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Rusty Edges

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Posts posted by Rusty Edges

  1. Angles = Age?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    At 56 years young some of my old customs are becoming unrideable...

    The modern boards are wider and much better construction/shape/design for flex.  As much as I like 65/60 on my old a Hot Blast 170.  The more relaxed angles are easier for all day riding.

    Softboot carving at 27/15 lets me ride all day.

    Snow soon...

     

  3. 23/24 Board Porn

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Rude Boy!!!!!   RIP Terry Hall.

    I saw the Specials at the Commodore in Vancouver back in 2019.  Opening night of their tour.   

    I've never seen such a tame Mosh Pit.  A full house of 40 and 50 Somethings.  The entire crowd was channeling their teenage skate punk.  The outfits were spectacular!

    Thanks for the memory.

    ***First Refusal when you decide on a new board.

    • Like 1

  6. How does your Softboot carving affect your Hardboot carving?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I think soft-boot carving will make you stronger at both. 

    Despite plastic inserts and power straps there is a great deal more strength involved in smooth consistent soft-boot carving.  The foot/ankle support just isn't there.  Your whole body is involved in the soft boot deep carve, see Korea/Japan "Carve Yoga".  This translates to a much more controlled and efficient carve when I return to hard-boots, but sometimes more rigid.  Conversely.  When I feel my hardboot carving becoming lazy, I switch back to soft-boots for a few runs or days to remind myself of the finesse and extra muscle control required for smooth clean carves. Does a run count if your skidded a turn???

    It is a different carving experience.  Longer free-carving and race hard-boot boards can blast through imperfections in the groom with a somewhat locked-in edge carve.  But this edge can be difficult to get off of quickly.   Whereas the soft boot carving board require a more dynamic style to absorb or quick edge changes around obstacles and the inevitable "two-planker"...

    I agree with the wipeouts.  Soft-boot carving wrecks seem to be less punishing on the body than hard boots.  Although, it may be the change in board size.

    I've been on hard-boots at my local bump since they allowed snowboards.  I get more questions from the regulars when I'm not in hard boots or on the longest "plank" on the hill.

    Snow soon...

    Cheers, Trev

    • Like 1

  7. Softboot carvers: mainstream vs custom

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    My go to every day ride is the Amplid Pentaquark 160 model.  It can do it all.   The Amplid Surfari has my interest and has gotten great reviews but there are few in north america to demo...

    If I know it will be corduroy all day I go with the Endeavor Hammer Head 163.  I wish I could find the smaller version for smaller hills and busy days.

    Snow Soon....

  8. Alpine skateboard

    in Summer Carving

    Posted

    You might try to track down some mountain board wheels.  CarveBoard  made near slick pneumatic tires/wheels as well.

    I have a BMW Street Carver or a Loaded surf skate for when the urge to carve on the street raises its head...

    Strapped to that board in hard shells is another level.  Pics/Video or it didn't happen.

  9. Thanks to Sean over at Donek - Forward Lean Adjustment

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I find that more forward lean in both boots makes my ankles feel more locked in without excessively tightening my boots or binding straps. 

    To counter the forward lean I have toe lift on the forward binding and heel lift on the rear binding at 60 - 55 angles.  This also has the side benefit of allowing a wider, more stable, stance.  The trick I have found is having both knees centered laterally on the board.  This seems to balance any toe side - heel side bias. This has been my starting point for years with little adjustment required.

    Your mileage may vary...

  12. My Introductory period on Alpine snowboarding (Need some tips)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    All good points above.  Link one turn at a time, carving back up the hill to control speed.  The transitions will come as your comfort zone expands.  Read and reference The Norm.

    One thing to think about on transitions is to show the base of your board to the uphill riders during transitions.  This ensures you are on edge early and in better control as you cross the fall line.  The description above of "pouncing" on the turn is a great hint. This technique requires an amazing amount of faith that the board will catch you before you Face Plant (or Butt Plant).  But it will do wonders for controlling the run-away train that is your first carving experience.

    Stick with it.  There is no shame in throwing in the odd "Slarve", even the best do it occasionally.  Just know when to stop and begin again if the run turns into too many slarves in a row.

    Always, always, always, take a look up the hill before you begin and during any toe-side carve.  Straight-liners can appear out of nowhere...

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  16. Waterborne surf adapter?

    in Summer Carving

    Posted

    I broke down and picked up a Loaded/Carver Bolsa with the CX trucks.  The Bolsa seems to have a much lower ride height than the same size carver decks.  The wheel wells are integral to the deck concave.

    What a blast to ride!  I've always wedged the front trucks on my skateboards to create a more surfy style but never have achieved this level of turn.  I redrilled the forward truck holes to extend the wheel base another inch.  Riding bowls is now like an overhead day in the water...

    Great leg training for the coming winter season.  The surf skates make you ride loose with lots of up and down weighting. 

  18. Minds in the Water

    in Summer Carving

    Posted · Edited by Rusty Edges

    There is no load on your back because there is no harness.  Like all sports though, you need to engage your core muscles.  Riding toe side may be uncomfortable for some, due to the twisting, but I figure most here have developed exceptional core muscle stability from alpine carving.

    Actually, once up on the hydrofoil there is very little load on your arms either.  Some riders, myself included, use a very small belt harness with hook and harness line on their wing for long tacks to allow for better drive through your feet and better upwind angle. The harness is not needed,  and discouraged, when learning.  When it comes to playing on the windswell or waves the wing will sit nicely in a neutral position held by the leading edge handle.

    While learning you will get alot of arm fatigue.  Once you learn to relax your hands your sessions will get much longer.  You don't need a "death grip" on the wing. I often find myself riding with just two or three fingers on the handles.

  20. Minds in the Water

    in Summer Carving

    Posted · Edited by Rusty Edges

    You start on a larger board.  Your weight in Kg plus 15 to 20 litres.  Then progress to something this size or smaller.  Ride Engine 5'0"/80 litre with Lift Foils 250HA hydrofoil.  At 85 kg this board just supports my weight.332851966_RideEngine.JPG.0a96bfd415d512cacf706c6d5afe2a25.JPG

    • Like 3
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