kibber
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Posts posted by kibber
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13 hours ago, Hug Masso said:
Thanks! Are Rc11 and Rc12 considered recreational? In upz webpage it says for both: Racing/freecarve. The RCR are racier or just the newer version of the RCXx? Thanks for the priority order!
The point is to know not just the mondo sz but the mm/last when comparing brands or models. I do not know subtle differences between RC11 and RC12, the ‘12’s may be a year newer than 11’s(?) and I’m sure either could be modified to your desire; liner/boot tongue/spring. In my experience, overall, deeluxe seem to be higher volume w larger heel cup — not good for my skinny feet. When I bought the UPZ AT8’s a month ago (as my “soft boots!”) from CB Utah (Chris, UPZ North America) I was lucky enough to try them on with different liners and noticing the volume difference.
This has been a great thread, you have enough info to make a good decision, and ultimately, you just won’t know for sure until you’ve got on ‘board w new boots and made a few fitment tweaks.
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On 3/26/2024 at 9:42 AM, Hug Masso said:
Ok guys before asking some more particular things for what you said let me ask a concern I have. I have heard Deeluxe have larger toe box and narrow heels, while is it opposite one UpZ. I havent had major inconvenience or pressure points in the Deeluxe apart from a major bit intense pressure point in bot the 700 and the Free 69, which is a quite usual pressure point, but that is neither toe or heel related, and its this point:
I know a bootfiter could adress that, but i’d rather have it right without touching the structural rigidity by punching the boot inside. So now the important question: would you say UPZ is wider at this point? My feet are quite neutral, except for a bit of wider feet at this middle section. That would be so nice to know. Apart from that, yes my toes get a bit crunched on the Deeluxes.
Yes, I will do that! Thanks for all the other advice! I have the choice of the RC11 or RC12 for 450€, so both the same price. I have seen it is not so much a quality question but a rigidity one. Maybe for a freecarving scenario the RC11 is preferable? Also worth mentioning the RC11 is in neon green and they look quite ace, while the RC12 are all black.Yes, the broken bolt is in the rear foot. But if I buy the UPZ, I will proably ditch the Track 700…but once I find a lockable T Nut I will put it in the front foot as you say, thats quite a clever idea, didnt know the rear foot received more pressure. This is the picture of the Rc12,s
as I said, I can have for the same price the RC11, which look dope
, but curious to see which is more convenient, those are the Rc11:
Finally, as I asked before, the canting assembly on the Deeluxe NON-700 I showed in the last post, do some of you guys happen to know if the circular cant assembly is more durable? I hope my Free 69 last some time…Copy of my post re: “downsizing” applies here to. Ask your UPZ person if the RC12’s and RC11’s have same “mm” specs on shell.
There is not a direct relationship between mondo point and volume, different brands or different models within a brand can have different volumes with same mondo point. Within models of UPZ, generally speaking, race boots have less volume than recreational. I have two brand new pairs of UPZ boots; 2023 RCR’s and 2024 AT8’s, mondo point on both boxes say “25,5”. The mm/last #’s say 258/279mm, 266/287mm respectively. I have thinnest intuition race plug liners in RCR’s and intuition M-volume Luxury liners in AT8’s. How can same Mondo have different volumes. because! that’s why.
Doing a shell fit w bare feet is Priority 1, then determining proper volume liner is Priority 2, then addressing any special fitment w arch, weird toe/foot shape, skinny/big shins, whatever, P3.
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There is not a direct relationship between mondo point and volume, different brands or different models within a brand can have different volumes with same mondo point. Within models of UPZ, generally speaking, race boots have less volume than recreational. I have two brand new pairs of UPZ boots; 2023 RCR’s and 2024 AT8’s, mondo point on both boxes say “25,5”. The mm/last #’s say 258/279mm, 266/287mm respectively. I have thinnest intuition race plug liners in RCR’s and intuition M-volume Luxury liners in AT8’s. How can same Mondo have different volumes. because! that’s why.
Doing a shell fit w bare feet is Priority 1, then determining proper volume liner is Priority 2, then addressing any special fitment w arch, weird toe/foot shape, skinny/big shins, whatever, P3.
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If you put silver tongues in the rc11’s you may not tell the difference regarding stiffness.
Red-soft,Black-flexy, Silver-Stiff, Gray-XStiff.
I like hot lime yellow, too.
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1 hour ago, Hug Masso said:
You guys are very nice and knowledgeable. @kibber thank you for the metal sealing washer recommendation. For now, the bolt you see in the picture is just screwed onto the “female” piece I had left in the second picture of the initial post, but it is not locked, which would mean it will unscrew at an unknown pace, which means for now I don’t trust it to go on the hill with it. As I said, surely there is some type of “lockable” bolt, I’ll look into that. Thankfully, I have another pair of boots, the Deeluxe Free 69 (yes the banana coloured renamed Deeluxe 225/325). But the cant assembly is quite different, it seems only the 700 lineup have the half moon thing. Now, do these 225/325 cant assembly tend to fail also? Let me illustrate with a picture.
Now, talking about UPZ, I see I can buy a RC11 or RC12 in a spanish website, for 450€ (aprox 480 USD). That seems quite a good price, and I’ve read good things about those 11/12 UPZ, specifically that the buckles are improved compared to other older models of UPZ. Would you buy it? Regarding sizes, I have a 28,3-28,5 mondopoint feet, and been using the Track 700 in euro 44, which had a little too much room, and have the Free 69 in euro 43. The sizing of the UPZ around my mondopoint is either Uk 8,5-9,5 (this is one size) or the immediay upper size is 10-11. Now, my uk size is between 9,5 and 10, which theoretically leaves me in between boot sizes. I know it is better to have less room and a thinner liner, but 9,5 UK is 28 cm MP, and thats the upper maximum range of the 8,5-9,5 size, so dont know what to do. Any recommendations?
Thank you!
Apart from the buckles, any downside to the UPZ? I don’t mind spending the money, but would like to have boots that last for years!
Yes, let’s see what you recommend me for the UPZ sizes. Been looking around, seems 450€ for a RC12 is very very good.
Try thread-locker on that female piece, ie Blue Loctite. Curious, is broken cant on rear foot? (which tends to get more force). Maybe switch cant w other boot and put washer/bolt on front foot. Re UPZ RC12’s. I assume newer version with Hinge Tongue (not the double bolted tongue) since you mentioned newer buckles. picture?
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You are a long ways from Donek
..that looks pretty good. good enough to get back on hill; for how long? I don’t know!! Looks like you found a bolt to fit the inside metal piece? (nice).
A rubber/plastic/urethane washer or something to interface w cuff is a good idea, it will delay the inevitable! Ask your fastener supply store about a metal-bonded sealing washer (see picture). I used Deeluxe boots for ten years, now use UPZ’s since five years ago.
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Deeluxe boot parts are sold on Donek website. If hardware store, T-Nut/Fender Washer/pan-head bolt w locktite.
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On 3/23/2024 at 8:39 AM, gawdzira said:
Before I got my Trench Diggers (after 20 years on a pair of Cateks) I tried the F2 step in and freaked out because of the lateral movement. I was scared it was about to release. Maybe I need to learn to embrace the movement and try the F2 again on my future twin tip.
..I agree, and still feel same. I prefer TD & Catek for carve-only boards with feet angles 50+°.
Yesterday I had my SLSHR & Donek/twin out in stormy 4” new conditions, and adjusted angles to be 38°rear/44°front w F2Ti/inTecs.
Having a bit of lateral flex is GREAT w softer angles. The newer F2Ti’s also have toebail height adjustment.
Anyway, Yes, do it, try it, you’ll find a happy Plate/Twin combo.
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11 hours ago, snowburn said:
@Kibber your slashr looks awesome! Not to threadjack but please give us specs
LUV my SLSHR! new this season after MCC demo last year (‘23)-with a couple mods, of course! 172cm (floor to tip) 28/22waist/26.5. metal, square/round nose, average SCR 9m, stance setback apprx 5cm. I modified my Contra topsheet design/colorway to be “SLASHR”.
(stock slasher is scr 8m / 165).
Back to Topic! Gawdzira, I (too) struggled w adding softboot set ups to my all mt, pow, carv options for two seasons; never liked it as much, so ended up w two sets of hardboots/bindings. “race”stiff and “flexy”soft.
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what BlueB said
not All “hardboots” are the same. My “softboots” the last 3 years have been Deeluxe325’s (a shell size big) w intuition luxury liners (thick high volume) and softest bts spring kit. F2 RS Bindings.
Donek Hazelwood 175 twin tip (directional) w early rise front, 24cm waist, 45/40 angles. May sound “long” but the effective edge and camber is low, it wiggles just fine!
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1 hour ago, Shred Gruumer said:
Whats the board look like...year and condition...hmmm. Ha
Not for sale, I luv this board early season, and would help a starving student carver/beginner racer. It’s all black, ptex topsheet w hot yellow “nobile” 5-ish yr old.
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25 minutes ago, boardguru said:
Do you also have furry moon boots to complete that outfit?
I allocated ‘moon boot resources to a better (and intimidating) brain bucket ; )
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On 3/12/2024 at 7:41 PM, lordmetroland said:
My god man, she may have needed your help! Were there any other signs that she was hopelessly trapped in the 90s? Was she humming Ace of Base songs? Wearing Vuarnets and Roffe stretch pants? Maybe her hair didn't move in the wind? Think, damnit, think!
did I hear Roffe?!
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1 hour ago, nicholaswmin said:
Ok, this is getting somewhere.
So my current problem is that I have too much pressure building-up on it's own by doing my up-unweighted, cross-over turns. The pressure build-up happens in the bottom-half of the turn. It's an unavoidable result of my momentum. I'm forced to absorb it.
The solution is the following:
- Down-unweighting and cross through, early.
- Crank some edge angle
- Extend/Pressure that edge myself, by a lower-body extension.
The down-unweighting puts me low hence more balanced but most importantly it affords me the range of movement to extend and create pressure on the new edge.
So instead of riding the turn like a passenger and the pressure building up on it's own, I simply pressure the edge myself earlier.
Am I on the right track?
yes, I think so (imo); hence some amount (discreet, some, pronounced) of “drift” to pressure sooner, begin direction change sooner, control speed sooner.
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hope to explain this good enough, but I take away some of the transition/acceleration on steeps by unweighting enough to swivel tail a bit; ie, board is 90° perpendicular to fall line, or even acute on uphill side (turning uphill) when completing a turn, then swivel/set new turn-edge at 45° pointing downhill (racers do this). Granted, not as pretty as less-steep, “C” shape rolls into next turn. Also, I stay low the whole time on steep terrain. Great topic.
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On 3/7/2024 at 8:37 PM, pcABQ said:
i'll be near big sky riding march 23 - 26.
i'll have a carving board and at least one pair of skis.
let me know if you want to make some turns.
pc
If you happen to find yourself at Grand Targhee during your northernly travels, gimme a shout (will you have the Cntra172 w You?).
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10 hours ago, lamby said:
Great to see the GFC out rippin' with Jer!
Jer’ is a new person!! sidelined w hip issues, got dr clearance six weeks post surgery, now he’s arcing his ‘Burners & 185 Kessler again. Amazing!!
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On 2/25/2024 at 11:53 AM, ExcelsiorTheFathead said:
Do the Bali carvers still ride there?
I’m not privy, who are the Bali Carvers? ..are they surfers, too?!
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It is beyond-perfect carving right now at the ‘Ghee. Fri afternoon Mar 8th I escaped work for 6 runs and saw two younger dudes (HB&SB) just killin’ it; we connected for a few runs. The HB kid was on an older F2 SL board w TD1’s and ski boots, 65/60 angles and linking S’s on steep terrain; carving for a year. impressive. Love to see younger people gravitate to ‘board carving. I’m loaning these punks my Nobile 166 and Coiler 169, plus my retired boots—we all have same size feet. Come carve the Ghee.
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11 hours ago, inkaholic said:
If sticking with those binders and worried about it happening again, drill a hole in the plastic lever and put a cord through it long enough to go under your toe buckle on your boot. You'll have to undo it to get out and redo it at the top but you'll have peace of mind while riding.
ink
fyi... old racer trick when bindings weren't so good.
..the ol’ trick w Emery’s & SnoPro’s.
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and/or may need to adjust cant on rear boot in a bit, or add 3° inward cant on binding (if flat); your stance width, angles, may be preloading some unnecessary forces, taking away flex range of binding. I dink w this shit so much just to feel neutral with all settings. It’s really scary to have a hardboot release, sounds like you’re not hurt…glad for that. I hope any comments from the group help.
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RS is too flexible for the demand. I only use RS on my powder ‘board. RC10’s12’s, RCRs, buckled for carving, firm cord’ can transfer a big moment of force.
..are the heels on your boots worn? might need replacing.
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I have for consideration: Nobile 166 Ti, UPZ RC10’s (25.5/279mm) w hinge tongue & rcr box & optional finTec heels. maybe bindings. sent you pm.
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The Goofy Footed Contra-band is at Sun Valley Feb 25-28 with Jerry. Carving conditions look very good for Sunday, maybe some fresh frosting Monday, sunny again Tue. Any other ASB’s visiting?
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Downsizing Boots
in Carving Central
Posted
CB, I’m so happy and perfectly “there” with everything; boots, bindings, boards for ANY terrain, snow conditions. It all starts with boots; happy feet = comfort, warmth, performance. It only took me thirty years! Thank You for the time,xtra effort,demo.
RCRs w CatekTribute/TD3SWs/F2Ti’s
AT8’s w F2RS or Ti’s