[2016-2017 New Board Porn (new purchases)]

On 12/29/2016 at 6:36 AM, neanderthal said:

Does it carve?  yea but

Its ridable if you are searching for powder and need to ride some groomers to get there.  You can carve but the effective edge is so short dont plan on being aggressive or leaning very hard to the front or back.  There really isnt much of a tail so if you lean back in a turn here comes a skid.  On this board the carve is pretty much right between you feet. In short it is possible to really carve some turns but quite tiring tipping a 26cm waist & the turns are more of a side to side leaning that is not nearly as fun as loading the nose of my coiler and popping the tail at each transition.  

I picked up a Hovercraft early this year and rode it for the first time at Big Sky 3 weeks ago. Mine's a 152. There was very little powder, but the groomers were good fun. I was using a soft boot setup with Union Atlas bindings on the Hovercraft.  By mid morning, the runs were tracked and somewhat bumpy, but I got a good feel of how it was on edge.  It  handles groomers well, maybe even better with a HB setup.

 

[Toe/heel lift & cant]

Thanks. Tried the tweak-o-matic link, but didn't open. 

 I can understand the benefit of the front toe/rear heel lift, and the need to experiment to find what works for me. Regarding canting, it seems there's some who use outward cant while others use inward cant....?

I like the idea of fabricating shims from plastic cutting boards. I was thinking of using rigid fiberglass but gets messy.

 

 

[Toe/heel lift & cant]

The span of my toe and heel block is 236mm, and my F2 is a step in. Since  the heel rests on the pins,  the  heel is actually slightly elevated above the block, that lessens the angle a little.  Thanks for the rule of 60.

Wheather you use lifts and cants, or not, shouldn't your neutral stance be comfortable? (given your binding setup, stance, angles etc. are correct).  Lifts/cants help to achieve that right, while at the same time increaseing edge hold?

 

 

 

 

[Toe/heel lift & cant]

Just out of curiosity, what is the angle/degree of lift achieved using the biggest F2 shim? And if the large shim is used to create heel or toe lift, is it necessary to shim the opposite end of the binding, to compensate for the angle of the boot?

[Toe/heel lift & cant]

   I use F2 Intec Titanium bindings. Can I change the cant and toe/heel lift, without using the stackable shims provided with the bindings? There's only fewi shims so it's not very versatile.    

    If my stance and binding  angles are good, how do I determine lift and cant?

[ATC 2017 Accommodations]

Option closed. 

[ATC 2017 Accommodations]

I'll be attending the 2017 ATC. Looking for someone willing to split the cost/share a house or condo in Aspen. 

[So what does people ride? **SURF**]

I've shaped my own boards since high school, it's a great hobby. What I like to ride is a fish, or variations of fish shapes, between 5'2 & 6'0. They all usually have a single concave in the bottom to a double going out the tail, with quad fins. They can handle most anything up to double overhead, just gotta control the speed.

[2 Minutes at Big Sky]

Nice. Which runs were you on?

[Carving on regular snowboards]

For what it's worth I ride a Arbor A-frame regular board w/ Catek world cups and Deelux 225's.  I'm not a great carver but I go all over the mountain in all conditions with this set up. My home mountain is Mammoth and i am comfortable on the double blacks, powder, moguls, groomers and I even jump a little.  I am lighter (135 lbs and 5'9") but the A-frame is stiff enough to handle the torque and still be very versatile. I've been riding this set up for close to 8 years.

Sent Yesterday, 10:58 PM

. I have a chance to get an A frame. I haven't demo'd one, so I don't know how it handles. I have a pair of 225s, but I'm going with a soft boot setup first. You must like the setup if you've had it for 8 years. I read one review that said the A frame is for experts only.....?I weigh about the same as you. What size board do you have?

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[Softbooter looking for bindings recommendations... maybe a board too]

I ride a 154 Flux, Sean custom built it to my size, 135 lbs, size 7 boot. My current binding is K2 Force. I'm thinking of getting a stiffer binding. El Hefe, Union Force or Atlas, maybe the Now O-Drive. Seems like there's a lot of riders using the El Hefe, how much difference can I expect from a stiffer binding?

[Tail washes out on a heel side carve.]

Back on the snow in 10 days.

[Tail washes out on a heel side carve.]

If your setback and stance is wrong, you'll be compensating for the way the board behaves, given unintentional inputs.

 

Initial setback setup (assuming highback is proper, and binding offset is optimized):

 

On a relatively flat slope, commonly referred to as 'the benny hill', ride on one foot across the hill at a shallow angle.

Do this both toe and heel side, standing casually, with hips/shoulders in line with front foot.

If the setback is sufficient, the board should track 'clean' on both edges.

If the setback is not sufficient (too far ahead) the board will probably try to spin and 'wash'.

If the setback is excessive, the board will track, but will probably 'come around' slowly (both feet in, easy turning), especially on the toe side. 

 

If you're doing 'almost nothing', so too should your board.

 

As to the timing thing, as you exit your toeside, try to feel edge contact develop under your rear heel slightly before your front heel. The net effect should have you standing on both feet, rather than with a front foot bias as the turn comes around.

Try this on easy terrain first.

There are a few other considerations, but that should keep you occupied for a while.

I'll try this the next time I'm on the slopes. Thanks

[Tail washes out on a heel side carve.]

So, if my set back and stance is wrong, I'm probably working against my board. The binding angles are easy to adjust. But

what's the rule of thumb for finding the correct setback? Yes, timing needs improvement. Until I can link up with an instructor,

I'll be learning by trial and error.

Thanks for the input.

[Tail washes out on a heel side carve.]

I have a 155cm Flux, with a soft boot setup. This weekend was the first time I rode the board, the runs were groomed. The board performed well for the most part, but there were times when the tail would slide out when I'd do a heel side carve, usually at the bottom of the turn. The front bindings are set at 16 degrees and the back at 5 degrees. I'm looking for some advice so I can correct this, I think it's either my setup and/or my technique, or both.

Thanks.

[Carving in Hakuba Japan]

Does anyone know if there is a carving instructor or a group that carves , in Hakuba, Japan (Happo One)?

[Soft Boot Board]

Talked with Jim at BoL. I did considered the Incline but decided on a Flux at 155cm.

Thanks Jim.

[Soft Boot Board]

It's definitely different than anything you'll find in a store.

160 cm.

8.7m radius

30.5 cm waist (not a typo)

220 lbs rider

8.5 boots (squeeze into that size to have less toe and heel drag cuz I ride low angles).

*Extra: I modify my bindings quite a bit.  For years I had certain pain in my legs from hitting jumps and riding pipe all day (I've even made finals of the U.S. Open in pipe b4)... so I started adding extra padding and making my highbacks taller.. and now they are so padded and high that on heelside turns I feel like I'm laying back in a lazy-boy couch.  :)

Ryan's incredible, he proves that even a 30cm wide board can carve well with soft boots. I'm no where near his level.

I'd consider one of your boards Sean. Do you have any demo boards that are less than 160cm, 26 cm waist? With a flex that'll work for a 135 pounder. A custom board is beyond my price point.

[Soft Boot Board]

Thanks, I was wondering about that wideth. My friend says he rides them with Cartel bindings, and he probably sets them at more than 35 degrees. And he's much taller.

Has anyone got any experience with the Hovercraft? Small side cut.

[Soft Boot Board]

Ok. It's somewhat like surfing, you want to start out with a board that'll make it easier to learn the basics, then move up to a more advanced shape and size. At 5'6, 135 lbs., I don't have the mass to manuveur a long board. I'd like to find a board with good turn initiation and edge hold. A friend has loaned me his Burton coil to try out, 165cm X 21.5cm waist, haven't been on it yet. Seems big to me.

I know Sean at Donek can custom a board for me, but I was hoping to find something more immediately.

Also, is it true that:Camber between the bindings is good?

It's ok to go short and stiff, or longer with more flex in the nose?

Thanks for your reply.

[Soft Boot Board]

I ride a 152 K2 Raygun, it's a fun all round board but limited in the carving department. I'm looking for a good startup directional snowboard to learn carving with soft boots. I do more resort, groomers riding, not so much off piste. Is the Arbor A Frame or the Jones Hovercraft too much board to learn carving on?

The AFrame is pricey. Swoard Dual? Pricey too.

I'd appreciate any advice.

Thanks

[F2 Bindings and Burton Coil Board]

Thanks Neil, that gives me some ideas.

[F2 Bindings and Burton Coil Board]

I have a Burton Coil board. The 3 hole mounting inserts don't lineup exactly with the F2  4 hole system.  Is there 3 hole center disc or an adapter I can get for an F2 Intec binding setup on a Burton board.    I can  modify the F2  center disc to fit the Burton 3 hole system, but I wanted to ask if anyone's done that before.

 

Thanks

[F2 Intec Titanflex- Any Opinions?]

I'm picking up on this posting late.

 So, I'm  a beginner, and I'm considering a step in binding for the convenience. Is the F2 Intec Titanium stiffer than the Intec Titanflex? Or is the Titanflex more binding than I should start off with?

[**Donek Pilot for sell**]

Do you still have the Pilot for sale?