Calle
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Posts posted by Calle
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5 hours ago, b0ardski said:
surprised you didn't go over the bars on that one
Surprised i managed it aswell
I think the explanation is that i am twisting going from toeside to heelside because of not wanting to end up in the trees
So much of the momentum is towards the camera and the nose is just scraping snow until the edge gets enough grip.
Also the hill goes from crest to quite steep so the pressure on the nose seems to be decreasing from pic 2 to 3.
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More spray or trying a bit to hard
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When i rode softboots i forced the knee inwards on heelsides. It was the way i found out worked to get the hip over the board for heelsides with the low angles. Never felt any problem with the knees. More that the gear i was using was inadequate. Might not have been correct but it was before youtube etc. and worked.
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The riding looks solid but when comparing your video with videos of riding i'd want to imitate it looks too controlled or easy. I want more speed, more fall line (less carving across the hill), more power, less static riding the turn until speed bleeds out and faster edge changes.
When you achieve this you are probably a world cup rider but anyways
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So board arrived, a little narrow waist for my taste, 196 mm or something. Looks like 0,5 mm titanal. No more inserts, just regular ones (the magnet trick doesn't work on any of my boards...) So looks like it's the older version (2016?) and the never ones got allflex inserts. Looks like a bargain.
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Have not received the board yet. Hopefully there is snow left
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I have a ++ model, Like it in powder but the lack of edge in the nose makes me fall on my ass going of the lift and it behaves somewhat nervous when carving it. My old F2 eliminator and Tanker carves much better.
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10 hours ago, guido591 said:
Any chance of more inserts hiding under the topsheet? The raceboars was obviously using allflex and also had a 5x2 insert pack on the pictures i have found. And then there's the "non race" which have 6x2 inserts?
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1 hour ago, Wolf said:
There was a forum thread about those here, but not a lot of information:
Some more info
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Just bought the board of Ebay. Can't find much info. Seems to be a modern shape and there seems to be titanal in it according to the internet.
http://i-carve.com/elan_ballistic_sl
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Some might have seen that the plate in question was cracked in several places. Anyways now its somewhat reparied and the duckbill is cut. No patience to make it look good.
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7 minutes ago, Lurch said:
@Calle what is the max stance width on those please?
I can check later maybe someone else knows. The Apex V1 has the least stance width atleast and i would believe the Bomber V1 is second and V2 has the most stance width. The apex is the only one limiting my stance at 51,5 cm. But more in the sense of the inserts beeing shifted to much to the front.
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5 mm V1 Version:
5mm V2 Version:
I have both the V1 version and the V2 version 5mm. There's no big difference but given the choice i would choose the V2. My apex plate i softer than both of the bomber plates. At 90 kg i prefer that one over the bomber plates. I would guess that all the 4 mm and light versions is based on the V2.
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3 hours ago, Corey said:
What's a V2? I only know 5mm, 4mm, 4mm Lite. The 4 and 5's look similar, but different thickness. The 4mm Lite had a narrower core and the wasp-waist cut into the top profile.
The V1 is the first 5 mm version. The V2 is the second 5 mm version. The V2 is softer and lighter with a different core and overall shape. The hardware is also modified and lighter, at least for the 4x4.
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Slight bend
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15 hours ago, jokew said:
I live in Stockholm so I usually go to Romme. Couldn't get much vacation in this spring unfortunately :/ so I have only tested the board in Romme and Orsa. Going to Italy in 3 weeks over a long weekend but If I don't improve fast I'll have to ski instead of snowboarding while I'm there.
As many have said probably a big beginner board for a narrow crowded hill as Romme. But it works just takes a little commitment (cant find any radius of the tantalus?). Not too far from Kungsberget then. I dont visit Romme as often as i'd wish.
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Will keep it this season, maybe cut it for next season. It performs better than my boiler plates as is anyway. Don't know how much is up to using UPM pattern VS 4x4 or the plate itself.
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Var åker du? (where are you based?)
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Was there a month ago, Nice place. The lift didn't look that dodgy. The resort opened in 1988 so nothing is super old.
A guess with the people going round is that there were a lot of tourists both with and without skis that never had seen snow going up just looking åt the view...
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The nose stiffness thing was what i thought. However not to the extent that they were built softer to utilize the duckbill.
More testing today. Somehow its atleast confidence inspiring charging through ruts and hearing the board hitting the plate and knowing theres more support for the nose.
Might be a good way of making it bend less in soft conditions?
Apex info on how to cut would be most welcomed :)
Apex X Plate Bumper Mounting Location
in Carving Central
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My guess is that it is because of the narrover axle spacing on the 4x4 plate vs UPM.
I had one of the first variations of doneks plate and it was to soft for 4x4 spacing so it bent forward over the front foot.
The Bomber plate was stiffer and moved the axles further apart and worked despite the narrower spacing but with the negatives of a stiff plate.
The first apex UPM which I still ride has a small amount of bending forward which you can feel when riding one footed depending on your foot placements over axles. It also bends in the middle until it cracks. I had to fix mine and installed bumpers under toe and heel like the never Apex plates.
So from that I would say that if your front foot/binding ends up too far forward over the front axle you want bumpers up front.
The 4x4 limitations in axle witdh might make the bumpers under toe and heel less important on the 4x4 vs UPM but might anyways be needed depending on hardware/plate?