J0hn
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Posts posted by J0hn
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I've been to SLC about 20 times in the last 15 years. I've only known the canyon to be closed twice when I've been there. If Little Cottonwood is closed (to Snowbird), Big Cottonwood (Brighton, Solitude) may still be open. It is possible to get stuck, but it's their business to keep those roads open. I've never worried about it. Staying at the resort is nice, but staying in town is cheaper. Do yourself a favor, park at the bottom and take the bus if the weather is bad.
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The fintec heels are not compatible with the aluminum heel receivers on the TD1. You'll need to get intec heels somewhere else. I've heard blue tomato in Europe carries them, but never needed to order from them, so I don't know.
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From the very first run, my FC felt very stable and balanced. At slower speeds, the board was very easy to point into whichever direction I wanted to go. It actually felt like I was on a 160cm board - it was that easy to turn at slow speeds. Very playful, smooth and docile. The board felt familiar and comfortable under foot, no surprises or strange quirks.
I have a similar board. I agree with everything you say. My impression is that the decambered tip and tail are what's causing the board to feel shorter than it is. With decambering, you've got a lot less pressure on the tip/tail at low edge angles compared to a traditional board. So it feels shorter by comparison. I wasn't expecting that when I first rode mine, and it felt weird. But I have really come to appreciate it. The board is much easier to control when riding a crowded cat track for example.
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Just a guess, but maybe the software in which these entries are written has spelling auto correct. The author may have misspelled and the software chose the wrong word? Of course my explanation isn't as funny.
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Cool thread. I recently started home brewing. The kits make it pretty easy to brew good beer. I did a brown ale which turned out really well. It's almost gone. I brewed a batch of Oktoberfest last weekend, so it's in the fermenter now. I also have some cider in a fermenter. That won't be ready until late June or early July. I'm not a connoisseur, so I can't describe these beers in great detail. But it definitely tastes better when you've brewed it yourself.
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I shaped these boards before the FLC boards were offered and they where the direction I wanted a free ride board to go. John I think you rode my personal board while I was out of town at a contest, I came home and noticed it had been ridden, Will n Dave played dumb! Good for you! I am glad you enjoyed it:biggthump
Sorry man, didn't mean to cause problems. I was a bit disappointed to find out you sold them all. That was the only one left, so must have been your personal board.
Maybe the FLC series are really just clone B^2's!
Any chance we could get the rest of the specs?
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This is a little off topic, but everyone seems interested. I spent three days on the B^2 (thanks to Will and Dave) and loved it. It's a 175 with a 21.5cm waist. It's got all of the latest technological goodness (metal, decamber, VSR) and sounds like a custom FLC to me. Unfortunately, hardbooter was sold out by the time I demoed. I was curious about the rest of the specs and emailed Prior directly. This is the response I got.
> Its a custom for Billy, twin tip style race board. carves backwards or
> forward with ease that's if you ride like Billy.
> side cut is 15/17 no taper. 21 on the waist as I recall.
> Chris
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I don't know if it's bad or not, but I get the same thing. It's actually a little calloused right there. In my mind I feel like I'm driving more with my front leg, but the bare spot is only on the rear leg.
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Sean can customize anything. I would just call or email him explaining where you're coming from and what you want to do with the new board.
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@queequeg
So you're saying you have a problem with premature ejection? :D
I wrote a long response and then deleted it. I think it boils down to doing whatever you're comfortable with. The method I described has prevented a few ejections over the years and has not failed me so far. I agree that visual verification is best.
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Vegetable oil sprayed on the boot soles nightly and allowed to dry will negate your problem as long as you don't take warm boots out in cold snow
I wouldn't think it was a good idea to spray oil on a plastic boot. Won't that make the plastic soft and gummy?
This is a problem with all bindings, as far as I can tell. With stepins it can be very dangerous as occasionally the pins will engage just enough to make it *feel* like you are completely in, when in fact you are only just a little bit in (because the snow on your boots/bindings is preventing you from locking in all the way. I had two ejections this past season due to that sort of situation. Always, always, always check the engagement of your pins before starting down your run if you are on (f)intecs.I always hop a couple of times to help with engagement. Then I twist my ankle from side to side to test it. If the binding is not engaged, it will pop out here, well before getting into my first turn.
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I know it's late in the season, but thought I'd put this out there.
I have a pair of TD1 step-ins with 3 degree disks and purple (medium) bumpers.
There is very little wear on the heel receivers.
Looking for $150+shipping.
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Have you had any experience with non step-in plates? Just wondering if you can compare. Mine can get jammed up exactly as you say and no binding is going to be immune to it. Trying to figure out if it's worse with the step-ins though. I can see where being able to stomp into them might give you more leverage, but I can also see the mechanism being more finicky.....
I have not used a modern standard bail plate binding, only step-ins. So I can't really compare. You would think that the ability to stomp would help clear the crud off, but you can't really stomp. You need to have your toe engaged with the toe bail first, so you only get a few inches of movement with your heel. That doesn't count as stomping.
I do get snow packed under the toe of my boot, and stuck to the toe block of the binding as well. But the heel seems to be worse. You get more efficient at scraping it off with practice.
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Hey, and welcome to BOL.
I have found this to be almost entirely dependent on the snow type. If it's cold, you should get very little snow sticking on the binding and heel of your boot. Even in deep snow, if it's cold, it usually brushes right off. If it's been warm and the snow is slushy or sticky, it can be a problem. But with practice, you get pretty good at scraping your heel on the heel receiver before stepping in. I've only had a real problem a few times when the snow was particularly bad.
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make sure you use protection!
A heavy coat of wax?
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So as long as your step-in heels are T-nutted, you're safe. Thanks for the confirmation. I am loving these boots so far.
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**Please note that Bomber Industries, Fin, or YYZKCanuck DO NOT support the use of UPZ boots with TD3 Step-in bindings or Fintec heels due to the lack of t-nuts on the heel and removable toe piece of the UPZ boot. Should I have an issue regarding warranty it may not be covered and any possible injury due to using this combination will be all my fault** :D
[..]
I obviously haven't ridden the setup, but I am expecting nothing but awesome results. If the UPZ toes rip off the heels will keep me in place until I stop.
I switched to UPZ boots this season as well. They fit much better than my old boots. I am basically riding the same setup as you are with fintecs and TD3s. I T-nutted the heels, but the toe pieces still use the stock screws driven into the plastic boot shell. I think the design is such that the screws only keep the toe pieces from sliding fore/aft, and do not support a load. But I have not removed them to verify. Has anyone removed the toe pieces? In any case, the load on the toe piece itself should not be any different with a step-in binding than a standard binding. So I am curious about your disclaimer. Is it necessary to T-nut the toe pieces too?
BTW, nice writeup. Thanks for the great description and pictures.
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I don't see the Hazelwood listed on Donek's website. But I stopped by the shop a couple of weeks ago and he showed me a 200cm board he calls the "Tanker Killer". Is that what you're talking about?
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I saw a few posts discussing old school asyms, so I thought I'd bump this thread.
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Donek Axis SOLD
I've got a Donek Axis (axxess) 172 that would probably work for you. Specs are on the Donek website. I'm looking for $150.
It appears that you don't have email enabled. Email me through the forum if you're interested.
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It appears that you're only reacting to what the machine is doing, not driving it. It doesn't seem like a realistic representation of the skills and motion that actually control a snowboard. It does look kinda fun though.
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Very cool board. I don't have anything to add about that particular board. I wanted to share a picture of a course I have. I think it is a '93 model, asym. Yours appears to be older. Boards have gotten quite a bit better since then. Do yourself a favor and buy something current. But it's nice to have a piece of history and appreciate how far the sport has come.
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SOLD
I've got a pair of Raichle/Deeluxe SB 423s, size 28, $200.
Please email me through the site if you're interested.
intec heels not included.
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powhound, I don't want to hijack the OPs thread, so I sent you an email through the website. Please respond and I will send you some pictures of the board and bindings I have for sale.
Left HANDED people look here.
in Carving Central
Posted
I have brothers who are identical twins. Both are right handed. One rides goofy, the other regular. No correlation at all!