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Beckmann AG

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Posts posted by Beckmann AG

  2. Catek users please read

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    52 minutes ago, lordmetroland said:

    I shudder to think what other "spare parts" might be found there...

    Maine is cold, but not as cold as Wisconsin.

    In order to find the Catek parts, I had to relocate a spotted elephant, a water pistol that shoots jelly, and a 'Charlie-in-the-box'.

    The fissile materials I keep in another location.

     

    • Like 1

  5. 6° front lift with UPZ boots and TD3?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Jack M said:

    Mountain Slope/Northwave were never compatible with Intec. 

    Coals to Newcastle. 

    10 hours ago, Jack M said:

    Considering the cost of boot molds, we are stuck with it for the foreseeable future.  Deeluxe achieves less ramp than MS/NW while being Intec compatible because the heel is in a more typical place. 

    Last I measured, MS/NW starts out lower than Deeluxe. I think it was a size 26, and they measured about 11, as opposed to the 9.7 degrees for the same size MS.

    You may have noticed that your MS have a removable foam zeppa, which means you can further reduce the ramp if you have access to a sander, or a clean section of asphalt and a skilled driver.

    Can't do that with the Deeluxe, on account of the boot board being incorporated into the shell to accommodate...

    the Intec heel.

    10 hours ago, Jack M said:

    But many riders and I report worse heel retention with Deeluxe.  Personally I will take the ramp with the better heel hold.

    Heel retention is better with the UPZ/MS largely due to shell contour in the ankle pocket. Both are shaped more like the aft end of a foot.

    The Deeluxe has about as much contour as the inside of a Quaker Oatmeal drum.

     

    • Like 3

  6. 6° front lift with UPZ boots and TD3?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    27 minutes ago, Carvin' Marvin said:

    ... why would they put all that ramp in the boot anyway?

    To accomodate the Intec heel module. There is no other practical reason for those boots to have so much ramp.

    Of course you can't change it, so you can't know whether or not the ramp you have is the ramp you need to ride to your potential.

    Instead, your potential as an athlete and rider is limited by a design concession.

    FWIW, internal ramp of the front boot on the front binding should be somewhere around +2,+3.

     

    Ski boots need a certain amount of ramp so that the bend in that platform can easily be concentrated 'ahead of center'. This allows the skier to hold the ski in reverse camber through the duration of their turn.

    Otherwise everyone on skis would be rolling over backward due to premature rebound.

    Snowboard hardboots and bindings should be configured to do the same. That might mean different internal ramp angles on each boot, depending on skeletal structure and movement philosophy.

    The highest function of ramp tuning/heel and toe lift is to ensure that the board sees a neutral pressure change along it's length when the rider moves through their range of motion, as they flex and extend their legs.

    More often than not, heel and toe lift are used to accommodate impractical boot geometry, or fashionable stance configurations.

    In general, if your equipment configuration is drastically different than the established norms, it means you're chasing the wrong variable, you have a structural anomaly, or you're trying to do something that nobody else wants to do.

    Yet.

    If ever.

     

    • Like 1

  7. Loon/WV Opening Days

    in New England

    Posted

    On 1/12/2021 at 9:36 AM, MR. JOHN DEERE ! said:

     

    I might have to invite myself up to the LOAF if I'm a solo act again. 

     

    Guy,

    Been waiting for you at the Superspreaderquad for weeks now. 

    What gives? Your fuel gel up or sumpin'?

  10. Heat mold Mountain Slope boots?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    5 hours ago, Grip said:

    Wide feet is the reason I want to heat mold the shells. Also just curious given how easy it is to do with so many grillamid ski boots.

    Grip

    Location:Maine

     

     

     

    FYI, my shop and boot tools are in the Carrabassett Valley, so get in touch if the liners don't fix your problem.

    • Like 2

  14. If you're still on Cateks...

    in Bindings and Subplate System Reviews

    Posted

    If you like solid, you've got three more steps to go.

    Replace the OS2 base with the OS1 base and eliminate the bridge piece.

    Replace the front bail and toe pad with one from a step in TD1 (probably won't happen on account of drill pattern). The hinged bails flex less than the formed bails, and the TD1 pad has more surface area.

    Then make yourself a new intermediate plate out of 3/8 stock, and use six jack screws instead of 4.

    BTDT

  15. Front side problem (likely setup)?

    in Carving Central

    Posted · Edited by Beckmann AG

    7 hours ago, pow4ever said:

    You did mentioned outward cant which it's on my to do list.

    Have had so many things on my mind that I totally forgot about that, and how that was probably related to the creeping tongue syndrome.

    Oops. Sorry about that.

    It's very possible that i had this problem all along but this season it seems to manifest in a way that make it much more bothersome. 

    In the context of higher performance boots and supported feet, there are fewer places for the effects of input error to leak out. And on actual ice, as you know, that's a problem. 

    You may find that with the rear binding and/or boot cuff tilted outward, you'll enter the toeside earlier,(more favorable leverage ratio at the back leg) the board will be less twisted in the toeside arc, and the toeside will sound more like the heelside.

     

    • Like 1

  16. Front side problem (likely setup)?

    in Carving Central

    Posted · Edited by Beckmann AG

    16 hours ago, pow4ever said:

    Now that i have some time to digest/crunch the experience.  
    the reason i "feel" i am not putting enough pressure toe side is because the speed are increasing(my perception; might not be reality).
    If i back off the pressure; i don't wipe out but had to slarve a bit to bleed off some speed (toe side only).

     

    The part that seems to be missing(toe side only) -- lack of reference point/feedback/modulating. 

    You mentioned the difference in sound between toeside and heelside. From your description, it sounds like the toeside is skidding, or at the very least, that edge is not engaging as well as the heelside.

    If your toeside speed increases, it means you aren't bending the board. That could be related to weight distribution, overall edge tilt, board twist, all three, or a player to be named later.

    If your heelside comes around as you like, then your front binding is probably mounted in a good place. If you feel the front boot tongue on the toeside before you feel the sole of that foot, you can be edging without actually bending the board.

    (As Alan suggests, figure out what's going on under your feet. When, where, what, etc.)

    Also possible that your feet are too far apart, so you hit the rear boot tongue before the front foot sole, then kink the board using the rear boot as a lever. This will give you bite, but a shallow turn radius.

    If your heelside is wicked solid, you might be holding on too long, setting yourself up late for the toeside, at which point you're catching up under adverse conditions with unknown confounders.

    Also possible that you could be weighting the front end of the board with your upper body rather than your core. This would give you some bite at the beginning of the turn, and then nothing in the second half.

    So, Options.....

    • Thanks 1

  17. Front side problem (likely setup)?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    49 minutes ago, pow4ever said:

    on the same run - heel side no problem.  keep on washing out on Toe side.
    This is not NE hardpack; this is ice ice baby....

    ...my toe side become WTF...
    It feels like I am not putting enough pressure or maybe too much pressure on the edge but it's not smooth and missing the "frame of reference"/feed back are gone.  It become taking a leap of faith.  Maybe it will hold; maybe it will not.

    Another data point:  the sound it make is dramatic different..

    front/toe side -- scratchy/loud 
    backside -- nice calming ice slice

     

     

    • Thanks 1

  24. Hardboot Carving worth watching

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    9 hours ago, Colozeus said:
    • Lagging outside shoulder on heelside?
    • Not enough articulation at hips which is why it looks like i'm just kind of tipping from one turn into another?
    • I should probably stack a bit more towards the nose and initiate the transitions earlier.

    Is the outside shoulder lagging, or is the board gradually getting ahead creating the appearance of a lagging shoulder?

     

    There is a prevalent perception that one needs to actually ‘get’ onto the nose of the board to initiate a turn. This is essentially false. Rather, one needs to remain in an effective location tip to tail as the board rolls from edge to edge, in order to make use of the bend that develops.

    Perception being what it is, it’s easy to mistake the pressure that develops under the lead foot  as something that needs to be sought by way of forward movement, rather than something that will develop if one is simply in the right place at the right time.

    So, as you enter the heelside turn, ensure that you have enough weight on the rear foot so that the board cannot rotate underneath you as the turn develops. This being a common byproduct of too much weight on the front heel, or merely initiating heelside edge engagement with the front foot rather than both feet.

    In order to engage with both feet, it's often helpful to find the heelside edge first with the rear foot.

    • Like 2
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