Jump to content

scrutton

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    874

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by scrutton

  7. FS; Donek Rev 175, Oxygen 160, 2 TD1 Step ins, 2 TD2s Step in/toe clip, and Fin-techs

    in For Sale

    Posted

    Everett,

    "Donek Rev 175 GS board, only about two months of riding and racing on it, still years of life left! Great board, rides exactly the same as my old SG 175, perfect for a lighter weight rider doing GS (younger guys and woman) and just ask Heather Hurd if it gets you on the podium at the Nor-ams and she will tell you yes!"

    Was the Donek Rev built for you or a certain rider of a particular weight?

    How much edge is left?

    How any grinds has it had?

    Any repair work done on it?

    Paul

  10. TD3 Improvement idea - a place for a leash

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Not sure how to pass on a pet peeve (cough request for product improvement) I have, so I thought I'd start a new thread.

    I just about love all of the improvements with the TD3's over the TD2's (such as ability to remove the binding from the board without disassembling it), the improved look of it also.

    One thing that ticks me off though, is the lack of a good place on the front of the binding to locate a leash. I use a thick Burton leash on all of my boards, a short leash that has a thick cord, and a thumb operated lever that expands a loop that can open/close. It feels secure and clips onto a tiny caribeener on my boot quite quickly.

    It's not possible to loop this through the front binding, as it's so thick, you end up having to size the binding out one size larger to be able to fit it into the binding, and you get some sloppiness with it done that way. I mean it's possible, just not ideal.

    On the TD2 binding, I found that I can locate the leash on the base plate, just underneath the front toe block; due to the way the toe block splits down the center there is ample room to be able to attach the leash to the base plate.

    On the TD3 binding, the toe block's split is no longer there, and the way I have mine set up, the hole in the base plate is covered up by the toe block. Doh!

    I could run a loop all the way to the heel block I suppose, although I'd rather not do that as it's awkward.

    How I have it configured at the moment is to disassemble the front bail, and loop the leash into it, and reassemble the bail, so only one line of the leash has to be in there. I then have to ensure that the leash stays down to the corner of the bail, in that small area where there is a gap in the boot/bail/toe block interface.

    All this got me to thinking, I wonder if the base plate could be made a little larger on one side, so that a place for a drilled out hole to accommodate a leash hole could be engineered. Just on one binding of course :-)

    Paul

  13. Heelside turns not finishing

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Some ideas to try/think about.

    - are you on the down-hill edge before you initiate the turn. It's helpful if you are.

    - get your weight on the downhill edge - for me, I like to hang my butt over the edge of the board

    - bring your toes up, this will angle your heel edge into the snow and initiate the turn a lot earlier than you would otherwise.

    - extending your legs mid-turn (after you have started railing the downhill edge will increase your speed coming out of the turn and get the turn performed in a tighter radius, as you'll start bending the board).

    Read the Norm article if you haven't already, or if the first point I make makes no sense.

  16. upz fit guide and experiences

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I downsized two years ago, and it was the best decision I'd made in snowboarding.

    Do a shell test if you can before you start down this path.

    I then went with custom formed insoles and zipfit liners. The insoles are great. The zipfits are a mixed blessing. More comfortable than the stock liners, but much harder to get into, as the cork moves around when you are trying to get your feet into the boots. My latest strategy is to take the liners out of the boot, put the boot in walk mode, put liners on feet, then put liners+feet in boot. This works well. I've tried lots of other methods and this works best; and I've chosen to do this rather than revert to the stock liners.

  19. Was buying or riding a Plate worth it for You?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I have purchased a 4mm Boiler plate and a 5mm Boiler plate. The 5mm feels like too much isolation for me; the faster you can run it, the better things get though - I can see it being quite usable out West, or on a large fast race course.

    I prefer the 4mm plate which seems to have the right amount of flex for me. I weigh 225-230 lbs.

    I have the 5mm plate listed in the classifieds.

    Paul

  20. upz fit guide and experiences

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Any resolution? You might want to consider custom insoles and liners. I have both, and now have barely any pain.

    My feet measure 100mm wide max. In about the mid foot.

    Some days my feet hurt for a few hours after I take them off.

    But 75% of the time they are perfect. So if my feet were any wider I would need shell work.

×
×
  • Create New...