I think that, in spite of the changes in equipment in the past ten years, it still requires less effort for the same degree of railing in a hard set-up versus a soft set up.
I'm making much of this comparison based on being out of riding for the past ten years. Got married, had kids, focused on rock climbing for awhile. The first thing I had to do this year was upgrade both my hard and soft boots. I'm now riding UPZ RTR hardboots (up from a set of old 1994 Raichle 727s) and Burton Driver X softboots (up from a set of Burton Comps). I was amazed with what a difference there has been in the past ten years.
I'm riding the Driver X's on a 1994 Burton CK Slopestyle (173cm) with 45/40 angles and in the soft spring conditions yesterday I was stoking my ego on a groomed run under a lift with a forearm in the snow on every turn. I left the hill wondering what I could have done with the UPZs however. Because I bought the UPZ's late in the season I've only had a couple of runs this year to try them out, maybe seven or eight turns total. But they were far better to carve on than my '94 Raichles 727s.
Back in the early nineties I used to think a hard set-up was required for serious carving. With the really laterally stiff "soft" boots I now see availiable, I question that assumption. I am fairly sure that the UPZ hardboot will maintain its stiffness characteristic far longer than my Burton Driver X boots. I also question whether a softboot will dig into serious hardpack the same way my hardboots have allowed me to.
Next season - new bindings. Need something with ratching straps for the softies and something metal and step-in for my 1995 Oxygen freecarving board.