Puddy Tat
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Posts posted by Puddy Tat
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If you don't know what your doing you can burn you house or garage down very quick. This past season a person in tahoe melted a bunch of friends race skis and almost lost there house (oh and he had to replace all his friends skis) . I don't recomend hot boxing unless you fully understand what your doing.
I think this goes for electrical work in general.
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From Tognar, which has a ton of info on waxing and tuning of alpine and nordic equipment. They indicate that hot boxing is used in epoxy repairs and also during normal waxing.
They suggest that
After hot waxing, leave gear in the box 15-20 minutes to allow the base to absorb as much wax as possible before you remove and let the skis/board cool before final scraping and brushing.
I looked into building one of these a while back, but haven't gotten around to it yet.
Cheers,
Dave
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Is it possible to make your own hot box to wax your boards with and is it easy to do and are there plans available to do this?Is using a hot box way better than just regular waxing with an iron? I seem to have to wax my board a lot because the wax wears off quickly although maybe with a hotbox it would last a litle bit longer?
Try here
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I think those might be the japanese models. I'm pretty sure they come in a blingy anodized gold.
They look sweet though!
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New contact:www.kaaneboards.com
We will start selling boards in one mounth from today 18-05-11
129, 139,youth.Adult 163, 172, 183, in two different widnes 18 cm and 19.5 cm and 3 different flex.
Surfing on an iPad and can't view your site.
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Glad you've joined us HBer's Stef1! Carving is so addicting. Welcome to the disease we are all afflicted with!
You'll know you're afflicted when you start wishing for snow in the summer, trolling YouTube for carving visa, and buying other toys that help simulate that carving sensation. I always start getting irritable and antsy around October.
Dave
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Wouldn't mounting bindings secure it to the board at the middle and allow the free ends bonded with d-sided tape towards the tip and tail to act as a stiffener/energy return system much like a leaf spring when the board decambers in a turn?
Dave
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Price drop.
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Bought my first longboard today.
Landyachtz Bamboo Dropcarve with Bear Grizzly 852 trucks and some Abec 11 BigZig 75mm 81a wheels.
Took it to the street out front and played around. Super fun, I could press into a carve without worrying if the board was going to skid out. I was quickly able to start leaning into the carves and really making it move around. Fun. Feels a little like doing fast ankle based carves. Looking forward to playing with this more this summer.
Now my daughter wants one too.
I need a helmet and some gloves so I can start playing a little on the hills around here.
BTW where do I go for technique advice on carving these things. A lot of what I know seems to apply, I can compress into the carve, and there is some upper body rotation going on, but it feels almost counter-rotational at the moment.
Dave
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Carbon is only bling when it is used as trim or in minimal amounts, then a marketing tool at best.
....
It ain't bling when its engineered by someone who understands its properties and how to apply them.
Not sure why you quoted me here... Re-read my post it is a play on words between graphene paper and graphing paper. I understand the benefits of carbon.
Cheers,
Dave
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lets not forget it's usually laminated in with kevlar, and if you're contagious, zylon.
incidentally i wonder if Frank has tried graphene paper yet.
Would make a nice top sheet but not sure about any beneficial properties it would provide.... Oh hang on you said graphene paper...
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softbootsailerathotmaildotcom
"No No I'm not buying it for me... I'm buying it for a friend who hardboots." ;)
Bob, you'll love this board.
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~$1,950 for family seasons pass including refund insurance in case someone gets wiped out and parking. Sunshine gets really crowded and there is a lack of parking.
Dave
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I really love riding my boards. I treat them well and wouldn't think of selling them - until I ride something that I like better. ;) Then the love affair is over for the old board. Divorce proceedings are usually quick and painless soon after. Luckily I've got a harem of 3 that keep me happy in all conditions I normally encounter. I change one at a time as needed.
You know your Monster is getting jealous of the glassy look in your eyes you have after spending a day with the NSR. And your NSR doesn't like to hear you reminisce about the good times you've had on the Monster. I think you need to separate those two before one of them accidentally falls over and gouges the others base. I want to help you out here so I'm offering to take the Monster off your hands and together we can stop all this jealousy once and for all.:D
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... Skier turns, looks up at me, and asks "are those ski boots?"That's probably the #1 question I get from skiers and snowboarders alike. Either that or they just assume they're ski boots. Very few people know that snowboard-specific hard boots exist.
I think I'm going to start responding to this with "No these are snowboard boots, ski boots are extremely uncomfortable."
Dave
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This thread has gotten way off track! Let's talk again about how men are a$$ets.
FIFY
(And rapidily diving for cover)
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I can't comment on the ATBs but I did have a set of 225s for AM use. I liked the softness of the 225s for AM but I don't think they would have held up for hard carving. I suspect i will have a similar feeling for the ATBs. Anyway, I'm ditching the 225s and buying a set of ATBs because the UPZ mold seems to fit my foot better.
BTW apparently the toe piece of this years ATB (10/11) had some problems fitting into a TD3. I don't know the specifics of how it didn't fit but Dan Yoja said this is supposed to be fixed on next years model. Dan also orders boots near the end of May so if you want to be gaurenteed a set in your size e-mail him sometime in May.
Dave
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All UPZ boots have the UPZ version of BTS built into the boot. That's what the spring mechanism is in the back. When the boot is locked in ride mode, the foward and backward flex is controlled by this spring mech, and the stiffness of the tongue you use (grey, black or red).
Dave
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... it can be very dangerous as occasionally the pins will engage just enough to make it *feel* like you are completely in, when in fact you are only just a little bit ... I had two ejections this past season due to that sort of situation. Always, always, always check the engagement of your pins before starting down your run if you are on (f)intecs.
+1 including the ejections. Rear foot early in the run. This is why I'd like to see the pins anodized a different colour so they stand out from the heel piece when they are engaged. It would make it easier to quickly see how much of the pin is sticking out. And even easier for other people around you to see if your pins weren't properly engaged.
I have lots of problems with this —*I think that it is the biggest area for potential improvement in alpine snowboard binding systems.+1
Honestly, nothing pisses me off more than ice in my bindings. It drives me crazy.+1 again.
Personally I won't go back to bails as i like the convience of step-ins and i can't touch my toes when i'm not in hardboots. But anybody new to step-ins needs to be aware of the issues. I realize we've be talking (F)intecs here but all of the systems have issues with snow accumulation. I can't comment on any F.A.S.T. binding problems, but I've seen a Physics with speed hooks release (premature eject-you-lation) due to snow build up under the toe of the boot.
Dave
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Prevents ice nipples over bolt heads
Yeah I thought of doing something like that with tape, but I am hoping if I just fill the slot with silicon (or a construction grade sikaflex) and smooth it flush with the top of the slot it might not be so noticeable. If the filler doesn't work I'll be going to tape like in your picture.
Of course this is all about my board having nice ethestics when it's sitting in a rack, as obviously nobody will see it when I'm standing on it. I just realized that all this talk about how the board looks when I'm not ridinng it makes me sound like a huge poser.
Dave
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Don't get me wrong I love the TD3s and Fintecs. I am in fact waiting for the Step-in version of the Sidewinders before buying a set of those bindings but...
My experience is that jams happen only in wet snow when it packs up under my toes. It makes it impossible to lower the heel flush and latch the pins.I agree with this. I can't comment on Cateks vs Bombers as I've only ridden TD3 SIs but I find the screw holes in the toe blocks fill with snow which under pressure turns to ice. Eventually this mounds up about 1-2mm and acts as a fulcrum against the boots toe piece then I can't get the heel to latch. Or worse it partially latches. stuff on my boot heel isn't ever an issue as it's easy to clean off. This toe block issue is annoying and difficult to tell when it is there as when viewed from directly above the 'mounding' isn't apparent. The same issue has occurred with both Deeluxe and UPZ boots. For me snow doesn't seem to stick to the rest of the toe block surface. I'm considering filling these slots with silicon next season to see if that prevents the problem.
Again I love my TD3s and Fintecs (I have 2 sets). But on future revisions it would be nice to see a plastic insert/cap for the toe slots that would help prevent this build up. That and I'd like to see the engagement pins of the Fintecs anodized into a colour that would make it easier to see at a glance how much of the pin was sticking through the heel receiver slot to verify proper engagement of the pin.
Cheers,
Dave
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those are the new universal step in bindings that can be used with any size boots and they don't require intec heels which makes it easier to swap boards with your friends, unfortunately the release date to the public has not been announced yet
Would mounting them on a B.S. Plate improve their performance though?
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See, being a west side girl, I would have probably thought your day at Louise was ridiculously icy and gone home early.
You're right of course seeing as Serge is from Quebec we probably could've sent him to an ice climb in the Canmore Junkyards, where he would've thought the conditions were slightly hard for this time of year. :D
Serge, drop another line if you are out this way next season. I'll try and get together and ride with you.
Cheers,
Dave
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Thanks for starting this thread. I'm in the same boat.
using and making a hot box
in Carving Central
Posted
The temperature control, fans and the required surrounding safety circuitry are all part of the electrical work on your box. Designing and building the hot box using failure assumptions so that you know how the system will react should a temperature sensor, fan or other system fail is also part of the electrical work. Also designing such that there aren't heat accumulations in areas of the box are part of the design and testing of the box prior to sticking an expensive ski into it. That being said a timer, heat source, thermostat, temperature sensor(s), fans and appropriate safety circuits isn't overly complex to set up.
Wax cycle times at appropriate ambient temperatures are I assume available somewhere, likely from the wax manufacturer and aren't safety critical, though they are more critical to performance of the board. Intuitively one would guess that a hard wax at room temperature likely has a higher melting point and would probably require a longer cycle time in the box to allow it to soak into the base. Personally I don't think this part of it is rocket science.
Dave