Puddy Tat
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Posts posted by Puddy Tat
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I saw these about three days ago. Personally I don't get it, it looks like a yellow Track 325 to me.
It'd be nice to see an actual new boot come out, not a recoloured, renamed version of an old boot.
Dave
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I think John is indicating in his original post that it's a completely different company with a similar name making snowboards.
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Turning of a truck is defined by the angle of the axis of rotation. It's an imaginary line that connects the center of the pivot and center of the bushing seat. It doesn't change when you flip the hanger. As I said before, the stanillity and how "keen" is the truck to turn, can chamge. Search the Silverfish a bit, there are tons of info on this, even some drawings.
Now, if the tail of the deck dropped a bit from flipping, that would increase the angle of the front truck and decrease the angle of the back by the same angle. However, that is the effect of changing the angle of the mounting plane thus affecting the angle of the bases (like wedging), not an effect of the hanger flipping.
Ok I've got what you're saying. And I'm starting to play with this a bunch as I'll indicate below.
Anyways I've got a Roe Triton on order from Stoked. I had selected a mermaid, then heard there was a new board so I ordered that in early August. It hasn't arrived yet as Roe builds things the way Coiler does, "Beautiful, quality boards that are pretty much a work of art but with longer lead times."
I'm amazed at the distance you can cover on a longboard. I've started commutting back and forth from work (about 9k one way) on the longboard. Last friday I did about 30k total on the deck it's nothing compared to what guys on pavedwaved are doing but I'm pretty happy with myself. I'm heading out tomorrow morning to have a go at doing about 30k continuous. The exercise is great I think I've dropped about 15-20 lbs and 2" off my waist. It helps take the sting out of the occaisional road rash when I realize I can count it as weight loss.
The tech side is fun to get into too. My board is a 2010 Landyatchz Drop Carve with bear grizzly 852 trucks running 82a O'tang Durians (purple). I've changed bushings, to try and stiffen the rear truck and soften the front, then I stuck an 840 grizzly (40 degree baseplate) on as the rear truck to make it less turny, and then I cut a couple of stainless steel plates to cover and strengthen the drop throughs so I could top mount the board on the trucks. All of this has helped the board ride better. I'm hoping the Triton arrives shortly because now that I've essentially got a topmount deck I'm considering starting to look into some wedging and de-wedging.
I agree with Boris and Neil. That changing the hanger angle relative to the ground or the deck (it's the same angle) is what makes a difference here. When I compared the turn angle of the trucks with the 40 degree baseplate on the rear and the 52 degree on the front, with pressure being put on the side of the board, the amount of deflection in the front truck was much higher than that in the rear. Thanks I get it now.
Anyways with all the tech side to explore and the fun I'm having riding I've almost arrived at the end of September and I'm not going bat**** crazy from lack of carving. My wife in particular is appreciating this.
Dave
Edit: It's Saturday and I managed to put 38k on the board in 3 hours 8 minutes. Mostly pumping, though there was a bunch of mixed pushing/pumping on the outbound leg due to a headwind. Looking forward to my triton getting here.
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I intend to do serious all mountain (but of course, require carving performance), however for hardboots I'm working with af700's, my idea was moving to a blue bts... (is it really too stiff still?)
PS: my boots are 24.5mp, so a 25cm waist would be way too wide...
My softboot setup is pitiful and will get me nowhere haha (boots are so broken down and board is wide for me). If I have to invest in new boots I may just sell everything and go softies only.... in which case, I am also looking for a good softies/bx board possibly! (I need to make up my mind!)
Yeah I went to the longer board because the 163 was a little soft for what I wanted when I got back on groom. The 171 is much stiffer which will definately help me when I get back onto groom, but I'm assuming I'll be taking a little bit of a performance hit somewhere else (tight trees for one). There isn't really a such thing as a board that will perform optimally everywhere, when I want to go nail big carves on open groomers I grab my Prior WCRM 187 with a set of UPZ RTRs at (65/60), when I want to tear up steeps/ pow etc, I go to the Donek I described above, when I'm unsure I go to my Coiler Sctubby and UPZ RTRs (oh god I just realized I'm slowly turning into a board whore).
I've got a mondo 28 foot so the 24.5-25cm works great for me. Though to be honest Sean can manufacture a board for you in pretty much whatever width you want. If you want a narrower Incline he can make it happen. The 24.5cm in a directional twin works for me because I can ride with slightly slacker angles (50/45) which make me a little more laterally stable and helps me save it when I'm getting kicked around by moguls, chop, landing weird, etc. As an added bonus if I want to sell the board it is possible to resell it as a softboot deck because it looks like one and is not overly narrow.
I can't tell you on the AF700s or the BTS. Deeluxe/Raichles don't work with my foot shape, and I've never had to personally use a BTS because the UPZ come with something similar already (though with admittedly less travel). I have installed BTS into my daughters hardboots (she's 10) with yellow springs and they softened the boot (in the toe to heel direction) substantially. She needed this so she could shift her weight forward and back on the board.
All of this being said I still use different boots for a hard carving day, than I use on AM. I pull the UPZ RTRs with black tongues and a thermoliner (stiffish?) out when I'm going to hit the groom because I want the support to drive energy into the board. I use the UPZ ATBs with black tongues and a thermoliner (really soft) when I'm going AM riding on the Donek. I tried the UPZ ATBs on my schtubby one day but was rather underwhelmed with the performance because I found the boot was so soft I couldn't transfer enough weight forward to get the nose to engage quickly.
I use different elastomers under my TD3s SI's (I have two sets) depending on what I'm doing. Hard carving I'm using a blue, AM I'm using yellow. I have a red set but haven't tried them yet (they may make it onto my Prior this year). I intitially stated with yellow elastomers and was pretty much blown away by the cushiness of the ride, compared to a direct mount binding, then after awhile I tried the blues. I got a bit of vibration back, but the board responded so much faster and it was so much fun to carve. So I relegated the yellows for AM use, where I want to be able to absorb chop, and left my blues on my carving decks, where I want faster response, but don't need the absorption quite as much.
BTW its taken me awhile to get to the point where I've got all of these set-ups. (and I still want to try a well set-up plate board someday). I'd suggest you focus on one setting up one board at a time, either look into carving, or look into AM. Aim for something that will perform optimally the way you want it, then start looking at what you need in another deck.
Cheers,
Dave.
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Not selling my equipment but I'm 215lbs and for serious AM riding (double blacks, moguls, airs, and last year a drop of about 18') I go with UPZ ATBs, TD3 Step ins (I'd consider sidewinders bit they aren't step in yet) with yellow elastomers. For a board I've been running a custom Donek Incline with rubber damping (163cm/25cm/10m). My angles are about 50f/45r
For the past two years the incline was about a 163, and it rocked the AM stuff (airs, spins, zipper lines in moguls, float in pow) but I had to baby it a bit when I brought it back onto groom because the nose would fold a bit and wrap me into a ridiculously tight carve. I sold that to a lighter guy over the summer and I've upgraded the board to another custom Incline with the rubber damping from Sean's Saber model. The specs are now (171cm/24.5cm/10-12m). I'm looking forward to seeing how it'll rip.
Cheers,
Dave
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I'll miss reading about SkES. It was always better than shenanigans elsewhere. Best of luck this the move.
Dave
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Thanks Rice,
I'm in for all three days, and Leslie, Olivia, and Zoë will be there Friday and Sunday.
Dave
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Very sad.
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I will say I've seen this Prior in person and the green is awesome! Too short/soft for me though. Good luck with the sale, Nick.
Using terms like "awesome" actually understates how rad this green actually looks.
Note to self: Check with my kids and see if 'rad' has come back into vogue yet.
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Sweet. I'm in. Though that'll pretty much be my first weekend of real riding for the year.
Dave
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I find when flexing hardboots at the ankle joint you shouldn't think about bending your ankle, rather think about shifting your weight towards the nose and tail of the board. This movement will involve shifting your hips forward or backwards causing your shin to lever against the boot cuff causing the ankle to flex. You'll need to be attached to a board to get this to work though.
If you need a softer boot and your boot is fitting properly you could definately try a BTS, if you are sick of the zip tie straps, you might want to consider a different boot. Either stay with the Raichles/Deeluxes if that fit works for you or try a UPZ. Heads still exist but I'm pretty sure they aren't being manufactured anymore.
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Would you say scrape my deeluxes? or just get a new liner? (when should I ever replace a boot?)
I'd replace a boot when it's physically broken, cracked etc, or if it doesn't work with your foot shape, or you are somehow unsatisfied with the performance of it.
Not being a park guy or into doing grabs in the air, I personally don't ride softboots at all anymore. That being said I've got two sets of hardboots. The RTRs (RC-10s are the current UPZ model) I use when I'm going carving and plan to be hitting groom. Though I did 50/50 a box in the park on a 187 WCRM with them one time, and flew through a bunch of moguls with them on a Schtubby.
I typically use the ATBs in pow or for AM riding. Honestly the ATBs are really soft and give me a surfy feel, but still are rigid enough that i can carve respectably when i get back on groom but not to the extent that I can carve in my RTRs. i've dropped off a headwall for about 18' of vertical on them. And love running pow. I find I can deal with chopped up crud a lot better in hardboots than I can in softies.
Best of luck with the interview!
Dave.
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I've ridden UPZ RTRs (carving), UPZ ATBs (AM) and Deeluxe 225Ts. I used the 225s for one season and replaced them with the ATBs as that shell fits my foot better. I'm 6'2", 215lbs with extremely wide flat feet and a narrower heel and I couldn't get the heel on the 225T to hold my heel in place.
UPZs fit wider in the forefoot anf narrower in the heel than the Deeluxe boot. My bootfitter described them as essentially oppositely shaped from each other. They also have a spring system built-in to allow you to tune the flex similar to the BTS, though the BTS may supply more range of movement. I haven't personally riden on a BTS equipped boot, though I have installed it on my daughter's hardboots and it definately helped her with the flex (she was 10 and all of 80lbs last season).
I've replaced the UPZ liners in both boots with Deeluxe 141 liners and molded insoles. I may not have had to replace the liners but I like the custom fit of thermos, and going to a thermo alsomsoftens the boot somewhat. Because my feet are completely flat (yup) I've still had to have the toe box and arch of both boots widened substantially to accommodate for my wider feet. Once I got them set up they were super comfortable, however changing boots (for me) initially can take a bit of time to get them set-up properly.
Cheers,
Dave
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... they are all 19cm width ...Do you have a Bx ??
Unless they're for riders with uber small feet; I don't think those are BX Kesslers.
Dave
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I'm thinking their fan base couldn't understand why anybody needed to waste time turning.
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Sweet! I've got a season's pass up there for this season again. Looking forward to seeing you out there this year Allee.
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Twistboard?
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Flipping the hanger doesn't change the angle. However, it can change the feel, stabillity and agility.
Ok maybe I'm confused. I'm new to the skateboard culture and newer to the tech side. What is the 'angle' we are referring to? I'm thinking I'm using the wrong reference plane.
I'm asking because my Bear Grizzlies 852s are a reverse kingpin truck, where the hanger is 'bent' when looked at from the side. The bushing cup also seems deeper on one side then on the other. This results in a different angle between the hanger and the board when it is installed on the same baseplate depending on whether the hanger is flipped or unflipped.
Running a non-flipped grizzly gives you and angle of 52 degrees while flipping I think gives you about 47-48 degrees. With both trucks flipped the board gets lower and more stable, running both unflipped resulted in a more carvey setup. Flipping a hanger literally lowered the end of the board that the hanger was flipped on by 4-5mm. How is this possible if the angle hasn't changed?
This morning running the rear flipped and the front unflipped seemed to give me a turnier front truck and a more stable rear truck which seemed to help the pumping efficiency (until I hit a rock and supermanned like ETFathead mentioned happened to him earlier from wheelbite).
Can you clarify this for me?
Thanks,
Dave
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I'm about 220 so definately be keeping the wheel bite in mind. I ordered all their angled shock risers and all the screw lengths they had for hardware when I put the order in so hopefully I've got enough to sort things out. Risers alone are easy enough to pick up locally so I'm pretty sure I can get things set up ok once everything arrives.
I've been using the Dropcarve to commute (it's about 6k but they are about to extend the path another 2k) and it's been raining a bit lately so I pulled my bearings and cleaned everything out. Then for ****s and giggles I flipped the hanger on my front Bear Grizzly to increase the hanger angle and loosened it to make it a little turnier. I left the back one at it's lower angle and tightened it to help stiffen the back end. The board now sits a little nose high about 1/4" drop over 41" but perhaps it'll be a little more efficient to pump until my Mermaid gets here.
Commuting on the longboard, pumping, and dropping the occasional hill has definately helped take the edge off I normally get when I'm not able to get on snow during the summer.
Dave
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Ordered a Roe Mermaid from Stoked as well. But I just figured out how to pump my landyatchz bamboo dropcarve 41" today. Oy are my abs killing me. Love the feeling of carving turns continuously.
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You might want to go check out the add on Kijiji Halifax that the OP linked and contact the seller there. This is not the OP's board they just linked to it on here to allow the comunity at large a better shot at it.
Cheers,
Dave
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I can't tell from the pic. Is this a BX model or no?
Nope.
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The carving feeling I get from longboarding is really helping me get through it this year.
Less bombing hills more getting on them and doing turn after turn after turn. Walk up, ride down, repeat. I'm getting better, but I still suck.
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So what I get from these pictures is that just like today's softbooters, steampunk softbooters are limited in how hard they can carve by their equipment. ;)
Deeluxe Free 69
in Carving Central
Posted · Edited by Puddy Tat
Deeluxe basically has two shells (Track 700 and the 325/225 series) utilizing different plastics. The 69 is a different plastic version of the 325/225. Softer plastic makes a different flexing boot, not a new boot. Is there anything here that you can't get by installing a BTS on a 325 shell? They essentially have three boots which are effectively the same (69/325/225).
UPZs are similar, In that the 3 boots use the same shell, but at least their 3 models RC-10/RC-8/ATB have different configurations as well as different plastics.
While I realize that its expensive, and a huge leap for a company to make in a product that likely produces small marginal benefits currently but it would be nice to see industry investment in a new shell design. Perhaps with Head having left the boot market (I believe) a less segmented market will result in larger revenues (more units sold) which may allow UPZ or Deeluxe to create a more modern boot?
One can always hope. Anyways I'm happy that UPZ continues to expand and improve on their existing products and line even if it is only by adding or removing buckles, or updating the powerstap. EDIT: I'm also happy that the two remaining companies have shells that seem two different and opposite footshapes (Deeluxe - narrow toe, wider heel and UPZ - wider toe and narrower heel).
Dave