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Puddy Tat

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Posts posted by Puddy Tat

  1. "Dude's on a race board!"

    Ok fer F's sake. It's a 171cm Donek Incline directional "normally" shaped board. While I'll admit the guy probably couldn't tell my UPZ ATBs were a ridiculously soft 'hardboot', riding plates doesn't make something a 'race board'.

    Ok internal rant over.

    So I replied with, "no its actually an all-mountain board" to which I got a blank stare.

    <sigh>

  2. This probably goes without saying but when you set the deck up, just make sure you've got enough risers in to eliminate any chance of wheel bite. When the trucks are set up that turny the board leans over a lot more.

    Interestingly enough when my Roe Triton arrived set-up from Stoked it was unrideable due to wheelbite until I had installed a couple of 1/2" risers. Took me an evening playing around to get the wedging and risers set up to the point where I could ride the board.

    I was actually getting wheel bite on my dropcarve which has open wheel wells, but it wasn't ever enough to stop the board. I just happened to notice the wear marks on the edge of the front wheel wells one day.

    Dave

  3. I started pumping a landyatchz dropcarve with Bear 852 trucks last summer. It works. I just had to push to get up to speed and then could pump until my speed dropped off. Changing the rear truck to a Bear 840 and top mounting the deck made it even better for pumping. I used softer bushings in the front truck and harder bushings in the rear. I was doing about 30km distance on that set-up with no extra wedging

    I've only been at this for one season but conventional wisdom seems to be wedge the front truck to about 60 degrees (8 degrees on the 852) to make it more turny and de-wedge the rear truck to about 30 degrees to make it more dead (so 15-20 degrees on the Paris or 10 degrees on my 840). There are even more extreme versions of this (like zero degree rear trucks) but the 60/30 seems to be what is generally suggested.

    Late last season I bought a Roe Triton with a Bennett 5.0 and Tracker RTS 129 which I can pump from a standstill.

    Dave.

  4. ... was shocked at how fast it came... I sincerely hope you are able to keep this mag going.
    Wow, Another piece of art.

    These last two comments nicely summed up my feelings too.

    This is as good as the first. Love the production value and quality of the magazine. Hope you can continue to keep doing these.

    Dave

  5. I'm dropping Zoe off for all-day lessons at 10AM just outside Mad Trapper's. Then I'll be riding by myself until I have to pick her up at 3:30. If anyone wants to come up and trench Sunshine for the day drop a line below and we can meet at Mad Trapper's at 10AM. I'm sure it would screw with the instructors heads if there were a bunch of alpine decks lined up outside of Mad Trapper's when their lessons started. :)

    My plans are to spend the day carving but:

    Should it be a hardpack day (<15cm of fresh) I'll definitely be on the Schtubby and carving.

    Should it be a ridiculous powder day I'll be freeriding whatever is out there on the Incline and ATBs. If its such a day and you've got an avy beacon and gear I'll bring mine and go drop into the Dive or Wild West with you.

    Cheers,

    Dave

  6. Sorry I couldn't be there, Liv and Zoe have lessons at Sunshine on Saturdays so I was up there on my Schtubby with Les. First time I've really had that board out since I started riding the WCRM last season. I was lovin' it again. Les just finished some lessons so she was taking me through moguls and other chop, and then we hit some harder rougher carving terrain. The schtub was ripping, and it was popping nicely between turns. I spent a bunch of time working on stuff from Corey's carving clinic and think i felt some improvement. Great day for me anyways.

    Going to be out on the Incline tomorrow to give that board its first real test runs.

    Dave

  7. Yeah not many hardbooters in Saskatchewan. When White Track (local Hill) was still running we had 3 or 4 of us Hardbooting. Saddly the guy that got us into it passed away a number of years ago. He was a great embassador for Snowboarding and Hardboots.

    Sorry to hear about that. I joke with Neil Gendzwill (out of Saskatoon) that every time he comes to NES at Nakiska in January that Saskatchewan must be virtually empty of hardbooters. He's ok with that because he says that anytime Corey_Dyck leaves Manitoba the number of carvers there goes to zero. BTW both of them are down at SES right now representing Canada's flatland hardbooters.

    You should try and make it out for NES at Nakiska next January. It's a great time, and we had 18 carvers sitting down for lunch in the lodge. It's the only time of the year that I typically get to ride with anyone else who hardboots.

    Cheers,

    Dave

  8. a delrin spherical or a hobo works well too. That's definitely a good investment. Definitely try reflexes. Also, how loose/tight is your front truck?

    http://pavedwave.wordpress.com/help/

    the videos should help. Part 4 video also shows how to test for proper rebound for the front truck so it won't be too loose or tight. (it's a good starting point)

    I was set up like that when I started riding. Not so much by the end of the season. Actually come to think of it I think I chewed up that front bushing on the Bennett in about a month? Maybe less.

    Dave.

  9. I used the original Bennett bushing in the board for the season (well past the life of the bushing) and noticed that the hanger had been impacting the kingpin and the bushing was basically trying to extrude through the slot. Board needs new bushings, and the hanger needs to be polished so it won't chew up any Delrin Spherical I put in there.

    I've heard that investing in a Delrin spherical (from Griffin Skate) or going to a Hobo spherical (see pavedwave.org) helps cut down on the bushings getting eaten by the hanger and the hanger getting eaten by the kingpin. This is one of the reasons I'm buying the Grennett this season. I think he sells a Bennett tune up kit for like $25 that includes a Delrin cup, Delrin Spherical and a few other goodies that makes a standard Bennett pump better. I know polishing the head of my Bennett hanger (where it goes into the cup) made the system run much more smoothly.

    The Grennett also changes that kingpin for a rounded head allen bolt making it less likely to catch.

    Dave

  10. Another month and perhaps the bike paths will be getting clear of snow so can bust out the longboard and start pumping again! Stoked!

    BTW I went through the bushings on my Bennett's by the end of last season. They were ridiculously chewed, I probably should have replaced them months before I checked them. Anyways looking at picking up a bunch of the Riptide APS Tall Barrel's which were made for the Bennett series trucks. (http://www.riptidebushings.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1849). At least that way I'll be able to test out some different duros.

    I sent Thane (www.griffinskateboards.com) an email this morning to see about ordering a Fully Machined Grennett 5.0 and some Array Washers. I'm interested to see how much better than a stock Bennett (with some at home polishing) that his Fully Machined Grennett performs.

    So looking forward to pumping again.

    Dave

  11. Dave, how much lead time do you need?

    Lead time isn't the issue so much as the actual day. We are down at Sunshine on Saturdays as the kids are in lessons, and i may have Zoe with me on the first weekend in March. Not sure if I'll be down the second weekend in March. So Feb 24th I'd be able to make it, or Mar 3rd. March 9th I probably won't be coming down.

    Dave

  12. [ATTACH]33371[/ATTACH]

    Hmm the grooming looks a little off for Nakiska.

    Glad you had fun. That's my pretty much my favourite hill to go rip on a carving deck the grooming is normally incredible, and you can count on most of the hill being well groomed.

    Cheers,

    Dave

    Back when I was a jibber we hardly ever went here because we were of the opinion that they pretty much groomed the whole mountain flat. Now... it's like having a blank canvas for carving decks.

  13. To me the video was more useful than the stills. On your heelside your rear arm lags behind you this results in a somewhat toilet sitting position, leaving your chest not rotating into the turn.

    What helped me, and made my heelsides much stronger than my toesides, was that I took the hand that was on the inside of the turn (right for you on heelside and left for you on toeside) and put it on my front knee (your left knee in this case). On heelsides you'll be touching the inside of your front knee and the outside of your front knee on toesides. On heelside this is your rear hand coming forward, forcing you to rotate your chest into the turn, in order to put your hand on your knee. Anytime you feel yourself chattering out mentally check where your hand is there is a good chance it's not on your knee and is up and back. I'll edit this post and add a picture of the positions tomorrow.

    This made an immediate difference in my riding. Basically as soon as i started doing this i was able to put my hip on the snow on pretty much any heelside that I wanted to commit to.

    Now that my toesides are weak compared to my heelsides I'm working on trying to stop touching the snow on toeside turns as I recently realized it is pulling my shoulders out of an optimal position, reducing my angulation and is contributing to weaker toesides.

    Dave

    The shot currently in my Avatar was taken in January 2012 before Darcy gave me this same advice and shows my rear arm in a bad position. Because my arm is up and towards the rear you'll notice my chest isn't really rotated into the turn. The picture actually bears a pretty close resemblance to your heelside in your second picture.

  14. James,

    Boots arrived today, nicely packed and in great condition. Thanks.

    To anyone else, James was great to deal with; He had the boots shipped and a tracking number to me literally within hours of me paying him for them. :biggthump

    Dave

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