John K

For the engineers out there..... Oil can degrade plastic, does grease degrade plastic? I use philwood hub grease on the internals of my intec heals and cables.... (they come with some brown grease in there) how is philwood hub grease with plastic? Is there a prefered grease? Thanks JK

Picked up some skis for my son on ebay and one had a delaminated tip. What is the best epoxy to use?? Any other suggestions on fixing them? They also have a gouge that runs to the edge, but the edge is not bent. When I have tryed to repair stuff like that before, the ptex doesn't stick to the edge is there a trick? Thanks in advance for your help John

I love my intecs and with 3 years and about 90 days, I have had no problems. Still I have concerns given the reports, but I am 165lbs and plan to keep a close eye on things and stay with the system. Maybe someone could clarify for me how the system is designed to work. I know that there is from time to time upward force on the pins, but most downward force would be taken by the "ears" and the front bail right ? and during this phase it seems that you would not comeout untill you applied the upward force or unwaited in a transition. Does anyone know if Bomber will be selling Intecs prior to the lawsuit settlement ? Where else can I go for a backup set of heels? JK

OK... I know this topic is usually part of the Spring Season, but I just built a new storage rack closer to my waxing bench and I want to get a sense if I am going to mess up my boards. The question is.... if the boards are laid horizontal supported just near the tip and tail by 1/2 inch pvc, will the camber be effected over time? Should I rotate them once a month ? How about skis? Thanks in advance for your thoughts and observations... JK

Good enough....... I will order a new set of heels (faulty or not) since mine are on year 4. I will keep my eyes open for the bomber heels with titanium pins and I will enjoy carving hard and not think about the "what ifs". JK

After 3 years of running intec heals and bomber bindings with no problems, I am concerned after a local rider is still dealing with a major leg injury due to a snapped pin and subsequent release of his front foot. I know this is not a new topic here.... but..... Does anyone know of improvements coming out for the heal piece? Is there enough reason to switch to bails or at least run my front foot with standard bindings? Any other thoughts on the topic would be appreciated ! Thanks John

SOLD....

My 2002 Oxygen has about 35 days on it. It is in good condition and the edges are still very sharp and I have never tuned it. I have kept it well waxed !!! I am selling because I just have too many boards with the recent arrival of 2 coilers. $175 + $25 shipping email me for pics....

I realize that this is somewhat off topic. Outside of early failure does anyone have a sense of when the heels should be replaced. I have probably 70 days on mine and they seem fine, although there is play in the pins (not sure if they always had the same level of play or not) Maintenance.... after snapping a cable, Every summer, I open them up, grease them with phil wood hub grease and put in new cables if they are frayed even one strand (at least one usual is) Another thought is should we grease the pins so that they move more freely around the hole and put less pressure on the inside of the heels and less wear on the bindings? JK

Has anyone replaced there original heels for wear and tear ? If so, what was the deciding factor? Thanks JK

My topsheet is white and the board is definitely soft.... still carves fine, but my friend says it looks like I am about to fold the nose..... I weigh 160.... that's what makes it a nice hardboot powder board. My top sheet is white with different graphics, so maybe it is older... it is definitely way softer than my burton speed, which is another good all around ride.

I have a 167.... great all mountain board..... soft and very light. I use it exclusively for powder and riding with skiers.... easy to jump turn in chutes. Carves pretty tight due to its soft flex. A great board to have in your quiver. John K

Rained last wed. all the way to the top of my hill (Alpine Meadows). The weekend before was hero, this past weekend was hard and crunchy:< No snow in the forecaste, but at least it is suppose to cool down...... JK

I actually have 2 boards coming. One is a allmountain and the other is a custom board similar in dimensions to a swoard. From my correspondence with Bruce (great guy, by the way) he indicated that they come with a stone ground base and edges are done to 89*. He mentioned that adding a base bevel makes them easier to ride. I think I will probably ride them as is initially, but especially with the AM which will be off-piste as well a 1* base bevel is probably a good idea. Thoughts anyone?

I am so psyched to have a coiler on its way !! My understanding is that Bruce does 1* side bevel and leaves the base flat. Does anyone ride with no base bevel ?

I've got one.... ebay deal and it is really fun. Has anyone used one in deep powder ? JK

Thanks for the offer.... but I got impatient and bought a new one.....

With lateral flexibility a big deal for the EC school, I am curious how many of you ride with your boot canting mechanism loose to allow more lateral flex?

I am looking for a 3* and have a 0* to trade. Thanks John

Rob, I know of you through Peter Vu and the TahoeCarvers crowd. I appreciate your input and am curious if you ride with or without cants and what changes you might have made when moving to your wider board. Thanks John

Nice thread, but it really addresses the topic of board width and angles. What I am more interested in is "stance width" I would guess that most of us ride between 17" and 20" depending on the length of our legs and assistance from canting. Does anyone ride at a 16" stance width? If I ride 17" without cants is that somehow equal to 18" with 3* front and back? I am curious if people have moved to a wider or narrower width and what they feel are the pros and cons. Thanks again !

I have always run 18" stance width, 3*,3*cants, 60*57* angles on my proton. I am playing around with wider boards and with the lower angles the canting seems less important. The problem is then I find my stance feels way too wide. Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of a slightly wider or narrower stance? I am thinking moving from 18" to 17" Also for those that have moved from a 19cm width to a 21-22cm width boards, what changes did you make to your angles, canting, and stance width? thanks!

Hugh, Please put me in line after Jim to try it.... :p Thanks John

Still looking for a 0* cant that is burton compatible. All I need is one.... Thanks John

Jim, Unless it is a real old one it will work for 3 holes.... I can send you a picture of the 2 types if you wish. The one on the right works with both....left is 4 hole only. Email me direct...... John jk123@pacbell.net ps..... To Clarify, I only have 1 - 3* cant w/purple bumpers