leeho730
-
Posts
576 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Profiles
Forums
Posts posted by leeho730
-
-
http://www.bomberonline.com/resources/Techarticles/binding_setup.html
Step 5... Angle with no overhang on rear foot is a good reference angle to start with... Then you might want to reduce a bit.
Sean has posted an excellent video in regards to angle and width of the board etc.
You might want to rotate rear binding so that the boot and the board would have 80 degrees angle. Then set front binding from 0 to 10 degrees greater than rear. Good place to start with would be to give front binding 3-5 degrees more than rear binding and then start adjusting the front.
-
Front binding can get released accidentally while on the lift. And God knows how much I'll have to cough up if that happens and then the board slides down the hill and injures someone. Serious injury means several hundreds of thousands dollars in damage and no leash cord means defendant will be guilty of negligence as well and it will make the whole case more difficult to defend. The chance of release may be really low but doesn't mean it will never happen. Leash cords cost 10 to 20 bucks and it can potentially save you hundreds of thousands of dollars. I put in leash cords all the time but each to their own I guess.
More info on ski collision/injury cases: http://www.skilaw.com/
-
A very tough question.... You probably mentioned most if not all light and flexy plastic binding.... If ibex, snowpro or f2 can't help you....
It sounds like you are looking for a light/flexy plastic binding for an all mountain/powder/tree board, I assume? Especially if you worry about hitting trees...
There are two binding you might want to consider:
1. ACT gear glide S: soft binding, fits Asian (READ small) feet pretty well, so adjustment range should be good even for small boots...
http://www.actgear.jp/catalog/1213/cata_page/1213other/1213cata_glides.htm
2. S5 Race: heel bail allows flexion, fairly light for aluminium (1200g per pair)
http://www.s5.co.kr/news5/news5.asp
I would probably recommend ACT gear glide S.... Most flexy binding on their catalogue..... Fairly low stack height... Should be fairly light.... Do come with 4-piece 3D cant plate.... Disadvantage...? How are you gonna get that from Japan... Not to mention Japanese are not terribly good English speakers... And you need to buy cant lift wedge separately if you need more and I'm not sure they'll ship to the States.... They do sell spare parts but then again shipping and payment would be a problem...
One way is to buy from Rakuten (http://global.rakuten.com/en/) but ACT gear binding doesn't come up that often. They do sell slightly harder Glide Ti, though. BEWARE they're pricey, priced between Ibex and TD3.
http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/auc-breakout/item/act-bin-ti/
Lastly you might want to try F2 race ti small size...
-
Probably the biggest thing about ALLFLEX plate is one can subtly control and vary fore and aft flex since there are hinges on both sides. Might be good for top level racers who wants 0.01 seconds advantage per gate (actually that would be a huge advantage) but for mere mortal freecarver like me it I recon it's overkill.
Steve, can I ask you how you mounted bomber plate directly onto the plate?
-
2nd in line...
-
A funky new plate, called Allflex plate
http://allflexplate.com/index.php/en/
Makes sense... travel on each hinge: 4.5mm so total of 9mm. Max vertical movement of 6.4mm in the middle of the board.
REALLY LOW stack height, needs new insert pattern. Estimate stack height would be around 15mm?
Saw some photos of Black Pearl, Donek and Kessler racers with plates, so looks like the plate is very useful in racing.
-
I'll take them with Raichle heel blocks. Can you ship to New Zealand or would it be more convenient to ship to Oregon? Thanks!
-
Hi,
Does it come with cant/lift kits as well? Thanks!
-
One might wait for next year, Salomon Quantum binding looks promising. Full carbon high back, rather thin heel cup. Unsure heel cup would be stiff for carving.
-
The parts will be sent to a new home in 6 hours...
-
THE PARTS ARE GONE...
Hi,
I have some leftover TD2 parts from TD2Ti gold digger:
4x sole blocks
2x large bail lugs
2x large bail lugs for spring
2x lug springs still working
12x lug bolts (could be Ti bolts? Not sure)
M6x12mm screws for sole blocks (not shown)
plus
2x modified catek toe clip for Track 700 size 25.
Missing parts are:
2x large bail lugs
2x heel bails
2x toe bails.
BOL store still sells those missing parts.
Reason for giving them away; don't need them any more, I'd rather someone use them than have them sitting in my garage.
Please just pay me the shipping cost. Roughly it will cost 16 USD for the States.
Interested, please email me at leeho730 at gmail dot com. I will then calculate the shipping cost and let you know. I use Paypal.
-
Dainese stuff is okay, but I have to caution you guys that some of their back armor is made of a honeycomb aluminum. It's a one time use product. If any one of the honeycombs are comprimised, the back protector needs to be replaced. You may be better off getting something that is made with a type of foam that can take multiple hits. I'm a HUGE fan of Forcefield T Pro armor, they have a snow line. http://www.forcefieldbodyarmour.com/snow
It seems that most, if not all, of Dainese back protectors have honeycomb structures... Bugger.
I've got a fox Titan jacket medium (like the picture above). It says EC certified but doesn't say the level so probably level 1....
-
I don't have armor but I do make a lawyer ride we me everywhere I go. He wears a business suit and carries a briefcase with him when he rides. Nobody comes anywhere near us.
Funny someone mentions this since I DO ride with my lawyer sometimes...
Anyway I think it's a great idea! Also should include helmet mounted go pro!
-
The best bet is to ask the seller to package the board and get USPS quote... You'll need to inform the seller post code and the county....
-
For bum guard this seems the best
http://www.xsportsprotective.com/azzpad-tailbone-protector.html
It sticks out though...
-
purpletiesto lives in Aussie so the shipping cost will be exorbitant... Some do ship using USPS and the cost to Aussie tends to be reasonable (79 bucks for Storm 161) but merchants (e.g. Donek) seem to have better deal than individuals...
Look around! We Aussie/Kiwis still have 5 months for the season... No need to hurry...
-
I use elbow guard and wrist guard and occasionally bum guard.
Been thinking about full upper armor, ive got fox one but am really interested in Dianese one with neck guard. Bit pricey, though.
http://www.dainese.com/wd_en/motorbike/jacket-wave-pro-1.html?cat=41
-
No problem. I'll let you know what the shipping cost is. How fast do you need it?
E-mail me at brandonacollins@yahoo.com
Hi,
Email sent. The ski season won't start until June so the binding can be shipped using slower post. Thanks!
-
Interested in Ibex binding. Will you ship to New Zealand? Postcode 7730. Thanks!
-
True about EC breaking things. I also bent two 6mm bails, one from jump and one from carving. But never a titanium bail, still strong after 5 years... Sidewinder was a godsend.
Perhaps I should have said "F2 breaks more often than Bomber TD series. I remember fin's post regarding development of fin tec stating that the reason he discontinued F2 product was due to the fact that over 90% of warranty claim regarding binding came from a particular manufacturer and that (then) recent happening with lawsuit finally made him to develop his own system. I'll post the link once I find it...
F2 is a very good binding, definitely proven in world cup and Olympics, I was entertaining an idea of putting f2 sole blocks and bails on my splitboard... It's just I'll trust bomber binding under my feet rather than F2... Since durability and ruggedness are big issues for me... Call me skeptic/chicken...
The again the new F2 CNC should be extremely durable.... I'll be interested in how they ride...
-
Well I just seemed to open that can of worm, didn't I? From my limited experience UFC was certainly worth the money (didn't do enough test on terminator) but of course one could use coiler AM or donek AX for almost half the price!
I'm being a devil's advocate here; I don't necessarily agree with what I say (for example, I kinda agree with TLN in that one might as well go for F2 considering price and proven performance) but I take unconventional/unpopular stance to test the strength of argument here... For example, lowrider mentioned about possible weakness of the sole block-baseplate interface... I could say that Burton bindings had similar interface but no one seemed to break them much, at least there is no report of it yet...
And I actually kinda agree with lowrider about that and I would put more faith in TD system than Hoof binding...
My point is hoof binding is worthy to consider... Will I buy it? Maybe if my Ibex breaks and I don't want to use Ibex any more for some reason... But pricey enough that I won't grab credit card (if I can buy it at all). Like TLN said, with price tag of 300 bucks might as well go for F2... But Hoof binding actually has sole blocks reinforced with metal plate.... So I believe sole block at least is going to be a bit more durable than f2... I recon it's a fairly good alternative to Ibex... But what can I say each to their own....
-
So how many 200lb + korean carvers are there?
A very good point!
Reason to go for hoof binding? Perhaps for those who wanted 6mm bail on Ibex. Indeed, not long ago someone asked here about attaching Bomber or Catek bails to Ibex... For that person hoof could be a good alternative provided he isn't too heavy...
I'm happy with my TD3, Sidewinder, ibex, catek but occasionally I thought ibex with 6mm bail could be interesting...
For heavier rider, may need to use 4 screws but then the stiffness may become hard and then one might as well go for TD3... But stack height is kinda attractive... I've been using TD3 with TD2 second board kit and would be interested to find out how the stack height between two bindings compare...
Proven WC record... Im sorry but according to that logic shouldn't everyone run with f2 binding, apex plate and Kessler or sigi boards...? Why bother with things like TD3 and Virus when they are more expensive and there is no proven Olympic record associated with them...?
Which brings an interesting point... Since I do own a couple of Virus boards... Maybe I should've bought Kessler/SG instead since they're cheaper and have more proven world cup podium records... Maybe I was wrong to purchase Virus...
I'm not trying to provoke anyone... Just to stimulate thoughts... That's all...
-
There is a metal plate on the inside of sole block that holds bail and act as reinforcement.
It's possible to use four screws, which will more securely hold sole blocks and stiffen lateral flex. Riders seem to prefer 2 screws for a bit of lateral flex, though.
Price wise it's roughly 300 usd so it's similar to ibex here.
They're Korean binding so unless someone in US wants to deal with them you'll have to speak Korean to buy them...
-
I'd love to be there with my terminator but can't. Darn.
Binding Question
in Carving Central
Posted
Perhaps another option is to mount TD base plate directly to the board...?
Steve on Alpine plate system thread managed to mount TD base plate directly onto the plate.
You might also need thin silicone sheet, which can be bought cheaply from eBay, some sellers sell silicone mouse pads. I bought some and am going to line the board.
That way you also save money and you can loosen the TD2 binding a bit for more flex.