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Posts posted by mirror70
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Bordy,
The "do not correct me" line is there because you have a knack for going completely off-topic in an effort to show how good of a rider you are. Your last post is a perfect example of this.
Now, for an itemized response to your last post:
I never said the harder object is damaged you made that upSo in your first reply when you said "If you have Burrs on you edge they had to be caused by something harder then the metal" what exactly did you mean? How can I take you seriously when you say something explicitly but then later say either you meant the exact opposite or didn't say it at all?
You know the bond of glass is less strong then the hydrogen bond of waterActually, I know this is wrong. Glass is very strong. The details of this are well outside the realm of this thread, and probably this forum as well. I'd be more than happy to discuss the technical side of this with you, but this thread is not the place for it.
YOU HIT SOME THING THAT CAUSED A BURR IN YOUR EDGEYes, I gathered that much. I also said that such an impact/scrape would be something that I would notice while riding, and that I did not notice anything, so I was looking for other potential causes. I see from the other responses in the thread that other people have come up with some possibilities. It looks almost like the World Cup non-hero was trounced by his adoring fans?
Everyone wants to be so right on this board. No one cares about the other guy.Hi, Pot. Meet Kettle.
didn't you stop into the shop to see me one day. I think I remember.I'm pretty sure you don't remember. The only shops I spend any time in are filled with autoclaves or various CNC machinery. It's also a heck of a drive for me to get to your shop.
in reference to the ECES post I really hope you are not talking smackI think you have me confused with someone else.
Maybe I’ll still be sore from my rag-doll and won’t have to use it as excuse so much as reason to gloat.I thought you were just sore from patting yourself on the back so much? Or was it all of the chest thumping? The self high-fives?
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Now, back to the original post.
Given that the edge is burred from tip to tail, that I ride slowly and saw nothing in my path besides snow, that I can't remember hearing or feeling the board slice through anything hard (I assume that something to give my board this burr would have been noteworthy - is that a false assumption?), and that my heel edge is flawless (somewhat eliminates the thin cover/bunch of small burrs theory), what could be the cause? Just a lone rock, held firmly in place below the snow surface, right at carving depth with only enough of it exposed to the edge to cause damage but in no way affect my carve, and leave my base completely untouched?
I agree that it is possible - it just doesn't seem likely.
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Bordy, without getting into the science of this, how about a couple of anecdotes?
Case 1) I have a knife. I cut vegetables with this knife, and I cut them on a plastic cutting board. Can we agree that the knife is harder than the vegetables? The knife is harder than the plastic cutting board? That I don't eat vegetables with rocks in them? Ok, now explain why I need to sharpen the knife.
Case 2) I have two objects, both of the same Rockwell hardness. I hit them against each other very hard. You said that only the harder object is damaged in these sorts of impacts. Does this mean that neither object will be damaged by me colliding them?
Case 3) I throw a hunk of ice at a car window very hard. The window breaks, the ice does not. Why? The glass has a higher Rockwell hardness, higher compressive strength (several orders of magnitude greater), and higher tensile strength (again, several orders of magnitude higher).
Now, can you tell me the derivation of the Rockwell hardness rating? What it is good for? Why it is flawed? How about how hot you need to get steel at a given pressure and how long you need to keep it there for it to be really and truly tempered? I mean really tempered, not just a mild surface finish.
Bordy, I know you know a lot about snowboarding - You've probably forgotten more than I'll ever know. That is why when you say something, unless it is completely out there, I take it as gospel. This does not, however, make you an expert in metals.
Oh, and the field is called Metallurgy.
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It doesn't take something harder than the edge to give it a burr. It is much easier if the offender is harder, but it's not a requirement. Unlike snowboarding, this is actually one area where I have real expertise, so don't try to correct me.
I'm talking about the metal edge, not the base. even the base by the edge is untouched. The burr runs just about tip to tail. I didn't hit anything that I saw, felt, or heard. In the absence of such evidence, I can't for the life of me figure out why it's there.
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I just noticed that after a few days of riding, the heel side edge of my F2 feel fine, but the toeside is like 10 grit sandpaper. I don't recall trying to rip toeside carves while I was going through the parking lot, so there goes that excuse.
Is there some major flaw in my technique that I'm not aware of?
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Basically, take whatever size is recommended on this forum and then cut it in half.
[ducking]
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I'll be at Wawa on Wed. Can I get a CD, too? (can you burn DVDs?)
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Contacts are not a viable option for me. Because of the work that I do, I can't always guarantee that my fingers are free of substances which I don't want in my eyes. That means I'd regularly be switching between glasses and contacts, which defeats the purpose of using only one method of vision correction - simplicity.
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That's gotta suck for people who dress light so they can cool off on the lift and heat up during the run.
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The Briko OTGs look like they might be the best option. Any idea if those fit under most helmets, specifically a Burton Sky Cap?
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I tried them but didn't like them. I had too much trouble putting them on and taking them off and decided it just wasn't worth the hassle.
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I can't seem to find the link to the thread on the old forum.
Have people tried these? How well do they work? Where can I have a pair made?
I think my riding would be vastly improved if I could see where I was going :)
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Mark,
Did those bindings arrive ok? I'm going to machine the cant insert this week. Sorry about the delay.
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I don't have a camera and I won't be there, but I do have about 400GB of free drive space at the moment. It would be cool if I could get copies of some of the tapes and maybe have a go at editing some footage.
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So which resort has the lift with the largest vertical gain?
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What's everyone doing tonight? Snow should be nice and hard for railing turns....
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Subject says it all.
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I've been riding my 153 F2 Speedster SL almost exclusively this season. That's primarily because it rides so much nicer than my FP164, but I also love ripping quick deep carves on the short board. Of course, it helps a lot that I'm light enough that I don't need the extra edge of the 164.
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::smacks forehead::
Wow, I feel dumb.
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I'm going to be CNCing a new insert for a Burton cant disc tomorrow and need to know this dimension.
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I need a board delivered to someone there, so it would be awesome if I could avoid the headache of shipping it.
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Hey John,
If I sign up for those tickets and just meet you at the mountain, where and when do I pick up the ticket? Any idea if I can use a WaWa gift card to pay for it?
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Originally posted by stoked
Factory Prime 167 for $30
does that include shipping?
Not to Austria :-) I don't know how much it'll cost to ship, but I'd imagine shipping will be in the $20-30 range, depending on location. I can work with people on shipping, but I'd rather not cover it all - at that point I may as well just donate the board.
The board is actually a Factory Prime prototype, circa 1995. It has quite a few miles on it and is really best suited to someone who has never ridden plates before but wants to give it a try.
As far as a Factory Prime being a bad beginners' board, that's just hogwash. I had a grand total of 3 days riding a soft setup before I got a chance to try riding plates. What setup did I get to try? A Factory Prime 164. It is a great beginners' board because it is very damped, smooth, predictable, and lacks the liveliness and pop that make boards like the RT and F2 Speedster so much fun to ride (but can literally throw a beginner off the snow).
Anyway, this has drifted a bit off topic, so if anyone is interested in the board, contact me privately. Click the profile icon at the bottom of my post and either send me a PM or an email.
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How about a similar guide for the AF600s? Mine appear to be seized as well, unless I'm an idiot and can't figure it out.
Cause of uneven edge wear?
in Carving Central
Posted
Hehehe, I actually took off the rack because it was slowing me down too much. Car pulls much harder above 100 now :D
Anyway, no, it's not from being on the rack since I don't use it any more. It's also not from the footrest on a chair since I never use them and the burr also runs tip to tail - I'm not flexible enough to run that length of board along the footrest.