RobertAlexander
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Posts posted by RobertAlexander
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Thanks for the warning, I have been riding the MK as my go to board for years now. But still will be careful and try to learn the Madd in a safe progressive manner. This will also be an opportunity to test the Original Madd 158 alongside the MK on same day/ same hour /same trail situations.
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medi/pedi , Unlike regular salons
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Big news for Alpineboarders at Loon for 2018/2019 season is, at a predetermined week by week decision, there will be a mid week "Alpineboard ONLY" designated trail. for a mid week day. The season will start with the trail being a lower Mountain blues trail, and as the season progresses, will go to Black trails. This may be only for the morning, as the details are still being worked out. Also a Loon Mountain photographer or the likes may be present, depending on snow conditions and riders. This is happening from a recent, last year , talent using an MK and killing it out there, and happens to know the right people at Loon. This is our chance to make it happen to promote the sport, aka , keep it alive. So , If you can make yourself available to be present for these days, it will help. Probably going to be , Mon thru Fri, Non holiday. aka Bronze pass timing. I will post more information as it becomes available. Cheers, R
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Hi jack, I put the check in the USPS mail today 9/24/18 at 10:00 am this morning. I am very excited to see what the Madd will do. rob
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Board spoken for, sale in process. Thanks Jack
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I would be able to start to think about this board, If you tell what the secret is. I am guessing Aramid/Kevlar, Carbon.
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Big set of Vice Grips , extremely tight onto you best screwdriver, and use the leverage of vise grips to loosen screw, all the time putting all your weight onto the screwdriver. I had the same situation as you, and it finally loosened. Also try a can of freeze spray, onto the head of screw and T nut area, freeze spray will not harm anything like flame or heat will, if heat is needed, try a hot heat gun first. You could also flame heat up the end of a cheap screwdriver until red and insert said hot driver into the head of screw. Upside down flame as you go aka conduction and hold.
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I did plenty of research on the manufacturing side, VCM , sourcing stock materials, shop set up, plans to do the move. Made lots of progress and learned a bunch. The biggest set back for me was I could not find a second person to do the sales 1/2 of the biz. And to try to do only the manufacturing creates a whole new set of variables of uncertainty, approx. 1/2 the profits on what was already a question. I still am open for any and all opportunities, there are other alternatives for small shop fab of alpineboard bindings. Ex: you do not need to have a CNC wire bender, a manual bender can be fabbed, Have tube bending experience, Used to bend the tubes for the RL10 rocket eng . As stated earlier, there are many ways of getting something done. Time=$$
My brief conversation with both Jim and Angie, asked a few gentle questions, got some vague answers. Left me thinking , ok , No manufacturing experience what so ever. Total reality was, you do not know how to swim and you are diving into the deep end of the pool.
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The VMC is approx 5000 to 10,000 pounds, so it is best to find one local, as shipping long distances will be too expensive. The VMC fabricated the aluminum. Again, many possibilities on a VCM or similar.
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CNC machine price all depends on the machine that you are buying or building. There are many ways to do this.
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I will gladly join, maybe once the process has the bugs worked out. And perhaps a brief , how to explanation of what buttons to press and when and where. thanks
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Zero deg up front, and 3 deg in the rear, The 3 in the rear works better for me, the legs fit together better than zero/zero.
Riding a 14cm, and a 17" stance, front foot just ahead of board midpoint.
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Intuition Power Wrap, Full Tilt 265
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Sometimes if snow conditions make a good rapid fire turn run, my hands are trembling/shaking at the end of the run. Does this make me a medical carver?
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Hi workshop7, I can use all (6) of the 3 degree TD3 cant discs. Maybe a road trip to meet you, rob
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barryj on camera and editing, thanks
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emailed, 2nd on proteus, Barry, you realize the proteus is a 17 width?
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Thinking the CL stands for classic side cut, meaning single radius. I ordered one like that. a 176 with an 11.0 m scr
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Got a pair of these, New, in my exact size at a high school ski sale, just tried them and like them plenty, more heel/ankle hold than 325, I can wiggle my toes as there is more room in the front, and that is fine, as there is absolutely no heel lift/movement. I put my intuition liners in, and need to make and mount a thin inner base footing plate. After a few days, these are now my go to boots , always. They are stiffer than the 325 , but not too stiff, just right.
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May need to fab a 0-3-6 degree plate, instead of that elevated arc slot. Lock it up more for less movement, and not have the top plate on a 4 point float. imo
Unless you use fixed washer/spacers, in between.
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There is plenty of snow, good edge hold and very fast. Not any dirt spots yet on entire mountain. Some ice spots at the very bottom.
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Those heels are for Older SnoPro reverse pin bindings.
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Will soon find out today. Have had a 013 Nirvana 174 6.5+5.5 with 0.3 titanal, very plush magic carpet ride that seemingly can read your mind before you have the thought of doing something. And a new to me , to be ridden today 017 AM T 176 7.2 +4 with 0.4 titanal. Will comment tonight.
Tough to compare both of these boards as one is a Nirvana and the other an AM.
Great day, great snow conditions, very firm hardpack, 10 deg to 18 deg f all day. Rode the AM T 176 with 0.4 titanal. This board has a bigger board feel, and an overall stiffer presence. At first was feeling out how it turned, but after some time becoming comfortable with it, realized that you really need to throw your weight into it to make the 12 scr turn quickly and get a swing going. The harder you hit it, the better it turns. This AM is a carver. Very fast, very comfortable and stable. But to try to answer the question of 0.3 or 0.4, for me at this time, I would go with the 0.4mm titanal. If I can compare the 2 different boards, the 0.4mm you can throw more energy at it and it will deliver in a higher performance manner than the 0.3mm. IMO. Am 6'-1" , 200 pounds plus.
Quite a change after riding the Mk for 2 years, forgot what a 12 scr rides like.
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Got myself a Coiler 176 AMT 017 7.2 + 4 , 21.5 cm waist, looks to be a 12 scr (average measure), 265/215/260, 158 eff edge.
Planning on riding it at present 70/70 angle, or can lower to 65/65 maybe 60/60. Will play with it, see what happens.
This 2017 board was a specific order for a remake of the 2000's AM model. I always mount my bindings from past boards with 1 inch mid point setback from center of effective edge.
This board has a stiff nose and softer tail, the soft tail lessens the harsh ride in crud. Was told to mount bindings centered for mid point. Am assuming this will lessen the weight on the soft tail, and have more control on the stiffer nose. I did mount bindings as far forward as possible , and still am 1/2 inch setback of effective edge midpoint. Flexing the board by hand feels great and not noticing the tail being too soft. Maybe I'm thinking this to hard, just go ride it, yes/no?
Sold: Original Madd 158
in For Sale
Posted
That is the Plan.
There's more variability in turn shape with the Madd, and the platform just feels a little more stable underfoot. This was my pre ride thought. Due to the butterfly.