Aracan
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Posts posted by Aracan
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I may have oversimplified things a bit. I blame lordmetroland ;-) since he originally asked about counter-rotation and I found it easiest to explain in contrast to its opposite.
As to this, BlueB:
You do not necessarily need the "turning moment", even for a drifted (sliding) turn. Put the board on the edge, weigh the nose more then the tail through the beginning and middle of the turn - the board will drift.I am, alas, no physicist. But are we certain that no torque is being generated by the actions you describe? More to the point, how will the board start to drift with a weighted nose, without sideways input from the rear leg?
As described above, a standard PB heelside turn has the board tilted on edge, more weight on the front leg - but no drifting. Why not?
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Can you say a bit more about this? Where does the counter-rotation come in to play?Forgive me if I am being unclear, English is not my first language. That said:
When you want your board to make a turn (especially a drifted turn), you need to transmit torque to it.* This turning moment can originate in one of two ways:
1 Pre-rotation ("pre" because you rotate before your board does): The torso (including the hips) rotates. This creates torque which is transmitted to the board through the legs and feet. The board then follows the impulse created by your torso.
2 Counter-rotation: You push the board into the turn with your legs and feet. This turning moment must have something to brace against. You use your torso as a torque plate, so to speak, by rotating it against the direction of your turn, thus giving your legs something to push against on their upper end.
Strangely, the latter seems to be more intuitive, especially for beginners.
Also, RCrobar:
I agree with the statement above, but would like to 'split hairs' or be a bit picky with the wording; the words style vs technique in particular.I completely agree with everything you said in that post, don't know why I used "style" for one and "technique" for the other.
*You can just put it on edge, and it will carve a turn on that edge. But that is a drill, "The Norm", not what we usually do when riding.
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Whats the diff between EC and Pureboard?The EC style is about laydowns and the technique required to get them down pat.
Pureboarding is about a technique which is adaptable for anything you might encounter, from moguls to pow to laydowns.
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+1 for rotation drills on easy slopes, however boring that may seem.
I am not sure about the 50/50 weight distribution. As I already mentioned, I find toesides with weight on the rear foot work very well. YMMV.
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There is nothing wrong with that
The guys at Pureboarding strive to equip us disciples with tools for any situation at the mountain, not just to teach laydowns.
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I was at two PB weekends over the last two years. In a nutshell, there are 3 components that make up the basics of the PB style:
1. Pre-rotation. I.e. your upper body (including the hips) rotate in the direction you want to turn, then you wait for the board to follow. When practicing this, your upper body should ideally be parallel to the board on the front side (-), perpendicular to the board on the backside (+).
2. Weight distribution. Basically, you weight the front foot in heelside turns, the rear foot in frontside turns. This prevents you from going over the handlebars.
3. Watch your hands. When riding in a compact position to master demanding slopes, your outside hand should go toward the front of your front boot on the heelside (anywhere from cuff to edge under the binding, depending on how aggressively you ride); and toward the rear cuff of your front boot on the toeside. This helps to maintain the correct position. If you wash out on a heelside, your outside hand was probably in the air, waving goodbye to your edgehold
4. A wide board. This is not just for versatility (one man - one board, no matter the conditions), but also to allow really low binding angles for the rear binding - below 40°, if your feet are small enough. The front is set 12-20° steeper. The low rear angle, together with the PB style, creates a very strong frontside when you drive your rear knee towards the snow.
It is also important to note that the rotation is not as pronounced when you are riding close to the snow. When doing drifted-turn drills or upright turns on easier slopes, your torso and board should alternately form fully realized + and - signs. When riding more aggressively, the rotation is not as easily spotted, but it is still there.
Edited to add something important I had forgotten.
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Don't think so. Unless "rotation" and "extreme carving" also mean something completely different in Korea. Cross-under turns are no basis for EC.
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Or you can try to find some used Snowpro Race bindings. Rock-solid product, 6 mm bails. They have 3° inward canting built in. Usually they come with one or two sets (not sure) of 3° shims which you can use to either neutralize or double the built-in canting. I have seen NOS pairs for EUR 199, and they look a lot more durable than the F2 Freecarve.
Just make sure you get the bail version, not the F.A.S.T.
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I could be wrong about those discs as went to carversparadise.com and they only had 1 disc.I just checked and found two discs at carversparadise:
The 7° wedge: http://www.carversparadise.com/speed-keilplatte-p-1323.html
And the Unicant that is adjustable from 0-8°: http://www.carversparadise.com/speed-universalkeil-p-1591.html
That said, +1 for talking to Jörg. His buddy Remo is the one who keeps the Speed/Ibex/Burton binding available, and the PureBoarding crowd all ride those bindings.
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I rather feel my bubble is getting bigger over the years. Maybe it’s just age, but it seems to me that the number of out-of-control skiers and snowboarders (usually semi-skilled softbooters) grows from one winter to the next.
Isn’t ski patrol supposed to take care of that phenomenon? I often find myself thinking that our mountains could benefit from a ski patrol (there is none in Austria).
Edited to add that I have also taken to wearing a back protector because I started feeling naked on heelside turns.
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Judging from the design, 20 years is probably closer to the mark. Similar boards can be viewed here:http://www.snowboardmuseum.de/brand/show/id/47
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OMG, how I envy you guys on the other side of the Atlantic.
Here in Austria we are having the warmest overall year since the beginning of recording (which, before you ask, was in 1767). My home mountain is closed for Christmas due to lack of snow for the first time ever, and the gondola was built some time in the 1950s.
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I was under 40 when I registered ...
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If you are in Europe, why not get a board from Pure Boarding? Having one board for everything is what they are mainly about. And I can personally attest to the high all-mountain capability of those boards. Their product is not the cheapest, but it will cost you far less than most European custom boards - somewhere between EUR 600,- and 800,- IIRC. And having a board sent over the pond is prohibitively expensive, as someone already mentioned.
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Sorry, but as Neil already mentioned, the boot size is not 27.9. 279 mm is the outside sole length. According to this chart, this is the smallest UPZ shell and will accomodate liners from MP 22.5 up to 24.5 (US street shoe size 3.5-5.5.). The actual size of the liners should be printed on them, probably near the ankle area.
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I have a Bastard as my only board, the Two I have never tried (Bastard and Black Diamond are identical except for the top sheet). From what I hear, the Two is a bit less carving-oriented, something more of a relaxed AM ride. The Bastard is also a very capable AM board, however.
As dingbat already mentioned, the boards like to be ridden in the PB style, meaning a rather active technique with decided rotation. The angle spread between front and rear bindings makes for a very comfortable stance (unfortunately, at MP 29 I myself can't go below 40° even on the Bastard).
If you want to try it, set the rear binding at around 30°. Then set the front 10° higher and work up from there to find the best position.
If you are seriously interested in a PB board, I would suggested calling Jörg. He is a very nice and extremely knowledgeable guy.
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Thank you for the info. 24.5 waist seems way too wide for my 26 mondo boots as I have lots of extra room on a 20cm waist race board and a 21.5 all mountain board.
Then your stance is not what Jörg of Pure Boarding would recommend. The PB style demands a large spread between front and rear angles, ideally upwards of 10°, with rear angles decidedly below 40°. If you have room to spare on a 20 cm board, you must be running at least 60° on both feet, correct?
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Can you help me out with a quick sizing question? Here goes:
My wife’s head measures 57 cm. This puts her exactly on the fence between the smaller and the larger helmet. Those with firsthand Ruroc experience: Would you say that the helmets are rather small for each size, or the opposite?
Thanks
Stefan
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After every run, but only the two center buckles (not toe and upper cuff). The boots are comfortable enough to leave them closed, but I feel the pack out over the day, forcing me to tighten the buckles. I merely unbuckle to avoid that.
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Being located in Austria, I have often bought and sometimes sold stuff on ebay.de, having trouble about once in a hundred transactions. However I am not sure buying a used board from Europe would be sensible for you overseas guys. I have yet to find a shipping option for boards that doesn't make my eyes water, otherwise the BOL classifieds would never be the same for me
Anything over 3' or 4' costs an arm and leg to ship, it seems. -
Apologies for the ambiguity. I hope you didn't try it.
Nope
For starters, you might try reaching further down, until it has become ingrained. Try the toe of your front boot, or even grab the edge itself.try to reach the front boot cuff with the left on the heelside. -
I was told to kill heelside ice chatter by reaching for my front-foot boot cuff with my uphill hand.
That actually works? I have to try that.
Myself, I reach toward my front-foot binding (or the edge slightly tip-wards of it) with my downhill hand.
Helps to put weight on the front foot.
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You have 3.5 basic options regarding boots:
Deeluxe symmetrical shell (Track 225, Track 325, Free 69). These are somewhat narrow in the toe, and many people find them a bit wide around the heel.
Deeluxe asymmetrical shell (Track 700). Different feel, some like it, some don't. Less narrow in the toe, a bit less wide around the heel.
UPZ: These come in different stiffnesses (ATB: very soft; RC8: medium, RC10: medium to stiff, depending on setup). The fit is the same for all - wide toebox, narrow heel.
You may also still find some NOS Head Stratos, which are somewhere in between Deeluxe and UPZ.
I have no idea where you might be able to try hardboots, but it will be well worth the effort. If you ask me, your boots are the most crucial part of your equipment.
How do you find the Reactors for fit? Maybe someone with Reactor experience can chime in?
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from a current thread about BTS setups.
I'm not the only person who thinks the front and rear boots should be different stiffnesses.
In my opinion, the rear foot needs more flex than the front foot. That does not necessarily mean the front boot needs to be stiffer. Usually, I think, the front foot can handle the added (unused) flex just fine.
Anything over 3' or 4' costs an arm and leg to ship, it seems.
Who rides the "Pureboarding" style
in Carving Central
Posted
Over the past four years, I have seen a total of one or two PB boards in forum Classifieds (here and the German forum) and on ebay.
Another one was privately offered to me through a forum. That was it.
Seems those who buy one hang on to it (as I intend to hang on to mine).