kmagvette

Is an F2 Speedster Slalom (163) board a good board to continue learning to carve on? I am in the east where trails are narrow and crowded. Current board is a 151 FP, kinda small for me 5'9", 185, but I like how the thing carves at slow sppeds. I do overpower it when I go faster. Thoughts?

If Dave said "My girlfriend's ASS needs a helmet" then I would have been all over that link. He didn't. I heeded his warning and (apparently) made the right choice :D.

Well I guess I've whacked my head so many time I forgot where I bought my Beast and it's toys. Race Place was the cheapest at the time (7-9 years ago) when I bought it. Sure these things are a little pricey, but the convenience of sharpening/maintaining when ever you want pays for itself real fast. Last I check, shops are getting a good buck as well. Break even does not take long and the tools last if you are nice to them. I also love "Plane Beast" for shaving sidewalls when setting side edge angles for the first time. Sidewall material loads up the file and you have to keep cleaning it. dshak - check out the "For Sale" forum, someone has a 3* holder for sale with a picture. Don't want to bash his product, they have their purpose, just not a good beginner tool.

Balckbird, I would love to take credit for the marker trick, but I can't. My mentor in the ski shop turned me on to it. dshack, those extruded aluminum file holders are for people with a lot of experience and time on their hands. You need to be very careful that you ALWAYS apply the same amount of light pressure to the file or you will change the effective angle of the file with respect to the edge you are filing. The key to setting side edge angles is to use ONE tool for both setting the desired angle and maintaining it. The only requirementa are that the tool very securly hold the files and diamond stones that you will be using and that it is stable as it glides across your base. I have settled on the "Side of Beast" tool (available here) because it is easy to change the angles, it clears filings so they fall on the floor instead on onto your base, it has a largege surface area that rides on base making it stable, and it holds files and diamond stones rock solid. There are other good tools out there as well, much is personal preference for the feel of the tool (not yours ) in your hand. Be leary of tools that use ball bearings or pins (like some swix tools) as they focus your pressure on the base and tend to put dents in it - especially as you are learning.

I second that. The Cleveland Metro folks were supposed to start a race camp at Bristol Mt today. I am real glad I bagged on signing up. They are open for skiing, but any course has get rutty and rocky after only a few passes with the temps as high as they are. Cuban, are you a Metro Snowboard racer? If so, what club?

Thanks for the helpful responses, if I can work a decent deal on some I'll go that way. How 'bout Old and Stupid. I'm 43. Two years ago I got my first snowboard, a Factory Prime 151 and rode with my Technica Icon (race) ski boots - probably not the best learning setup, but my goal was to race so I got short, and cheap, race like stuff.

Sure they look cool and strong, but I wonder if I would be buying equipment that is over my head. I am a bit tired of my boot flopping around in my SnowPro LTD's even though the bails are tight. Not sure what the next board will be, but I an leaning towards a Renntiger 163SL or UltraPrime 162. I'm at the point where I can carve moderate pitches without skidding, but nowhere close to getting elbow (on purpose). Other binding suggestions are welcome.

What Talex said...plus I have been ski racing for way too many years and doing my own tuning along the way. The most effective and precise way to maintain your edges and bases is to let a good shop set your base edges and structure the base for your conditions. Do NOT let them touch the side edges. These are your responsibility. Mark your side edges with permanent marker to ensure they are left alone. The reason you do not let the shop touch the sides is that if the operator pushed the front of the ski/board into the side angle stone a bit too hard you will get a concave area on the tip, usually at the beginning of the running surface. This is the part of the edge that initiates the turn and gets your board/ski arcing. I've had two race skis wrecked by different reputable shops that let an ape work on my skis. There are many good tools available for setting the side edge angle. I prefer a tool called "The Beast". Using a coarse or medium mill bastard you can remove material in a hurry. Use permanent marker on the side edge so you don't take off more than you need to. When there is just a little marker left on the base end of the side edge, switch to a fine file to finish the job. Let the file do the work - don't lean into it. You may want to use the marker on you edges a few times during the process until you get the hang of it. Now polish the base and side edges with diamond stones. Always use the same side tool. Assuming you don't trash your edges you can keep them razor sharp with diamond stones alone. I use the perm marker here as well to let me know I have full coverage - it will also show you where the edges are damaged if you are new to the tuning game. When you are filing, file in whatever direction feels the best for you. Since you will polish the edges you don't care about the direction of the burr on your edges. Hope this helps

The cheapest citris solvent on the planet is Castrol Super Clean, K-mart $5/gal. It works really well on wax. I typically use a fine brass brush and work it in. Do not try to use this stuff on your bases. Sure it will clean them, but it will also dry them out real bad.

I assume you mean the Alp 158. I see it comes in three flavors f1, f2, f3. Any idea what these mean. Also, $850 will leave quite a mark. In addition to the boarding, I race on two sticks, multiple disciplines. The equipment expense gets kinda crazy after a while. Any suggestions for older or used boards?

Thanks Jim, I ride at Bristol Mt and Swain. The only time I see others on alpine boards is when Cleveland Metro comes racing. I have entered a few of their races and did OK. I have trouble on my 151 when the speeds start getting higher - it gets twitchy. To prove I don't know squat about boards, is Madds the manufacturer? I will look around.

If the snow is wet then use a graphite wax. Hopefully your base is black.

I'm in western NY and the only hardbotter I know of around here, so I need your help. My first and current board is a Burtom Factory Prime 151 190's. I am 5'9", 185 lbs. I can carve it on moderate terrain but would like added length for stability. I like the soft flex of the board and the short turning radius works well on our narrow slopes. I am looking for something in the 164 range. I did try an Oxygen Limited 171. I found that to be too much of a GS board for my needs and a bit stiff as well. Thanks in advance, Kevin