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Fastskiguy

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Posts posted by Fastskiguy

  1. Broken Pelvis

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Are there cracks thru the articulating surface-thru the acetabulum? If so does this increase your chances of arthritis later on? Pretty cool they could just pop the screws in without a lot of cutting, gotta be was faster recovery. I never used to think of broken bones....now I think "speed kills" all of the time LOL! Good luck on the healing :)

  2. Slalom -vs- GS

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    When I slalom ski, I spring from left turn to right turn. At the apex of the turn, the skis (board) and legs are at their maximum compression or flex. As one transitions through center, the legs and board are relaxed and one is briefly "weightless". One's mass then falls back toward earth and begins to compress into the next turn.

    There's several ways to crank good turns, I like to be a full extension at the apex of the turn...both on skis (sl and gs) and snowboard. That way you can be extending in the top part of the turn (12-3 o'clock) to press the ski or board into the snow and get it bent into a carve AND you can flex to reduce the pressure at the bottom of the turn (3-6 o'clock) to reduce skipping and chatter.

    I believe this allows you to have more even pressure on the carving edge throughout the turn. And it allows the feeling of extending down the hill at the top of the turn, totally rad :) It looks (to me) like skilled carvers do this.

    No, you are not overthinking anything

  3. Impact! Hit from behind.

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    When I lived in Colorado and rode the incredibly dangerous,shoulderless roads of Colorado on my roadbike I often wore a stars and stripes jersey because it dawned on me that no self respectin,gravel truck drivin, gun rackin,chew spittin,spandex hatin redneck was gonna run the flag off the road. By God it worked! Much more often than not I was given a wide berth.

    What's this got to do with this thread or riding on a ski hill ? Well you'd have to be at the mountain I ride to understand fully, but I'm thinking of wearing a stars and stripes vest on the hill to test out my theory tommorrow.

    Man, I've got a stars and stripes jersey that I never wear, I'm gonna have to bust it out in the spring and give it a try. thanks for the tip :)

  4. Impact! Hit from behind.

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I'm sorry to hear about all of these collisions, glad nobody has died (yet!), but it's scary...at least for this nearly 40 year old.

    Alpine snowboarders are a hazard, there is no doubt. The path down the hill is so different than other users, they aren't stupid, just ignorant. And we speed up in the fall line, then hook it until we are perpendicular to the fall line (well, sometimes), our speed down the hill varies a lot. It's confusing to others. Now there are rules about who has the right of way but even if people know the rules, most have never seen anybody doing what we are doing. Even riding with other alpine snowboarders can be dangerous!

    I think it boils down to riding defensively, *really* looking out for people who don't know what we are doing (pretty much everybody), trying to stay out of the busy areas. It is just amazing how much faster a straight liner can go downhill and if you get nailed it probably won't matter that it was his fault, it's still your injury, your damaged stuff.

    I like to say I have an agreement when I (bike) ride on a road with union dump trucks. They come up behind me, I hit the shoulder, they don't kill me. Sometimes it's not about being right. Be as safe as you can be out there :)

  6. grinding when clipping into my TD2's

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    where can I buy some of this wax? I might just give it a go head to head against the butter. Anything like ski wax?

    INTEC pins: they come quite sharp from the factory, so make sure to break the sharp edges with a file or (better) a stone.

    Lubrication of receivers: BB works ok, but after few clip-ins it's gone... However, I found that cutting/tapping/drilling wax works way better and last a good session... besides, colder it is, longer it lasts... I've got a few sticks from my workplace laying around - really nice stuff...

    And i switch receivers after every couple of sessions to keep the wear even...

  7. grinding when clipping into my TD2's

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Sounds like your shorter elevation drop has you doing a lot more in and out that I do, but it should still make a difference.

    Heh, can you believe that you wrote this? I mean, taken out of context it could leave a guy wondering. Anyway, got a trip this weekend to summit county and I bet I can find some butter there. Yeah baby! I'll get some and use it periodically....whenever the friction seems a little more than optimal.

  10. grinding when clipping into my TD2's

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I have found that these aluminium heel pieces last bout one season max :mad:

    But i'm working with alternative solution, almost there :eek:

    Well that would be OK I guess. On our short local hill we can get over 50 runs in a day in....last week was 100 runs...so it might need periodic replacement. I can live with that.

  14. Punching the boots - DIY?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Could you take a pic of this device? I'd love to be able to get a little more space in a few places in my next pair of boots without going to the shop. I like the shop but it usually takes 3 visits to dial them in and they're 75 minutes away (if I speed...usually takes longer)

    Widening would be easier than lengthening. Is that all you need? I widened my right AF-600 using a device I made to push from the inside while heating with a heat gun from the outside. It worked fine and I got about almost 1/4" of extra room. The trick is making something to push fairly hard from the inside. Mine was a couple of shaped wooden blocks with a threaded rod between them that pushed the blocks apart when turned. I'm pretty sure I've seen shop tools that do this on the internet. I'd suggest a bootfitter for a nice pair but for an old pair that cost next to nothing, why not? I don't know if a hair drier would have worked, it might have but you have to be pretty patient since it takes a while to heat up the boot. It might help to heat the whole thing up to maybe 150F in an oven first, then pull it out and hit the spot with the heat gun right away.

  15. Sidecut vs Effective edge

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Attached is an illustration with 3 overalped boards. Print, cut out and try at any inclination - they'll aways be at the same arc...

    This makes sense to me. So is there much of a disadvantage in a longer board, keeping all other things the same....kinda like the Donek FC 171 vs the 179? I know the 179 is a little stiffer but let's just assume you can flex either board....and let's assume we're carving all of the time. Wouldn't you gain some stability, maybe some edge hold? But what's the disadvantage?

  16. Drive with the knees

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I'm thinking about getting low at the transition and extended in the middle....at least for now.

    Oh yeah, and I'm thinking "get that hip on the snow" on toeside and "Hope I don't fall over again on my butt" on the heelside. Not sure what is up with those heelsides...

  17. 75 runs today

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Dude,

    Nothing like trenching up your own run. I can see 100 at Alpine, but the dizziness of round and round, up and down, all day could get the best of you.

    Alg

    Well it did get a little hard to take at about 65 runs. We'd been at it for awhile, same run time after time, and had a long way to go. But we stuck with it and managed to get'r done. The lifts are open 10am to 9pm on the weekdays so it really would be possible to do a lot more....

    Nothing like a lot of practice to learn a new skill, I still have the fever baby!

  18. 75 runs today

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    It was a tough day...the high speed lift wasn't working until noon so we had to ride the old fixed grip triple. But from 10am-5:45pm we were cruising along, busting up the 320 (or whatever it is) foot vertical. 32000 feet the hard way!

  20. The Norm and beyond...

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Ive got a great picture of me skidding to a sit after a carve (friend with the camera took the shot wayy too late, when i was already asking him how it turned out). In turning to skid/sit, It gives the appearance of the worst heelside carve Imaginable. biggthump

    Heh, well if you note the carve across the fall line, back uphill, then see that you're skidding to a stop *uphill*... it looks pretty good.

  24. Razor edges, or not?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I've had Ray's side edge bevel tool for a couple of weeks and it's working pretty well. I had to go a bit wild with my file guide and file to get the edges sharp, now a few swipes with this tool and they're ready to go. Well, maybe more than a few LOL. But it comes with a more coarse and less coarse abrasive paper, seems to polish the edge really well. And virtually idiot proof. I've never had really polished edges, it's cool.

    One thing in his directions is to use a marker and apply it to the side edge, then you can see when you have the edge sharp. Seems to help.

    Sometimes super sharp feeling edges are really burred-the fine burr from the file. So maybe you are just doing a better job than the shop?

    With diamond stones, slowly decrease the pressure as you work the edge, until you are very lightly running trher stone down the edge the last few passes...that is the best way to get sharpness from stone tuning. Also look at the Ray's Way side edge beveler tool at www.alpineskituning.com ...once your edges are shop tuned a diamond stone and this tool are all you will need unless you damage your edge. Never do more than light passes with the diamond stone on the base edge or you will alter your bevel or make it "wavy".
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