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Silver Bullet

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Posts posted by Silver Bullet

  1. So, I'm prepping for a ride tomorrow, switching the Td3's to a more turny board and realize that I did not loosen the screws last spring. As I loosen the first few I get a bit of a spark and that burnt smelling smoke. The last three screws don't come out.

    I figure tomorrow I'll pick up a 5mm hex for my power drill and see if that works unless anyone has a better idea.

    Thoughts?

  2. Brighton has some fun terrain. Great Western lift is okay for Carving, Millicent is not bad, but better on Powder Days perhaps. There are many long gentle runs, but usually pretty crowded. 1 mile down the road, Solitude is perhaps a better mountain for carving. It is sounding like a pretty big crowd will be there Saturday. There is a bus that links the two.

  3. Again, like Dave mentioned, we're "loosely" organized this year.

    Anyway, Saturday, we're thinking about riding Solitude.

    S. Bullet don't you ride Solitude quite a bit? Where's a good place to meet?

    I posted to your Hardbooter address, but will repeat here. I'm fine with Solitude or PCMR.

    The parking is a bit odd at Solitude. They take a highly organized approach. If we meet at the west end of the parking lot just above the Eagle Express lift, there is room for tailgating with Carve in Carve out potential. This can be quite nice for switching out gear because you are never more than a few steps from the slopes.

    Great runs for carving off the Powderhorn and Eagle Express lifts. Diamond Lane stays good through most of the day....Perhaps I should not be revealing these secrets...ahem

    Keep me posted on the plans.

    sj

  4. Head up Big or Little Cottonwood Canyons for BC. Look at Mill B South, Also canyons surrounding Solitude. You'll see tracks and skier cars along much of the road. Also the space between Brighton and Alta is remarkable. Wolverine, Sunset Peak, Superior etc. Try hiking from the Millicent lift at Brighton or the Summit Lift at Solitide, otherwise, you are hoofing it most of the way.

    sj

  5. Is there realistically a way to drive the board from such a relatively non-agressive position?

    Generally, one is only fully extended for a short time as you push into the apex of the carve and then pull into the transition. It is the push that keeps the edge engaged while your body unweights. This is the exhilarating part, especially if your feet are uphill of your head. The pull afterwards is the real challenge as the rider pulls in the knees while absorbing the G force.

  6. Have you ever seen a great tennis player hit only fore arm or a great pitcher limited to one ball?

    It is fun to play around and find out what you can do on the board. Carving could get old if we did not try to invent and adapt. I admit that EC got me into the sport, but I have progressed beyond it. Now I am good enough to focus on nuanced riding... trying it all out based on snow conditions and board.

    That said, I still love laid out Super G carves down the steeps.

  7. Hey Aaron,

    I'm about your same size and i have a Silberpfeil 172. It is not as damp as a FCI or II, but definitely fun. My 2006 model has pop. I took it out today and had a blast. It is carvy at slower speeds due to the tighter SCR. It rides well at higher speeds if you straighten the turns out a bit. I usually ride this board when I'm with the kids or when the slopes are crowded. It is quite a handsome board as well. I always get remarks from others in the lift line. Mine is not for sale;-)

    sj

  8. is it easier to practice on black slopes with a quick turning board or a gs board?

    A GS board gives you more time to find and maintain the correct body position through the carve, and the steeps helps you maintain speed as you carve back up hill and transition to the down hill edge. I love the steeps on my 16M GS board. Love it! Feels like riding a horse in a full gallup. Just hold on!

  9. ok so I need a skinnier board, but I need the boots to be as small as possible so my angles aren't rediculous.

    Is it a no-no to have your boots hang past the edge of the board at all? Like what would be acceptable overhang?

    I just put a ruler down and placed my feet in a 178mm width, and with regular shoes on, the angles were pretty extreme.

    Sounds like you are getting closer.

    I'd get a board that is in the 175 to 185 range with a side cut radius of 12-16 meters.(The larger the SCR the more you use your legs to decamber the board and force a tighter turn.) Look for a waist width of 19.5 to 21.5 cm to put your feet in the 50-65 degree range.

  10. I got the impression that longer boards will be better for speed and holding an edge in not so perfect terrain. I've just been reading, I have no real experience.

    I do have semi-large feet, about 11.5-12.

    You can haul on any length of board. I'm 6'2 190 lbs. and selected an F2 Silberpfeil 173cm and an F2 Speedster 183cm board when I first started. The boards feel different enough. The 173 at first was easier to ride in softer snow at lower speeds with larger crowds. The 183 has to be ridden fast to turn it and feels more damp on hard snow. Knowing what I know now, I would pick a metal board. They are much easier on the legs. The difference is like riding a full suspension mountain bike or a road bike. The metal just feels soft, smooth and cuddly at speed, the non metal is more snappy or lively and will pop you between turns.

    I can imagine that a metal board would easier and quicker to build confidence on, but you might not learn proper technique???.

    As for the foot size, my feet are the same size and I sized down to a 28.5 cm boot. The angle I have to ride to eliminate boot out are between 65 and 70 degrees, which seem to be pretty steep. I could imagine the with ski boots the angles could be 75-80 degrees because the length of the boot sole is so much longer.

    I had been riding for 24 years before getting a full blown setup. It does take a bit of adjusting. Don't give up on the first day if it does not feel right, because it will on the second day;-)

  11. I have recently switched from step ins to the TD3 standard bails. After riding about 5 - 10 days this season I noticed that the bail was no longer tight... loose enough in fact to move the toe end of the boot around. Have others experienced this? Is it due to the block sliding, the bails bending or the boots twisting?

    Just want to know what to expect and look out for. I am riding Track 700s on TD3 standard bails if that matters.

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