shawndoggy
-
Posts
715 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Profiles
Forums
Posts posted by shawndoggy
-
-
And finally... a link to some other ti hardtails for sale (complete bikes, all):
If it were me, I'd see tear down the frame, buff and polish it out, get a new sticker kit from Kona and then see what it's worth. Sounds like the parts are throw away?
I'm guessing $500 for a SWAG valuation.
-
And here's a tisports auction on ebay right now -- the build kit on that bike is worth close to the guy's asking price alone.
-
LOL, that $1000 mention was in 2005!
I'd think you'd have a hard time getting that much unless it was in exceptional condition. If the stickers are all scratched up and parts are worn, I'm doubtful that it's in perfect shape.
Titanium has a habit of seizing with parts like bottom brackets and seatposts unless anti-sieze compound is used, and even when it is used, you need to refresh it now and then. I had a heck of a time getting a BB out of a very well maintained ti roadie a few years ago because the installer hadn't used anti seize compound.
What fork, brakes and components are currently on the frame?
Take a pic and post it on mtbr like that first thread. Heck, post your pic in that first thread so viewers have a point of reference (the frame in the pic looks really nice).
-
I've used this with some success when awake at night with a coughing fit:
Make a paste of 1/4 teaspoon of red pepper, 1/4 teaspoon of ground ginger, 1 table spoon of apple cider vinegar, 1 table spoon of honey, and 2 tablespoon of normal water. Mix them well and take 1 teaspoon of this mixture whenever you have cough problem.Don't know why, but it does seem to work. Probably because it tastes so awful you forget about your cough.
-
Alrighty, found something else...a Cannondale F5:
http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/09/cusa/model-9FS5.html
What do you guys think? It felt really nice to me :)
Perfect. Just add pedals and shoes and you're set.
-
Those look a lot like a pair of late 90s Raichle step-ins that I sold Algunderfoot, 'cept those did have real metal under the plastic. Yours look to be all composite.
-
Bikes are almost never worth upgrading... the best bang for the buck comes at the initial purchase. It just won't make sense two years from now to put a $300 fork on a used $500 bike. You'd be better off selling the current bike and getting a new one.
Full suspension bikes are awesome, but they are also maintenance hogs. There are a lot of bearings, bushings and moving parts. All those little parts wear out, and so do the shocks. Cheap ones wear out faster.
Especially when you don't really know much about bikes, the chances of a lower end full suspension bike turning into a squeaky creaky hunk o junk are pretty high.
A rigid (no suspension) bike on the other hand is lighter and doesn't have all those moving parts. So they can generally be kept running well year after year. Or go single and REALLY have low maintenance. This one ($350 mailorder) is cheap enough that even if you hate it you could probably re-sell it for $300 on your local craigslist.
-
Shawn, why do you think the Coiler helped take you from newb to competent?
superior edgehold with metal, and in my case a medium-ish flex which let me initiate turns without going balls out fast.
I've also ridden one of the new school prior metals -- the 177W with the decambered nose. Great edgehold, but it's a stiffer board. I know what I'm doing now so I don't mind laying into it a bit to make it turn, but that board would've been scary had I not developed some competence on the AM-T first.
-
Coiler AM-T took me from newb to passibly competent last year. I'd get on Bruce's list now if I were you.
-
Amen.
I ride my bike to work in the summer time. I do not pay for a gym membership or work out. I do not pay for a car. I do not pay for public transportation. The best thing about it is getting to work faster than you can by car/train/bus/taxi (in NYC anyway) and having fun doing it.
Bikes are the shiz!
+1. Lots of my friends are apalled at the thought of riding "in traffic." But really that's half the fun. There's a jedi element to mixing it up with cars even out here in BFE NV. I'd imagine pedalling the streets of Manhattan can be a real hoot.
-
Damn...I wish I had $1,200 layin' around.
I've also seen some online discount stores such as Bikes Direct:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mountain_bikes.htm?gclid=CPKRjoTJ75oCFQkzawodHQ8BIw
Would this be a smart way to go about buying a new MTB, or do you guys tend to opt for an in-store purchase?
This is one of those "do as I say not as I do" things because I'm the king of buying bikes online. For a first bike, there's a lot of value to buying from a well regarded local bike shop (LBS) over on online retailer or big box like REI/Scheels/etc. A good local shop (and you'll have to ask around because there are surely bad ones too) will give you good advice in bike setup. Lots will even switch out seats and stems to get you properly fit, sometimes even after you've ridden the bike a bit. And they will also maintain the bike for a time after the sale. Hopefully they'll even take your hand a bit and teach you about maintenance too.
The stuff on bikesdirect is really an incredible value (and I'd love to get one of those single speed 29'ers for $349), but they aren't there to maintain or set the bike up for you and they aren't there to make sure you get the right size. Those two things can make a great value a blown purchase.
So why do I get bikes online or mailorder? Back in the day I worked at a shop. I've got the tools and I think I know what I'm doing as far as setup goes. And I've been riding long enough to know what size bike I ride.
-
Oh and it's far from the last thing you need. With a good bike, a car and a gym membership are the last things you need.
-
but I'm really getting interested in mountain biking. I've seen that some of you are into this scene. Maybe you guys could help me out? I know practically nothing about frames, suspension, etc. I'm looking for something that would be good on mtn trials as well as something I can use on campus (lots of uphills).
Is there anything in particular that I should be looking for? I've seen that these bikes are usually priced around 5-700 dollars plus. I'm not planning on getting anything soon, so I've got plenty of time to look.
At that price point you will not get a bike with a good frame and good components and suspension, unless you go used (which I wouldn't recommend). But you can get a rigid (no suspension) 29'r (road bike sized wheels). Something like this one from GT (these go on ebay for 5 bills pretty regularly, last I checked). A rigid bike is going to have fewer maintenance issues, and they work just fine for having some fun on the trails.
I wouldn't go lower than Deore (shimano) or X7 (SRAM) components. Everything else isn't durable enough to hold up off road. At this price point, components being equal, frames are gonna be about the same too. Fit is more important than the frame material or weight. Get a bike that fits you so it's fun.
For a "real" full suspension bike with modern suspension tech and good components, expect to pay $1200+++ (sweet spot re bang for the buck is right around $2K IMHO).
-
Yes, it's called quadrax glass.
I think a glass board can be made as torsionally stiff as a metal board, but not nearly as damp.
later,
Dave R.
isn't it the rubber that makes 'em damp, not the metal?
-
I'd totally be down for that, esp because the computer can act as a dvr and I've got an HDMI out to the tv. Unfortunately the Mrs. is dvr-dependent and can't imagine functioning without her current dtv dvr. Gah.
-
On the hill don does have a knack for being able to articulate quickly and precisely what his students are doing (and doing wrong) and can convey the message in a few words and a few "like this!" follow-me moves.
He's way more "talky" or theoretical in this thread than he is on the hill. Even "master carvers" would be served by his keen eye. But it is good to know he knows WTF he's talkin' about.
-
You can go Bob's route for $17 and take your chances, but I don't think you can ever get it clean again if you've let it go funky. Get a new one for $25 shipped here: http://www.backcountry.com/store/CAM0158/CamelBak-Omega-HydroTanium-Hydration-Reservoir.html?CMP_ID=SH_FRO001&CMP_SKU=CAM0158&mv_pc=r126
This is why I never fill mine with anything but water anymore. Sugar in the tank is terrible unless you are extraordinarily religious about cleaning it every time... and lets face it, your question suggests you aren't. Some people on mtbr.com also suggest throwing the CB in the freezer after every use, but I don't know whether you have access to one.
-
my solvent medium for bike chains is a little different -- 4 parts odorless mineral spirits, one part mobil 1 motor oil -- but the concept is the same.
-
or you could do what I do
1) remove wheel from truck,
2) remove bearings from wheel, place in jar or isopropyl alcohol for rainy day, dead of winter and your ankle is broken so you can't go snowboarding time to do the above steps
3) Replace bearings with new ones (or bearings you have done above cleaning to)
4) Put wheel back on truck
5) repeat as necessary
for what its worth I buy bearings in Bulk from different places (MHS, VXB, Pleasure Tools etc) I have 11 sets (yes 88 bearings) of clean ready to go bearings in my toolbox. When I can hear or feel that a bearing is problem I follow the steps above...my quiver now stands at 8 boards but I am expecting the UPS man to arrive with a board (and a Split) shortly
I chatted with Karl a few days ago, I know he's coming how to Needham soon and he's planning on staging a race when he does....I am hoping I can attend
LOL, that's quite similar to what I do with bicycle chains.
-
Thanks WC, that's what I was looking for!
-
I respectfully disagree with this. Without pressure modulation or some rotary movements of some kind board pitch ( angle to the snow ) makes very little difference to the turn particularly on a long SCR board.
But is it possible to highly angulate the board without putting more weight into it? I'm just thinking you'd fall over if you didn't.
-
Wow, most of those bikes are hella old. Seriously, the only one I see that's worth considering is the 20" trance, assuming it's your size. That's really like a museum of failed suspension designs, or a progression of all the worst designs that didn't work. Coupled with outdated components.
Which I guess is the same as the metal coiler vs. '99 ultra prime debate. Lots of the bikes on that site can get the job done, but nearly none are cutting edge. For comparison's sake, I'd recommend my old Gary Fisher Sugar over ABSOLUTELY ALL of the inventory (other than the Trance) on the site. And I sold it for $600.00 on mtbr.com.
I'd like one of those old specialized M2's but for sentimental reasons not because it was such a kickass bike.
-
John, wow, that's rad video quality from a little cam like that. How were you holding it on the following scenes? Were you skidding a lot to keep the guys in front in the frame?
-
BB,
I came off a Santa Cruz Heckler ('00) single pivot with 4"....
Which was a rad bike in its day too, so the observations about how much better the new stuff is are well deserved.
MTB Frame Value
in The Lodge
Posted
Yeah, if it's that old... I just don't see it being worth much more than $500, especially if it's in "beat" condition. 60-75% depreciation on a ten year old bike is par for the course, especially with
No warranty
well ridden
old school geometry (those frames are set up around short-travel forks rather than the 120mm+ longer travel forks that are in vogue today).
But that doesn't mean you can't go ask you local shoprats for a grand and see what they say!