Buell
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Posts posted by Buell
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I know there aren't many 22.5 mondo boot hardbooters out there but can anyone use these?
Price drop to $100+shipping. I am also taking offers.
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SOLD
Based on the interest in the Phantoms, I figure I'd offer these boots.
I have a pair of never used, never molded 2018 Atomic Backlands Ultimate AT Boots, mondo / size 25.
Includes brand new Palau liner, stock liner, and boot gaiters.
Super light touring boot.
Ideal for splitting. Just add a Link spring system from Phantom. No other mods necessary. Its the basis of Phantom's new split boot, "the Slipper"
PM for photos.
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SOLD
Phantom Splitboard Bindings for AT boots. Size small fits 23 - 26 mondo AT boots. $200
1 Phantom adjustable board cleats. $100
3 Phantom solo cleats Preset forward angles of 24,20,18,12. $50 for set of 2
2 Dynafit toe piece with splitboard adaptor $70 each
2 Phantom heel risers. Cut down for shorter boots. $40 each
I would love to sell this to one buyer and will discount the total. In combination (depending on your angles) this gear will completely set up 2 split boards for touring and riding in AT boots. It's a cheap way into touring with AT boots.PM for pics.
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Excellent condition. Comes with two sets of shims but they are missing 2 stocks mounting screws. I have screws and lock washers for them, they just are not stock. PM for pics
$140 shipped
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bump for small feet!
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He would have known Bomber, but not necessarily ASB. He is not really paying attention to the newest stuff. He is a Purecarve guy who left Aspen for Powder Mountain. I got him on a Coiler after he tried one of mine. He is also a surf legend who pioneered Blacks in San Diego and then moved to Hawaii in the '60s.
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2 hours ago, softbootsurfer said:
Like this shot here from Naotos page of Yutaka doing a Cutback...
Beautiful shot!
Sweet frontside cutback!
Wait, or is it a backside turn?
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I should add that I don't really care what someone calls a turn on a snowboard. I use toeside/heelside, but it's not like frontside/backside is confusing. My only point is that they are not interchangeable with the surfing terms of frontside/backside.
Yes slapo, it is a very cool pic!
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When snowboarding meets surfing (on the best bank / snow conditions I have ever found).
To use surfing terminology, here are two frontside turns. One is a frontside bottom turn and the other is a frontside top turn. In snowboarding terms the first one is a toeside and the second on is a heelside. If the terms, frontside/backside from surfing were applied to this sequence the way they are being used to describe snowboard turns of heelside/toeside then these two turns would be called frontside and backside which is incorrect from a surfing perspective.
Terminology aside, I consider this an epic frontside wave bottom turn and off the top!
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In surfing, the rider is going down the line (not down the fall line) and is either frontside or backside. While going frontside or backside the surfer will make turns that are essentially what a snowboarder might call toeside and heelside. Surfers call them top turns and bottom turns and since the turns are happening at the top and bottom of the wave, those terms work well for surfing.
Frontside/backside are not descriptions of a specific turn on a wave, they are descriptions of which way a surfer is going on a wave related to which foot they have forward.
Typically a snowboarder is going down the fall line. It is not the same orientation as going down the line in surfing. It doesn't make sense to use the terms frontside turn or backside turn because alternating turns would be frontside/backside/frontside/backside....down the fall line. The snowboarder turns going down the slope are the surfing equivalent of top turn/bottom turn, not frontside/backside. But top turn/bottom turn makes no sense when going down the fall line on a snowboard. That is why snowboarders use the terms heelside turn/toeside turn. Those terms make sense for snowboarding and that is probably why, even though plenty of surfers also snowboard, heelside/toeside are pretty much universally (at least everywhere I have been in the US) used for snowboarding.
Now if a snowboarder finds a nice bank that is frontside or backside and the snowboarder gets to make top turns and bottom turns, the surfing terms make sense and are often used along with hoots of joy!
In my avatar, if I was surfing, that turn could be the beginning of a frontside bottom turn or the end of a backside top turn. It is not necessarily a frontside turn. In snowboarding it is simply a toeside turn.
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I could immediately carve tighter and better in hardboots than softboots and my softboot carving improved once I had ridden hardboots a couple of times. It might have just been my focus on studying technique before I stepped on hardboots improved my carving overall.
I started on hardboots trying to ride shoulders perpendicular to the board. That made an awkward softboot technique.
Fortunately I quickly switched to shoulders perpendicular to my binding angles for both hard and softboots.
Oh, the burning quads of those first few days!
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On 3/20/2019 at 9:04 AM, daveo said:
Like @jburk said I also think medium will be too big. They're only just small enough to fit a mountain slope .951 shell B in them (25.5-26.5).
I have seen medium F2s listed as 21.5 - 27.5 and 24.5 to 27.5. Not sure which size range is most prevalent, but I think it is the 21.5-27.5.
Medium F2s fit my wife's Deeluxe 22m and Head Stratos Pro 22.5 just fine.
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1 hour ago, workshop7 said:
I just read this from Jack’s original post. It’s the funniest thing I’ve seen in some time.
That's funny, I know BGnight. We have had some great days together in the backcountry. He seems to enjoy stirring things up online. Quite a bit different in person and a very good rider!
Dan, (I assume you are dan_pdx) nice work with the reply!
BGnight way above Mono Lake (not that anyone cares, but I still love this photo)
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On 3/18/2019 at 11:51 AM, 1xsculler said:
It just remembered these words from a few posts back, “finish the turn” and it just dawned on me that this is THE hallmark of a well carved turn. Anybody, even me, can carve in the fall line and then skid out when I have to control speed but finishing the turn by even pointing it up hill a little when necessary has just become part of my consciousness. I am a slow learner. What more can I say.
Another carver will be joining me here at Crystal tomorrow. Should be good for learning.
What you describe is losing control of your speed. It happens sometimes. The better you get, the less it happens. The easier runs you ride, the less it happens. You could always follow the example of the young softboot carvers who get going too fast after two carves. Hammer a big groomer powder slash to throw a bunch of snow and make you skid look cool.
Losing control of your speed is completely different than being able to still make a hard, speed control carved turn after picking up speed making more open turns. In that case, open turns are just another option for playing on the terrain!
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31 minutes ago, daveo said:
I suspect the biggest problem is a recent one, and presently more people are aware of carving than ever I think. But, there are now specific softboot carving boards. The lower the barrier to entry (not just cost, but dauntingness, nerdiness, social outcastness etc.) to carving so much more than hardboots. For someone to get into hardboots, it seems they need to be 100% certain that's the road they want to take, but why bother when you can have the best of both worlds?
Why bother with hardboots when you can have an SG Soul Titan 159? It can ride the whole mountain arguably better than hardboots, including powder better than most freeride decks and it can carve as well as a hardboot board (almost).
I also think this is a bigger issue now. Yes, you can carve harder and steeper with hardboots, but with the popularity of making carved turns by the general softboot community and the improvements and versatility of softboot gear, hardboot gear is less necessary.
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Nothing prevented me from carving. Near the end of my first year I figured there had to be more so I googled "snowboard carve" and ended up at the Extreme Carve website. Then I found BOL. I had boots, bindings, multiple used boards and had made my first hard boot turns before the end of my first season.
If you want to hard boot, thanks to the internet, it is not that difficult to accomplish with a little initiative.
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Sorry to miss you this year! We just got back to Oregon.
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Regarding bindings, it is more than lateral flex that is important. That is one of the short comings of the SWs. You want some flex around the entire circle. I expect the most flex should be in the lateral direction decreasing as you travel around to the least flex in the toe / heel direction. The rate of change in the flex should be reasonably consistent (there should not be any quick changes in the flex over a few degrees). In particular, the direction of the long axis of the board needs some flex.
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16 hours ago, Chouinard said:
Test Findings:
1) Without plates the board feeds back surface chatter after the groom is destroyed.
2)The plates with any color bumpers stiffens the board.
3) With plates the ride is much smoother [ride impression].
4) With the orange bumpers the ride is as smooth as the red but feels softer [nose/tail flex].
5) Moving plates closer together nose-to-tail makes the the board as smooth but even softer.
I completely agree with 1-3 and never tested 4 and 5 (I fixed your numbering)
Did you have any thoughts on edge change effort and speed? What about slow speed turn initiation on cat tracks and such?
I find it requires more effort to switch edges and I lose a bit of edge change quickness with the plates on. I also find slow speed initiation to be a bit more difficult (though nothing like an isolation plate).
5 hours ago, RCrobar said:If you always have nice snow, not ice, and don't have boot out and are good with the board's flex ... I'd take the plates off.
I generally ride good snow and prefer riding without Geckos. If I had to ride bumped up snow I would probably accept the added weight trade off and use them. I wish they didn't trap so much snow under them.
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2 hours ago, JRAZZ said:
I've found that a softer boot/binding/board combo seems to fit me better. It's easier for me to turn and control. There is this "stiffer is better" mentality sometimes and you might be tempted to start stiff and learn through it. Probably not a good idea. If I would be starting today I would stick to a soft setup until I knew better what works for me.
This is good advice for someone starting out. ^
It sounds like your boots are probably pretty soft? Do they have a spring system to control the forward flex or the ability to install one? A spring system that allows you to flex your ankles easy could go a long way to making you feel more comfortable. As you improve, you can stiffen them up as needed. The harder you can push your gear, the stiffer you will want it to be, but for now, especially for all mountain riding, softer flexing gear will be better.
As I believe has been mentioned, a newer AM board could really help too for all mountain riding.
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35 minutes ago, Lurch said:
Buell I had wondered about adjusting lift/cant on the Phantoms - is it as simple as shimming the locking plate to match whatever lift/cant wedge you use under the bail block?
Pretty much. There is a plastic shim under the locking tab. I am pretty sure Phantom has different thickness shims available depending on how much lift / cant you use. You might also need to change your screw length depending on if you are using the fixed angle or the adjustable angle locking plates. The lift / cant shims sit under the toe and heel blocks so you have to remove them to adjust lift / cant. I think most Phantom riders just stick with the stock inward cant wedges. That is what I have done.
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Head Stratos Pro 22.5m
in For Sale
Posted
yes, I still have them.