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zoltan

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Posts posted by zoltan

  1. I'm wondering the same thing. Last ride I went out on I felt like I didn't know what the hell I was doing. I had changed my stance quite a bit (noth feet in a forward stance, whereas before a more duck footed stance), but it felt so sloppy and like crap really. I noticed that I was putting alot of weight on my front foot and had to really concentrate to put weight on the back.

    Stance? Board? Not sure.

    How long should a board last?

    This is a regular softboot board by the way.

    What are your angles now?

  2. Background- softbooing since 1991-current, East Coast slopes and icy narrows.

    I do not not ride the park and just love to ride. I ride an aggresive stance. I am 6'4 and 250 poundish. My current ride is a Burton Canyon 168. I have graced the forum here for about 3 years and am ready to jump in. The problems I see is my size factor. I want to start pieceing together but already seeing problems to start. I spoke to the guys at Prior to have a board done but of course the best start will be boots. I have seen a few threads about a few things but no real answers.

    My dogs are a 13.5-14. I have tried the sizing chart, which would be a 31. The only boot that would be close is the Head Stratos and it comes in a 31.5 which may work. My concern is are they strong enough. I tried 31 at the local ski shop but are very snug but it is a ski boot. Similar? Looking at the TD3's, same thing, will they house the the boot. It says contact Bomber for possible options for over 30 Mondo. All in all I am not feeling the warm and fuzzy going into this. So, there it is in a nut shell. I did't mean to single Jack out but he seems to have good responses and looks like he has written a few actilces and could answer the above qestions.

    Thanks again for reading.

    Head Stratos Pro

    As has been already mentioned, you first need to measure your feet in cm (mondo). You simply cannot go off of shoe size, since it's just too inaccurate. Once you have your real size, then you have a starting point.

    Yes, the boots will be strong enough.

    While I'm pretty sure the TD3 can hold a size 31, I know the SnowPro and F2 Titanium bindings will definitely hold a size 31.

  3. Jack,

    You seem to be very knowledgeable on all levels of the carve. I called Bomber and they are out for the week as I am sure most of you are for the event. I would like to ask you some questions off line if that is possible.

    Thanks Scott

    I'd encourage you to ask your questions in the forum, so that way someone else might benefit from it as well.

  4. I'm looking to buy a Burton Fish 156. It doesn't need to be in great shape, since I'm planning on cutting it in half for a splitboard project. Please contact me if you have something you'd be willing to part with.

    zk {at} korossy "dot" org

  5. If you lay your board on a carpet and boot out at +60 or +70 degrees I figure that is ok on all conditions except glare ice.. and if you can carve at 70+ degrees on glare ice .... well you are my new idol.

    At 70 degrees in chalk ..well you won't be arcing higher... and in packed powder if you arc higher.. the board will be so dug in that your boot likely won't unset it...

    That has been my experience. I set my hardboot boards to boot out at about 60 degrees and my softboot decks to boot out at about 55 degrees.

    If you flex the board into a thin rug and tilt it up.... and the boot hits the carpet... the angle of the board at that point shows where you would boot out on ice.

    This is a great post, and answers something I've been wondering about as well.

    Instead of flexing it on a carpet, buy a cheap angle meter for less than $10:

    2045z.jpg

  6. if you need a narrower or wider stance get a board that is designed for your preferred stance width. hence i ride my burton ultraprime with the 16 inch REFERENCE stance and suffer with the constricted back leg. otherwise i would have to stop riding the ultraprime and that ain’t happening lol.

    Out of curiosity, have you tried your Burton with a wider stance?

  7. I started riding hard boots on a stiff soft boot board as well, and while it eased the transition into alpine, getting on a real alpine board was a game changer. Do yourself a favor, and don't stay on the Yukon too long.

    Just have your bootfitter double check to make sure your boots aren't too big.

    With feet that big, you'll need a wider waist. Fortunately, both Donek and Coiler can make a custom sized board for you at no extra charge which will accommodate your foot size.

  8. I don't mind the over sized zip ties. They've never given me problems, and I can adjust them by a small amount more easily than normal buckles. On the downside, they're hard to loosen up just slightly, and getting repeatable tightness is problematic. I wouldn't spend the money to replace them.

    I don't enjoy walking in my boots regardless, which is why I keep a pair of a lofted booties in my pack. I may look like a dork walking around in booties, but they're comfy and I look like a dork anyway.

    Don't ride in walk mode or powder mode. The adjusters can break, and if they do, it can do bad things to your leg.

  9. There will always be exceptions to the rule, but with the Thermo Flex liner they get pretty close.

    I've used both Thermoflex and Intuition liners in a variety of both hard boots and soft boots, and in my experience, they are much less a cure-all than they're made out to be. The heat molding process will definitely fix places where they're too tight, but won't do too much for places where they're too loose.

    I know Deeluxe boots work well for a lot of people, but I think there are better options for people with wide forefeet or narrow ankles.

  10. The boot fit instructions only work for some people, because it only takes into account the shell length, and not shell volume, and the Thermoflex/Intuition liners can only make up so much volume. In my case, the finger test showed I fit the size 27 shells, but because of my narrow ankles and lower volume foot and calves, I had gobs of heel lift even after molding the liners.

  11. I had the oppertunity to spend a lot of time with the Head, UPZ, and Deeluze SB boots all in size 27, so I went ahead and took some measurements to see exactly how different the shapes of the boots are. Hopefully someone will find this helpful picking their boots.

    - Tongue of Deeluxe SB and UPZ is 0.75" taller than Head.

    - The cuff height on the sides is equal between all three. The tallest cuff height in the back is the UPZ, with the SB being 1" shorter, and the Head being 1.25" shorter than the UPZ.

    - Head forefoot is 0.5 cm wider than Deeluxe SB. UPZ forefoot is 1 cm wider than Deeluxe SB.

    - Size 27 Head heel is roughly same as size 26 Deeluxe SB heel. UPZ heel is about 2mm narrower than Head heel.

    - Both Head and UPZ cuffs are much lower volume than Deeluxe SB. The Head cuffs are narrower, while the UPZ cuffs are shorter front to back.

  12. Would someone with size 26 Head boots do me a kind of big favor? :o

    Could you pull the liner out of one of them and measure the inside length of the boot? This is what I'm talking about:

    head.jpg

    I know it's supposed to be exactly 1 cm shorter than the size 27 boots I just received, but my boot fitter said, due to various reasons, the difference is frequently more or less than 1 cm.

    Just trying to see if downsizing would even be plausible...

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