F2 Conshox Help Needed!

[Guest bassmxr19]

Any help will be greatly appreciated. I'm trying to mount an F2 Conshox to a Volkl Renn Tiger 168. Do I hard mount the back of the Conshox plate (where the threaded inserts are) to the board? Then use longer machine screws to mount the binding to the board, through the Conshox (through the slots)? Won't that take the flex out of the system and defeat the purpose of having a suspension plate? Won’t a hard spot be created if I screw down both ends of the Conshox? How do I do mount the one binding without pinching the Conshox between the binding and board? I understand the whole floating principle, but the connection of my rear binding has me worried. The slots are there to provide some relief of creating a hard spot, aren't they? And the next thing, the Volkl's inserts are spaced weird or the Conshox is drilled weird or maybe both. Because neither of any holes drilled in the Conshox nor the board will line up. Or is the Conshox only supposed to be used with F2 boards? Anyone ever deal with this problem? Thanks in advance for any advice. Johnny

[Vahur]

Do I hard mount the back of the Conshox plate (where the threaded inserts are) to the board?

You mean front? Threaded insert side of conshox will go to front, slots rear. Front of Conshox is attached to board, front binding to Conshox and rear binding is attached through the slots to the board. So far I haven't noticed problems with 'hard spots', only additional stiffness and stability :).

And the next thing, the Volkl's inserts are spaced weird or the Conshox is drilled weird or maybe both. Because neither of any holes drilled in the Conshox nor the board will line up.

I use Conshox with F2, so I don't know, how well it would fit other boards. But unless Volkl uses any other system than 4x4 (but only other system I know is Burton's 3D, used only on Burton boards AFAIK) it should fit there. What do you mean exactly by 'neither of any holes will line up'? In case of 4x4 binding distance should be 4 cm (1.57 inches) between holes, but I doubt that it is something else in Conshox or board. Only problem, which I could imagine, is that if you mount front of Conshox, then (some of) board's rear inserts will appear under Conshox and won't be accessible through slots.

[Guest bassmxr19]

Thanks for the quick reply. The biggest problem with the Volkl is that the inserts in the board do not go narrow enough to Accommodate my stance width, so I opted to use a Conshox to narrow the stance options on the Renn Tiger without having to put inserts in the board. But ran into a bigger problem with the Conshox in just trying to understand how to mount it.

Do the bolts (screws) you use to attach the rear binding to the board (through the slots on the Conshox) bottom out in the inserts in the board? How do you keep the board and binding from pinching the Conshox tight when all of the binding screws are tightened? Most of all what kind of bindings are you using with this system? And what kind of F2 is your Conshox on? Thanks in advance.

[Vahur]

I don't think, that Conshox is supposed to float that much as you imagine, as it would leave rear binding open and moving/rotating and it would be Bad Thing . This pinching shouldn't be problem, I'm sure, that F2 engineers have figured it out, after all snowboarding ain't rocket science :D So you should not bottom screws to inserts, instead there should be some space left (at least one thread, as with usual mounting).

I use currently F2 Intec Titanium bindings, previously I used F2 Intec Titanflex (for which I bought separate screws, as thanks to higher binding plate original screws, provided with Conshox, were too short). And I mounted them as usually, tightening screws as much as possible (without overdoing it) and checking them from time to time. My board is Silberpfeil, which is Conshox 'compatible'.