newcarver Posted November 20, 2007 Report Share Posted November 20, 2007 What can I expect the first time I ride my race board with hard boots compared to my standard ride? Have never hardbooted before. Bought an older race board. Current board that I've been riding is an Arbor A-frame 162 with Drake matrix bindings and Burton Carbide boots. Are there any certain things that I should know to make my first time better? Certain things that will be more difficult/ easier? Have the race board set up with about 48 and 46 degree angles on the bindings and a 17" stance. This is for a 156 board. Will these measurements work well to start? Thanks. Oh, forgot to ask. Would it be best to set up the A-frame with hardboots and plates first? Then try the race board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrobb Posted November 21, 2007 Report Share Posted November 21, 2007 I was going to suggest you try your last question. Try it on a board you know what to expect from. You'll be able to see directly the performance upgrade. I'm currently riding an A-Frame 170 in hb's...(just got a Renntiger to step up to). With the wide board (A-Frame) don't try to go too high with your angles. Whatever you can get with toes and heels just at the edge. Me in 12.5 (29 mondo I think) I run 50f 40-45r (from memory I'll check at home). I tried 50+ but when I edged, the side loading of the boot onto my legs was scary. I dialed the angle down till it felt right. Right off the bat, your quads will burn...even after a full season of softie riding I switched to hb's and the first two runs I was aching. I now use BTS and it's much more ergonomic on the Sazukas I have plus I like the flex for some stance adjustment. Even though your 'Frame at 162 is a bit longer than your Rossi, the effective edge is way shorter (I'd guess 20cm shorter) than the Rossi. You'll notice this once you go to the Rossi that you have a ton more edge hold and you should be able to rail much faster and harder. Sure you can just jump to the Race board, but one added benefit I found with hb's on a traditional board...better pow performance. My Frame 170 was a tank in the pow. Too stiff, no taper, not much setback and a small nose. It killed ice and groom and was a dream to launch and land but pow...not so much. In hb's though, every little shift and stance shift (front-back) it amplified and transmitted directly to the board. For me (200lbs) it made my Frame behave like it had more taper, and a bigger nose. And tree riding is so much more precise than before. Many peeps don't like hb's for pow, but I like em for everything...especially pow. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newcarver Posted November 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2007 Thanks for the info. I think I will try it on the A-frame first and get used to the feel of it before mounting up the race board. Might even get another set of plate bindings so I can use the A in pow and the race for cruisers. Still have another softboot setup for everything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Bullet Posted November 21, 2007 Report Share Posted November 21, 2007 I would suggest going straight to the race board. Your angles do not sound very steep at all so you shouldn't have any rotation/counter rotation or balance issues. This is what plagued me at first, but my angles were set at 68 degrees. You will get a better sense of the "norm" on a board with more torsional stiffness. Your hard boot setup may overwhelm and twist the softer board which could prove difficult on heal side turns. If you are a confident rider who can carve well in soft boots, then jump in with two feet and let her rip! Good luck and let us know how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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