BlueB
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Posts posted by BlueB
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On 5/20/2024 at 7:19 AM, Rob Stevens said:
We’ve had some success by ensuring that we’re the only ones on the mountain
The groomers are less than ideal, however
See you next year
You never know... Few years ago I was hit from behind and injured, while standing still, on a heli trip. True story. Oh, and I had yellow jacket.
By participating in sports we accept the risks that come with it.
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I looked at online pics of your ski boots. They seem to be identical to Mindbenders, minus the lock/walk latch. Since they don't have solid spine, they would flex forward, I'd imagine. They might work, after all. I still think you'd be better off with snowboard specific boots, though.
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4 hours ago, Pansersoldat said:
When I bought my ski boot online I converted by shoe size. And I checked it by crudely measuring my foot at home. But last time I went skiing i went to a boot fitter to get their opinion and they said 28.5 is my size and my ski boots were a good fit. My ski boots have no walk mode. The reason I say that I could fit into 27.5 is that I went on a different ski trip this spring and when I got rentals they only had 27.5 so I wore those and tightened up the buckles alot to keep my toes from smashing on the front of the boot. And I found them so be alot more precise then my ski boots but less comfortable for prolonged skiing, and when not skiing. I have no access to any other ski boots other then the k2 recons I have. I say I'm a light weight because I'm about 6 foot and weigh about 125-130 lbs and doing a rough measurement on my feet again they about 10.75 inch.
Fire your bootfitter. 10.75" is 27.3cm, right between Mondo 27 and 27.5.
And yes, at 6' 125lbs, you are lightweight
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14 hours ago, Pansersoldat said:
Having ski boots i know that my condo is 28.5 and i do know i can fit into 27.5 if need be but that requires some really good heel hold so that my toes don't touch the end of the boot. I asked about the liners because I thought heard some where a certain brands will have a small range of snow sports boots that use the same shell but have different thickness liners for different sizes.
Also thank for clearing up my. Confusion about the bails
Typically, 28 and 28.5 is the same shell, different liner thickness. Have you actually measured your foot, for mondo, or just converted from street shoe size?
Do your ski boots have walk mode? If not and you are a self-described lightweight, you'll struggle without, on anything but hardest, smoothest snow.
Put your foot into 27/27.5 empty shell (no liners), toes touching plastic in front. If you can stick 1 to 2 overlapped fingers (palm flat on your Achilles) behind your heel, the boot will work for you.
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On 5/18/2024 at 12:35 PM, Pansersoldat said:
so, I have a set of ski boots i really enjoy and i am looking to get back into snowboarding without having to buy new boots and looking though the forum and I was drawn to the possibility to be able to get back into snowboarding without having to but a new set of boots and bindings. i do have some older snowboards that I am endeavoring to use. and one of the most helpful posts i found was one by JKarve where though for a different reason he was looking at the possibility of using ski boots as his hardboot and the post gave me hope but with more research a few questions came up to me.
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does this include Grip Walk soles or does this apply to only touring and alpine soles?
I am in a position, if in needed to, to make a front pad that matches the design of front rocker of my boots if need be or even just buy a set of alpine soles to use while using the hard boot bindings.
2. seeing as there seems to be some older brands of bindings. are bails standardized in a way that they are interchangeable between different brands?
my current boots are 2023 k2 recon 100 with grip walk soles
the current bindings I am looking at in order of probable affordability
- f2 carve RS
- used catek OS2s
- bomber TD3 standard
- bomber TD3 side winder
I'm currently leaning toward the f2 carves because they cheaper and still have many of the customization options.
Any help given is appreciated
Edit: used catek OS2 is no longer under consideration due to the only used models found being step-ins.
I assume those K2s are alpine touring boots (AT)? I use K2 Mindbenders and I like them a lot. However, I had to make a spring system, to replace the lock/walk latch that boots came with. The locked mode was too stiff for all-around riding and unlocked was too soft for just about any kind of riding, especially backwards flex (extending the foot).
Carve RS are great for freeriding, or if you are lightweight. One of the best bindings if you are going to ride a standard snowboard at low angles. Otherwise, for hard charging on a narrower carving board, get the Race Ti.
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1 hour ago, Jack M said:
He made a typo in explaining what overhangs. Talks twice about rear boot.
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3 hours ago, Jack M said:
Centering the boot on the binding and centering the binding on the board is a good practice, but not the only way. Then both your feet are aligned and levering the board on the same axis. Due to the hourglass figure of the board, this usually results in your front foot toe and rear foot heel being inside the edge of the board - "underhang". You can compensate for this by moving the front foot toe and heel blocks forward, and the rear foot toe and heel blocks rearward. This way you can really geek out and zero in on a stance that minimizes both binding angle and underhang.
John Gilmour of Madd Snowboards stamps his name on this as "Gilmour Bias" but he didn't invent it. Maybe he was the first to describe it online. You can search that term here and see his thread about it. I've tried it (before reading about it) and I'm not sure it amounts to a hill of beans for my riding. YMMV
I think he actually tries to have front toe underhang and rear heel underhang, for what he describes as "G" bias.
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And finally done... Staff only closing day was a success, few hours of riding and BBQ
Snow was getting progressively slower through the day, but fun never the less. Nidecker Spectre was the ride of the day...
Anyways, thanks everyone for the season, see you next year, if not for one last ride at Whistler, in May.
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Yup, it was a lot longer pond and hard run-up with a carved corner. Lots of people didn't make it across. 4807 performed like a star, as usual. A sasquatch was spotted, too. Note to myself - dress more often like one - when random girls start asking for photos with you, you are doing something right
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Don't concern yourself with the angles at all. Set the rear boot to the edges, or slight overhang, front boot to desired splay and go ride. It works for any board width. Our bodies are super adaptable. After few runs you get used to any new angles.
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My buddy Alex is officially a snowboarder now - can link the turns down the Easy Rider. Panorama was a bit more challenging, but he made it down in one piece
Thanks to Patrick and Luka for taking turns in keeeping company to us. Thanks to Rod for donating a snowboard.
My teaching board today - Arbor koa Munoz. She's such a beauty!
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It was a fun day, today. Fast, almost frozen snow in the am, a bit mushy in the pm. Run of the day: JJA, mogulled up. The Spectre excelled in the afternoon stuff.
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Hmm, time to sell my Volant?
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Nice morning carving, with Patrick and few others, yesterday!
Toy: the baby Coiler VSR
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10 hours ago, Hug Masso said:
Yes indeed, we NEED TO TALK ABOUT JAMES CHERRY.
Why do we need to talk ABOUT James, when we can talk WITH/TO him, right here?
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It was great to be back on snow, last night!
Heavy stuff, but better up on Sky. Run of the day: Rippcord.
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59 minutes ago, snowburn said:
I wouldn't worry about softer bindings. Boots are flexy enough. At your height 20 1/2 inch stance 40 deg posi posi is a good start
I disagree. Hard boots have very little lateral flex. At low angles that needs to come from somewhere - the bindings.
Angles have very little to do with the rider's height, but with the board width and the boot size. Splay is the key to having some extra rotational mobility. How much, is the matter of the rider's anatomy.
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Go softer with the bindings, like F2 Carve RS or Burton Race Plates/Ibex. Set your hard boots as soft as possible. Even walk mode on the rear...
158 sounds like good size. However, the length is not as crucial as the flex and the width appropriate for your boot size and the angles you want to run.
Set the rear boot to slight overhang, then front to the desired splay. With very low angles, you need less toe/heel lift than on race board, but you might want some inward canting on the rear. If duck, you can go flat, or just inward canting on both.
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2 hours ago, nicholaswmin said:
Some of it comes from those "Midweighting" videos.
It's probably the best to skip those all together...
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3 minutes ago, nicholaswmin said:
The early edge-change that was recommended earlier, as I understand it, means changing your edge as you're travelling across the fall line instead of while you're going down the fall line. Unless I'm misunderstanding this.
The person in the video doesn't look like he travels across the fall line at all.
I didn't see a single turn where the edge was changed down the fall line.
With symetrical turns, it is impossible to not travel across the fall line, when making a turn. Of course, the board can come to perpendicular to fall line, or to stay short of that, or even travel a bit uphill, but it would always cross the fall line. For clarity, let's exclude the kind of line where your general direction of travel is diagonal to the slope.
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4 hours ago, nicholaswmin said:
I've been impressed and confused - these are cross-under turns. The unweighting is done using the rebound of the board?
They aren't even S-turns. I change edge across the fall-line. This guy doesn't even go across the fall-line...
Looks like cross-through to me. Some get closer to cross-over, some to cross-under, as the terrain and tempo dictates. And yes, board rebound should be used in high level riding.
Your last sentence, I don't quite understand... Actually more like, last paragraph.
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Can we keep it in one thread?
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Waterborne surf adapter?
in Summer Carving
Posted
I agree with sofbootsurfer. Fancy stuff is not needed if you know how to set up your board. Wedge both trucks forward, soft bushings fwd, hard rear and pump away. If you wanted it easier and starting a setup from scratch, put a Bennett in front, Saismic in the back... and hold your hat!