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JJFluff

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Posts posted by JJFluff

  1. Well folks you can get down the hill ( almost) on anything but luckily I get to test 50 to 70 different boards per season and many times identical shape boards with very minor changes internally which can really make a noticeable difference. If you are having that much trouble with one board and not the other , it is the board. Good technique can make most things rideable but still not necessarily enjoyable. There are some real dogs out there so beware. My perspective is totally different and its not because I don't have enough work! Many times I'll read about someone having trouble with one thing or another and no way would I put up with it and that is why I started building them in the first place. A properly designed and built board is almost like riding on auto pilot where you just worry about what you want to do and not what the board tells you to do.

    BV

    I hope I am never on autopilot.

  2. Totally not true.

    Obviously the person and technique make a big difference, but different boards have very different characteristics. I started out on a 178 Proton, and hated it because it does have the propensity to get stuck in a carve. I love Prior because they are totally opposite in that regards. In terms of transitioning, riding, etc., board selection makes a huge difference, hence the awesomeness that are metal boards.

    The width of a board, how the bindings are setup, every thing that you can change, including our technique, has an impact, and to dismiss everything to technique, is somewhat silly, even though it does play a significant role in how one rides.

    I agree, I was trying to make the point that every board can be mastered. By changing technique, a board that may react differently from another can be ridden with similar results over time.

  3. I have been riding for 17 years. During that time I have been on 5 different boards. Point being, its not a board problem. Unless you bought it at walmart and it has metal edges it will ride just fine. I find that this forum pushes people to blame gear way to quickly when maybe it is just putting more time in working on something that is not that easy to perfect.

    No offense to anyone, but transitioning in between turns is all about body position and not the board. Keep what you have if that is the only problem. If you just want another board to play with buy it. But don't think the board doesn't transition well, or let anyone else tell you it is the board. It's lack of experience either with riding or the board your on.

  4. I've ridden both tds, and burtons, names aside, I prefer the flexier binding because I have become accustomed to them. They allow the body to move more freely above them as well. Not just the reaction time alone from binding to board.

    I think some of the best hardboot riding is that when you can't even tell from a distance that the rider is on hardboots, its smooth, fast, and effortless.

  5. I think the turn you are describing is the turn I have been trying to progress to over the last few years. I know the feeling you are talking about - you let the board go further out in the middle of the carve, and towards the end it naturally and effortlessly carves a really smooth, fast track and ends up under you with very flexed knees (and then you can fall over the board in one movement to start the next turn). Instead of feeling like 10 Gs of force and tons of power sometimes it feels like the board is on smooth rollers.

    The whole thing has a much more relaxed, effortless feeling to it,and you can ride with your arms down by your sides instead of albatrossing all the time.

    Yeah, it looks like this:

    toe-heel.jpg

    You can see how far the board is in front of the stance at the end of the turn.That is what helps to make the transition effortless. You just have to be ready for the pop and then roll over, landing in the perfect position for the next turn.

  6. Ron's a great guy and loves to ride. Fluffy seems a lil defensive.

    Sorry to offend. I apologize. Like I said, I'm sure he is a stand up guy. But... he does have The carve father embroidered on his jacket, so by doing that, you need to allow yourself to be put under some scrutiny. Don't you think?

    Just a first impression, over the internet. It's nothing personal. And I'm sure I'll get in trouble for saying this much, but... just what I thought when I first saw the jacket, thats all.

    Fluffy.

  7. Stuck in a carve..very familiar feeling. Taper seems to help with the release. I really should jigsaw some taper into the tail of my burton, it's pretty badly damaged back there anyway..See what happens.

    I think what you're talking about is simply spending more time in the fall line to pick up speed before transitioning. When you say decompress, I assume you mean relax, and you probably reduce your edge angle, loosening up your turn radius. Now we're on the same page. Never understood the compression talk before..

    I still am not sure we are talking about the same thing. Maybe we are, not sure. I'm trying to say, that when entering a turn, toeside for instance, by dropping the knees to the snow, while keeping the shoulder parallel I find it harder to be in total control of the speed, direction, and duration of the turn itself. I'll ride the fall line at times as well, but just feel that I can react much quicker to changes in terrain keeping everything working together. Of course years of practice help too.

    I certainly am not looking for a tapered board.

  8. I *think* I saw JJ at SES 05. If it was him, he rips.

    I agree with JJ that a more upright upper body is preferable and imo, more balanced and efficient, as opposed to bending too far forward at the waist.

    I like knees apart though, or at least able to act independently. Sometimes they end up together:

    image.php?u=5&dateline=1225724621&type=profile

    The main thrust of my separate the knees article was to get people out of the 90's style of riding with the back knee tucked firmly into the back of the front knee, and held there as if by velcro.

    Nice knees Jack. :biggthump Anyways, I have been working seperating the knees/shoulders parallel this year as well. I was out tonight in icy conditions and made a few turns actually. It is definately a different feeling all together. Not riding that way that often I still feel like once I'm in the turn, I'm there to the end. I've used the phrase, "trapped in the carve". Do you know what I mean. I would guess with more mileage that feeling would go away? It feels like all or nothing to me. Fall line riding. Now, I've never seen video of you, but you do look much more comfortable in pictures than many others due. Of course, you have a lot more experience than many others. I plan on playing around more with it, but still find to have more freedom with less severe angulation with more weighting and unweighting kind of like a skier would ride/carve.

    Just curious if you know what I mean about feeling "trapped" or stuck for the duration of the turn.

    Also, fyi, I really am not pushing my knees together, they just end up there.

  9. Hey.

    I really like your riding style (you are "Milwaukee Jon", right?). What do you mean by that last sentence: "stretch out near the end of turns to move some of the force off the edge when needed"? Do you mean stretching out early in the turn so you have leeway to suck your knees in at the end of the turn when the pressure is building up, or do you mean something else?

    To answer your previous question of when people overpressure the nose:

    I think that happens when boards are very stiff. If I recall correctly you are on a fairly soft Burton board and weigh a reasonable amount, so you can properly decamber your board with your weight in the middle. I think a lot of people (like me) are on overly stiff boards for our weight (I'm on a GS race board from F2 and I weigh ~140lbs), so really the only way for me to get the thing to bend a tight turn on the steeps is by diving on the nose. If I don't, I can lean the board over and it will just track a fairly straight line (Jack's trigonometric article about sidecut radius and angles notwithstanding). If I dive onto the nose a little bit too much and hit a soft patch, it will fold the nose and throw me over the handlebars.

    Hi Ken, you got the right guy, we rode together in 05? I guess what I mean when I say stretch out is on toe sides by stretching out in certain situations it moves the center of gravity, or maybe center of mass? further away from the edge which keeps you from "tipping over the edge". In icy conditions, you may end up on your chest, but when actually riding snow, it just helps to keep the board in the turn longer? I'm not very good at explaining it. It's basically just decompressing near the middle of the turn, than the body stays where it is, and the snowboard is accelerated through the turn, which basically puts you back in a compressed position.(knees closer to the chest) If you can visualize what I am trying to say, good job.

    This picture shows it pretty well. Now if you can imagine the ending, the body slows through the turn, the board accelerates to lead into starting the transition. Granted this is riding in God's Country....Aspen....where there is no ice, no matter what the locals say, but even on hardpack it works.

    And for those of us who ride after January thunderstorms, it can work on those days too, you just have to commit to the turn and don't be tentative. As soon as you hold back, you're out of position, and the edge slips. I'm sure everyone who rides crap knows what I mean.

    IMG_4121.jpg

  10. Not asking you to change, just like talking about technique. One thing though, With the style I ride with, I also find it easier to maintain a turn to end everytime, if I want to. At the same time the turn can begin or end at will. That was what I was trying to say by getting trapped in a carve.

    But, I'm not trying to be an ass, just passing the time talking about carving.

  11. You don't have the ability to do so when your knees are jammed together like yours, and you cannot unweight as easily, therefore leaving that "stuck in the carve" feeling.

    My knees are not jammed together, they do end up next to each other though. And if you get over the fact that the knees are together and look at the whole picture, from head to toe, the body compresses, like a spring. As I enter a heelside for instance, I rotate or open into the turn with my upper body first which follows to the hip, the lower body follows. All of this occurs simultaneously with the body compressing down with the movement together.

    It is a very simple, natural movement. Weighting and unweighting is very easy and you are always in a good balanced position to make adjustments, both up and down, and the ability to move the board forward or backward below you which will move the pressure to where you need it on the edge.

    It's just one good way to ride, we are all here to enjoy carving after all. And for some this could be the ticket.

    Think about it, your board is decambered and will just stay stuck, but when you take the weight off the board, it recambers and no longer has the tendency to turn..until you reweight the board on the new edge.

    The board is never decambered when in contact with the snow. The board decambers at the end of each turn which is used as a springboard to help with quick turn initiation. That is where accelerating the board below you comes into play. It can help to complete a turn early to help tighten the turns and transition early. Its a lot of fun.

  12. Oh yeah, I've tried both techniques, and your right seperating the knees adds more pressure to the edge. I have found that it works great for fall line riding. For me it feel like you get trapped in the carve. It puts you at mercy to the board. The turns don't feel as dynamic to me. I just find with a more upright riding style you have more freedom to ride the terrain vs. the fall line. It's almost like the style came out of the race course. I'm not racing, I'm riding the hill or mountain.

  13. I prefer diving as well. Makes for some great faceplants that really "woo" the people on the lift!

    I am also becoming familiar with the 'body-neutral' driving the knee's scenario with the board more out in front. Makes transitions super-fast...and probably wrong.

    I think it is a combination of both Hotbeans. Depending if your setting an uphill edge running across the fall line, or pointing more down the fall line. "Diving" is a great way to enter the turn when the nose of the board is already falling down the fall line, as you are exiting the turn, allowing the board to accelerate past your body in the radius of the turn puts you in a great position to absorb the snap that occurs to help transition the board. I think when you dive into a turn and then don't move back on the board this is probably when too much force ends up damaging more than helping. Both the turn and the equipment. The body is still driving down line while the board is struggling to move across. The two forces act against each other.

    I try, when riding, to apply only the pressure needed to complete each section of the turn. I think that is why the shoulders parallel to the slope doesn't fly in my book. Not to mention all of the angulation. I find at times you need to "stretch out near the end of turns to move some of the force off the edge when needed. Just how I've always done it.

  14. As Geoff says he is a blast to ride with and a good Ambassador to the sport.

    It's good to want the sport to grow, and I can tell from his video he is a high energy guy, and probably a blast to ride with.

    I try to be a good ambassador to bringing back the carving movement myself. I feel the best way is to be open to as many riding styles as possible and realize that one style doesn't suit everybody. That is the only reason I question certain riding when I know another method works great as well, and know it could help others enjoy carving more.

  15. Remember that sh!t storm about the knees together from a few years back you got in? I think that would pale in comparison to criticizing the Carve Father. :eplus2:

    Yeah, that was fun, I love technical threads. Anyways, that thread wasn't just about riding with the knees together. The knees end up together by the way the body is positioned through the turn.

    I'm sure the "carvefather" is a great guy, but he must have a sore lower back riding hunched over all the time. With a more upright body position you can substitute angultation with more compression to shorten the body and complete the high speed turn, in my opinion. I ride on ice all the time as well, in fact right now some of the ice balls are the size of baseballs. So I have had to make due for a long time. The fact is there is more than one way to effectively ride less than perfect conditions.

  16. When does one put so much pressure on the nose that it folds. I have never come close to being so much on the front of the board that this would occur. Is it by accident when this is occuring or is it a technique during the turn that causes it. I think if you are putting that much unneeded pressure on the nose than you need to think of moving your weight a bit back.

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