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dhrracer

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Posts posted by dhrracer

  1. Antique/Vintage Alpine Snowboard Trader | Facebook     Marketplace Hardbooters M365 | Facebook    Welcome to Gumbo LTD - (bomberonline.com)    These are other places to follow/pay attention too. My suggestion would be to start with finding the best boot that fits your needs and I would lean toward the softest boot/freecarve boot. They will be the most learning friendly. Like anything the higher the performance something is the less forgiving it will be. The boot may also play a role in what binding will or maybe not work. I know you were looking at the bindings on the Coil 165. Burton's standard was a 3 hole pattern but 4 hole discs for Burton bindings are available/do exist. After finding boots then look for the board and then bindings. Or hopefully a whole package. I will keep an eye out for you.

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  2. You mention a length but do you have an idea of width, sidecut radius, effective edge etc? All will have a significant impact on how a board will ride. What size of boot and stance angles? Is something with a 215mm waist to narrow? Do you have a brand and or binding bolt pattern preference? Would an older Burton 3 hole pattern work?

  3. On 1/20/2021 at 7:19 AM, gilesl.2011 said:

    Have a pristine board from 87' that I had on display. Knocked it over and shattered the bindings.......like glass. Never saw anything like it. Looking to replace with Burton bindings from the same era. Thanks 

    Strap or plate binding? I have a set of 5 hole two strap bindings from about that era. Might be a little newer but not much.

    20210125_133914.jpg

    20210125_133929.jpg

  4. On ‎3‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 8:20 AM, wjholm said:

    I have a really good/fun problem....

    I just dropped a load of cash to reserve a spot at Great Canadian Heliski for next Feb!!

    I am very blessed to live on a ski hill here in the midwest, Granite Peak, WI.  I'm out solo or with the family several times a week - walkin/out from our back yard.  When I moved here about 12 years ago I switched to entirely hardboot and carving  I became obsessed and never really spent much time on skis since.  I didn't even bring skis on my regular trips west, never enough powder days to be worth having another board.  Since booking this trip, I dusted off the soft setup and bought skis.  Several people have suggested that I ski on this helitrip.  Here is the problem------ I don't really feel good in soft boots anymore and skiing isn't really tripping it for me either.

     

    So....????

    For those of you with experience, do I buy a new powder board that will work well with plates and hard boots?  Any suggestions??

    Do I get better on my skis and use the equipment they will provide?  I've been pleased with how well I'm skiing after being away for so long; I'd be ready by next season.

    Or, bring my soft boots and use the boards they have??

    I've been told that a snowboard of any variety (except a split) can be a challenge if you get stuck in a traverse or flat!

    I would stick with all my own gear, gear I know and won't have to get use to. I have been using hard boots on every thing for the last 20+ years (boots are the older Raichle 121's) then I would bring a pair of soft boots just in case. I have not read all the posts but I would add in a pair of three piece collapsible poles with large baskets (for the flats/traverses). Just don't ride out front of the group unless you know for sure there are no momentum traps, take clues from the guides tracks. Skiers don't always look at the terrain the same way a boarder does so keep that in mind. A split board or maybe even Verts might be used at a last resort if trapped low. If you don't have an all mountain board and only carving boards I would defiantly look for something. Don't feel like you have to go with something new just the right length and condition. Remember the driving force to wide skis and rocker is do to how boards have performed in powder. A small pack with spare googles, gloves and a hat even if you wear a helmet. Also a place to store layers that you will be switching out. One last word! Squats, Squats and more Squats! 

  5. On ‎3‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 3:11 PM, zacksonfire said:

    So after years of jealously watching you hardboot guys tear it up, I had chance to demo some stuff from Jim at the end of last season. And holy sh*t I haven't had that much fun in a long time. Bought boots on the spot; I've skiied my whole life, and I know just how much of a difference a good pair of shoes makes. Now I need something to start sliding on; a buddy of mine has been super cool about letting me borrow some stuff here and there, but there's only so long you can spend with someone else's girlfriend before it starts getting weird ;). So. If anyone's got some stuff they're willing to let go of to help a newbie get started, let me know =D.

    For the record, I'm 6'1" 220# with a racing background (skis, but hey...it helps) so I'm definitely not scared of big, burly, and fast. 

     

    Edit: Can't spend more than $500, hoping to find something in the $300-$400 range so my girlfriend doesn't kill me.

    Tell us a little more about what you have demoed, what do you have in mind to what you might be looking for, did you use a set up with the bindings mounted flat or did you have cants, what binding angles and what boots and size do you have? I may be able to help you out. In the Seattle area. I would defiantly be in your price range (shipping $ unknown). The board I am primarily thinking of is a Burton Coil 172 w/ Burton Race plates. Board geo. Overall Length 1725mm, waist 215mm, side cut 10.26m. Not a race board more of an all mountain carving board.

  6. On ‎2‎/‎22‎/‎2018 at 4:06 PM, Zamboniman said:

    I am looking for an Burton Ultra-prime or something in 165-168 with at least a 20cm waist ( the old orange ones?)

    for riding on east coast ice and crud-crap snow conditions

    also any older 97 blue metalflake asym factory prime goofy 159 i would love to have as a throwback board for cruising

    How about a Burton Coil 172 Green top and bottom, Overall length 1725mm, Running Length 1460mm, Nose Length 180mm, Waist 215mm, Sidecut Radius 10.26m. Board is in excellent cond. It's in Washington state 

  7. It's ok, I feel the urge myself as well. I never would have said about myself that I have self control... I guess thats what happens when you really want to buy yourself some land.
    Once again Thor scores,I am going to be sending him whay I dont need and then whoever needs something Thor can be the source!
  8. I have an assortment of Burton cants and parts I will try and get pics up in the next few days.What I did when I wanted a 3deg in a four hole pattern was to get TD 1 second board kit then with a 3/8"thick T1 aluminum plate adapted Burton Race Plate toe and heal pods the Bomber cants.I'll post pics of these too.

  9. The new chair will ruin the northback and push more people out of bounds into the Valley of the Cliffs.Even on a snowboard the northback was not hard to get to.Yes if you wanted to go all the way to Lower North it meant ridding the bus back to the base,but that is what kept the fresshies there for more than one run.

  10. I need the 4 hole metal insert for the standard Burton cant plate.

    I can trade for a 3 hole (I have several of them) or buy outright. They look like this:

    You might want to let everybody know if you want the 7degree or 3.5degree.The 7 is about 17mm at the thick side and about 8.5mm at the thin side.
  11. I had two of that excact board had to send both back to Burton.Both boards bases were very concave,from edge to edge there had to be an 1/8" gap between the base and a sraight edge layed across the base from edge to edge.I wouldnt buy another.

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