Wolf
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Posts posted by Wolf
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15 hours ago, SCHMD said:
Also, am I better off modifying Bomber receivers or Intec heel receivers?
I found the Bomber receivers were easy to modify (just time consuming with the tools I used). And, importantly, the stack height of the heel receiver came out just right when fitted to Cateks without needing to make any extra provisions to change their height, such as extra shims. So, I'd choose Bomber just because I had no issues modifying those.
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Here are some photos of my Catek OS2 bindings with Bomber heel receivers. The second photo shows the original parts on the left and modified parts on the right. I just used a Dremel tool and a round file to remove the material shown in blue in the last photo. Widening the tapered holes in the red breaker bar was the most difficult, using a combination of Dremel and rat tail file by hand. A little red magic marker covers the silver color where I removed aluminum.
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The tandem trucks to transport the cable are pretty cool. A single heavy-haul truck couldn't make the turns up the mountain.
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It looks like about half of the movement is in the slide mechanism for the toe pad adjustment. I'm not familiar with F2 bindings but I expect there's no way to snug up that part of the movement.
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All - I really appreciate all of the good advice! Thank you.
jburk - Do you mean these screws? Mine are flat head.
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47 minutes ago, SunSurfer said:
4mm or 5mm plate?
The flat sections at the front and back measure 5mm thick, so I assume that's the spec.
I like the idea of trying the board without the plate. The board I used the most this year is a Donek FC (metal) 163. This Rev is an oddball 160, so pretty close. Nose side cut radii are similar(7.5-FC, 7-Rev) but the Rev probably has a larger tail side cut. Widths are similar (19.5-FC, 20-Rev). The Rev is a little stiffer so I should get the feel of that. I also haven't used the F2 bindings before.
I have lots of time to think about it because the season here is done. I'm waiting until next season unless I take a big trip.
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I just bought a Donek Rev 160 with a Bomber Boiler Plate from Chris C (photo below). This will be the first time I'm trying a plate. I know the Boiler Plate is an old design and plates in general seem to have lost that "must have" appeal that they once had. But I thought this would be an interesting new thing to try with a pretty cheap investment. We do get some days here with a little freshly blown, groomed snow on top of some uneven refrozen granular. The plate might make those days less fatiguing when I dig through the new snow.
The instructions for the plate are still available on Bomber, and I understand how the pieces stack up and mount, plus the need to get everything aligned. But I'm wondering if there's any guidance on where to start for center-to-center distance for mounting the plate to the board (choices are 56, 59 and 62cm. My thinking is since the board is a short 160cm and I'm a wimpy old guy, 56cm might make sense to let the board flex more easily?
Also, I ride with a 50cm binding-to-binding stance width. Do I want to start with my bindings at that width, centered on the plate? That would have everything centered, maximum flex for the Rev, and my usual binding-to-binding stance width. FYI, I thought I would use a set of F2 Titanium bindings initially. My other choice would be TD3s (not the BP version).
Thanks for any advice y'all have.
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It could really discourage lift line rash if you put a spiked wheel on it.
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5 hours ago, Corey said:
I think they were nickel-plated aluminum. Raw aluminum is fine in snow.
I think you're right. I checked with a magnet and zero magnetic attraction. Even stainless (unless a high-$ marine grade) will have some magnetism.
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I had some with quite a bit of plating corroded off. I tried cleaning it up with a powered wire brush and found that the steel scratched easily in areas where the plating was missing. The steel substrate appears to be fairly soft. So, I would try a wire brush or steel wool, but start gently. I ended up painting my plates to make them look better, but the paint chips off too.
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I wear old school ski gaiters. They're handy for snaking the Intec cables through. I'm also usually the only Alpine boarder, and everybody recognizes me since you can see the entire hill from the base.
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If you have a short run with a short lift ride, how about strapping a GoPro (or cheapo clone) to a tree and riding by it for a few runs? It won't pan and follow you, of course. You could probably rig up a cable lock if there's a concern about someone taking it. You got me thinking because the round trip up and down my little hill is 4 minutes so I could get several runs in one video.
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6 hours ago, Jadyn said:
Do you know if they have a smaller sole?
I have read that UPZ boots have a shorter sole length versus Deeluxe/Raichle for a given shell size, but I don't know what those sizes are. Your 192 / 312 could be the first data point if we can figure out what those numbers mean.
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A while back I worked out that the maximum boot sole length for Catek OS1 and OS2 short plates is about 301mm. Here's a post showing how I got to that number:
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A little annoyance to watch for is that the size adjuster knob on the back of my Smith Camber MIPS helmet has a nice grippy, rubbery surface. It's great for getting a grip on when wearing gloves. But, that wheel gets enough grip on my collar that the adjustment will loosen up as I rotate my head from side to side. It would be better if either the knob were harder to turn, or if the surface were less grippy.
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Interested, PM'd you for more info.
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Wow, TD bindings were $309 then, $525 now. Interestingly, Fin sold F2 Titanium bindings then for $269 and today they're only $20 more ($289) at Donek.
Thanks for posting this, centsless.
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The old Burtom race plates are still being sold, now rebranded as IBEX Speed CC. Carvers Paradise has spare parts including the bail. Did your bail break? Race plates are pretty light duty so you might want to consider a binding upgrade if you're an aggressive carver.
https://www.carversparadise.com/en_US/products/speed-cc-rear-bail
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Do these lines running up and down the hill count? (It's a short season here)
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I'll offer an alternate viewpoint. New equipment is definitely safest, but your old stuff might get you going if you accept some risk. I still use Raichle boots of the same vintage as yours. The plastic does get brittle with age and depending on how much heat and sun the boots have seen. I've had two boots crack but neither break was catastrophic. I could tell something wasn't right and could ride to the bottom of the hill. But I'm on a small hill, parked close, and keep a spare set of boots in the car so a boot failure doesn't end my day.
Your bindings are probably old Burton Race Plates. They are best for lighter, less aggressive riders. The metal bails can break, but the most common failure is the plastic toe levers. I'd put your bindings in the freezer and then try attaching the frozen toe clips to your boots and see if the plastic breaks. I'd say those toe clips are a bigger risk of an injury-causing failure than the boots. I'm no oracle, but the only toe clips I've seen broken were maroon in color. Other colors may age better. Also, I've read that the clear plastic baseplate covers are also prone to breakage.
You can get 4-hole Burton disks for your bindings.
If you don't ride aggressively and just want to get out on the old stuff, what you have might work. But newer equipment will be both easier to carve and safer.
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CB - You mean you don't really use the stomp pads as name tags for Sparky? I'm devastated.
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Here's a competing product that you can get without having to buy bindings, and it's 9x12 inches for those really big feet. But I vote for any product that's endorsed by Sparky.
Link to: Foam Sheet - it incorrectly says it's 2cm thick, but what's a minor factor of 10 error?
(I actually do make stomp pads out of this stuff)
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Step-In - Fintech // Intec Compatibility
in Carving Central
Posted
One more photo showing what I mean with the height of the heel receiver. You can see that the sole pad on the toe of my boot sits nice and flat on the toe block of the binding. The toe wouldn't sit flat if the heel were too high or too low.
(Good thing I have these photos stored)