GV27
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Posts posted by GV27
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Surf board wax sounds like a perfect solution of that. With sand in it just like you waxed up at the beach.
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Definitely measure your feet. For Mondo sizing all you need is a metric tape measure or ruler. Your Mondo size is simply the length of your foot in centimeters.
Comparing to your shoe size is a lousy way to do it. No two manufacturers sizing is the same, some people like their shoes big, some small, some where a shoe that's too long to compensate for a wide foot, etc. etc. They've got the Mondo sizing down to a fairly exact science. You really don't want to be in a bigger shell to compensate for a wide foot or whatever else - you want the correct shell size and a boot fitting if you need more width somewhere. And Thermo-mold liners.
Chris
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Bump - still looking for one or two of these.....
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Hi all,
Posted this last year to no avail. Hoping for better luck this time. Need two of 'em. Willing to buy one at a time though, obviously!
TIA,
Chris
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Man, If I were coming in to Colorado from out of town to spend a week with the family, I'd get the heck off of the "beaten path" of the I-70 corridor (Winter Park, Loveland, Keystone, Breck, Copper, Vail, etc.). Those just get mobbed with folks like me from Denver. How about Telluride. Getting sorta expensive (swimmin' pools, movie stars) but nothing like Aspen. Lifts are right in town. Or what about Crested Butte? Right outside of town, absolutely gorgeous, no Front Range crowd. Durango is good too - you could stay in town and take the shuttle to the mountain. All of these places have great towns with PLENTY for the gals to do plus great terrain served by less-crowded lifts.
Or, dunno what your little girl is into but be a hero to the Boss by taking her down to Taos in New Mexico. Indian jewelry, mystical spa treatments, art museums. Wife heaven. Stay in town and take the shuttle to some of the country's best terrain.
None of these help you pick up your Donek in Kansas though.....
Chris
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Sorry my post wasn't more clear - I need BOTH 3-hole and 4-hole.
Want to sell one of your 3-hole discs?
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Hey we're still open! ABasin is 100% open and 8-12" predicted for tonight and tomorrow.
They will be open full time until June 5th and then open on weekends until at the very least July 4th. After that, we'll see but we have excellent coverage. Steamboat team says the snow is great!
It was mid-season conditions up there on Saturday and Sunday. Powder/Packed Powder and snowin' like crazy.
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Anyone remember how the landscape change forever when COPPER installed the Super Bee six-pack?
If this were happening at ALTA, I am sure management would run the chair at a reduced speed OR load every 2nd or 3rd chair to preserve the conditions for their riders.
You're being sarcastic, right?
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My Rocky Mountain Super Pass this year was like $370 or so. Winter Park/Mary Jane and Copper, plus a few days at Steamboat and a few other perks.
My older son will be in 5th grade next season, which means he gets a pass good for three days at most Colorado mountains so I don't know what I'll do next season. Maybe buy some 4-packs at a few different places and the get the best deals I can scrounge at the rest? I don't know - it's a dillema. I've had a Jane pass for 18 of the last 20 years - don't love the idea of not having one next season......
Chris
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Faster than a speeding bullet, more powerful than.....oh, you just asked about speed....
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Hi all, I have another WTB thread for a 4-hole - and I still need a couple of them (thread says one, I need two now. Maybe I'll bump it with that):
http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=34382
But I've decided I want to do a front lift on my old Alp, so now I need a 3-hole as well.
Thanks in advance,
Chris
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These discussions are always the same for whatever sport. I won't bother to read all of the previous posts since I pretty much know what they say. Has anyone mentioned my favorite? The idea that helmets are dangerous because you're more likely to break your neck wearing a helmet because it's not protected by the crushing action of the skull? LOL - I always get a kick out of that argument.
On another note, a great side-benefit of my helmet is how it allows me to use my head as a battering ram when I get in a tight spot in the trees. Just lower the head and bust right through scraggly little branches!
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Only one beer for me.....
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Sunday (Sugarbowl's closing day). On my Kessler (Hangl, OS2).
My buddy (soft boots) and I are riding up with a skier. Skier takes a long look at my board -- leans over the bar and gives it a FULL once over. Skier turns, looks up at me, and asks "are those ski boots?" "No."
I get that all the time. Never really thought it was a strange question. Most folks have never seen - or at least never noticed - snowboard hard boots. Aside from the shortened heel, my old boots look identical to a turn-of-the-century Raichle ski boot.
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Well, some people are naturally pigeon toed, and in that case those angles might make sense. I'm naturally very duck-footed, to I run a pretty big difference in angles - 45 front, 20 rear. As Jonny said, no shame in looking like a skier on a board. My skier friends say that about me - it's a compliment.
Let me ask a question - in the second picture, I see a board with bindings and a pair of boots. Are those boots just sitting there, or are those your feet in there while taking the picture? I suspect the latter, and if so you're probably not pigeon-toed. I'm guessing you're just standing there naturally not thinking about your feet and concentrating on getting a good picture of the board, right? If so, the way you have your bindings setup your legs are probably fighting each other and there goes all your power.
I'd like to say that since you have a 7 deg cant in the back and none in the front that you should just order a zero up front and a 6 deg out back. That may still be where you end up. But with your angles as they are and the fact you're not really happy with the current setup it's hard to say for sure.
As for elastomers, I'd go for the softs. The TD-3 is going to be WAY stiffer than those old Burtons and if your boots are super old the relatively soft 225s will probably be a bit stiffer than what you have now, so go with the softs just to get used to them. You can always buy firmer elastomers later if you change your mind. Same goes for the cant discs for that matter.
So I think Jonny's right. You seem a bit lost on your setup, so find the thread (I can't find it off hand, but I'm sure someone can link to it) and start from scratch with that. You can always go back to what you have now.
You've made solid equipment choices so you have two choices: either figure out your stance with what you have before you order, or go ahead and order new equipment with an educated guess knowing that you may have to order some other accessories later. I think a 6deg rear cant and soft elastomers would be a good place to start.
Think about how you feel, but new equipment just might free you up mentally to really explore a new stance.
Either way, be prepared to do a lot of experimenting. I find it helpful to try both middle-of-the-road options, and wacky angles too just to see how it feels at the extreme. Take a screwdriver to the hill with you, so if you really hate one setup and can't ride it, you can just change it rather than having your day ruined. For example, try a very duck-footed stance. Try really slack angles (forgetting about boot drag temporarily - this is just an exercise). You already have a pretty extreme pigeon-toed setup so you know how that feels. Try moving your stance far to the rear or to the front. Try really narrow stances and really wide stances. Then move back to a more moderate stance and dial it in how you want it. I only do an exercise like this every few years, but I've found it a good way to explore different options and nail down what really works for me.
edit: oh, it's hard to tell with the snow, but that might be the adjustable cant disk. Yeah, I think it is. Anyway, 7 deg is close and to directly answer your tech question, yeah - it has everything to do with the 0/3/6 question. The TD3 discs are more flexible than that plate, but the 6 degree is what you want to replicate what you have there in the back. And a 0 for the front.
Chris
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Have you tried ski shops? I'd bet anything that those parts are the same ones Head used on their ski boots of whatever vintage your boots are. A good ski shop will have a bin of old boot parts like that. You ought to be able to rummage around and find something that'll work. Or find a pair of Head ski boots to use as parts boots at a ski swap.
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Silicone spray is probably a good idea. It wouldn't react with the plastics and should be pretty durable.
Don't buy that binding spray unless you can get a smokin' deal on it though. I've seen that in ski shops for $$$. Betcha anything it's just plain silicone spray. I just looked it up for $8 for 50ml (~1.5oz)! You can get it at any hardware or auto parts store for around 5 bucks for like 10 or 12 ounces? Whatever a "standard" size spray can is.....
edit: this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80070-Silicone-Spray-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM5S2/
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Hi all,
Need a 4-hole cant plate for Burton race plates.
Could also use a pair of 4-hole discs I guess one for cant, one for not. Those I can order from BOL, but if you have some you're looking to unload with a cant plate I'll take them off your hands!
Finally buying a new board (Prior ATV) to replace my ancient Burton Alp. Really should buy new bindings. But if I'm going to lay down the money I really want to move to step-ins and with laying out $800 on a board and looking at $500 boots (hopefully I can get some on clearance!), dropping another $500 on TD3 step-ins is looking a bit daunting. So hoping to stretch the Race Plates out aqwhile longer and start saving for new bindings!
Thanks in advance,
Chris
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Or drip ski wax in there so it's nice and fast.....;)
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I absolutely here you with convenience. I haven't bought new boots and bindings in a LOOOONNNNGGG time. But my boots are coming apart and when I first started looking around and saw that the availability is kinda lousy I had half a mind to look at a soft boot setup. But I just can't see going back to fumbling around on the ground strapping my feet in with those straps. It's amazing that "mainstream" binding technology hasn't really advanced in 30+ years from the days when I started with a pair of Sorels on a Burton Performer.
Snow jamming is a tough nut to crack. It's still a problem with ski bindings, and just image the amount of R&D that's gone into those versus snowboard plates. 10x, 100x? So many users, so many manufacturers.
I've tried most of the suggestions on here at one time or another. The best I think is the DaKine spike pad. That really works. I lost one off of one of my boards in the middle of this season and the increase in jamming was big.
With some Bomber bindings I think it'll be an improvement in this department for me no matter which I go for. They have way more holes in them for snow to get out than my old Burton plates, which are pretty much solid.....
Thanks again for all the replies, guys.
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That all sounds pretty good actually. Nothing I haven't experienced with my plates. Might have to give step-ins a try this time around!
Cheers,
Chris
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Thanks John,
Have you had any experience with non step-in plates? Just wondering if you can compare. Mine can get jammed up exactly as you say and no binding is going to be immune to it. Trying to figure out if it's worse with the step-ins though. I can see where being able to stomp into them might give you more leverage, but I can also see the mechanism being more finicky.....
C
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Hi all,
First, I did do a search but didn't come up with anything. This must have been covered but maybe I'm using the wrong terms.
I think I know the answer to this question but just want to confirm.
I'm in the market for a new setup (been running an old Burton Alp with Burton plates) and trying to figure out bindings. I've always thought that step-in bindings would kinda be the wear snowboarding emerged to be a "grown-up" sport - in total contrast to folks sitting down and strapping in soft boots just like I did on my Burton Performer nearly 30 years ago!
I do a lot of powder and tree riding and so naturally I often have to strap in with my bindings and boots caked with snow. How much is jamming a problem in, say, Catek or Bomber bindings? That is, not being able to get the binding fully engaged due to snow between the boot and plate? I would guess it would be an issue, but would just like to confirm.
Thanks,
Chris
For those who left Deeluxx/Raichle boots
in Carving Central
Posted
You know, I can really see that - I was up in Silverthorne to buy some new Deeluxes (225s) last week. I have short legs and Popeye calves (Fin actually commented on it thinking I might need extra room) and have had issues with boots in the past because of that. But they actually buckle very easily at the top without having to let out any slack at all. For my big calves the factory buckle setting are perfect. If my calves were more "normal" they just might be too big around the cuff.