Futahaguro
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Posts posted by Futahaguro
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In reply to Fin's comment: "The beer was THIS big!"
The other guy (Is that Jack)?: "Nooooooo"
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I've been okay shipping stuff USPS in the past but not any more. I am a FedEX fan. UPS has bugged me in the past and their central holding facility is really far away from me. USPS stuck their own nail in their own coffin when, in the last year, they have left 3 packages by my mailbox near the road and destroyed a package mailed to me from Germany. I honestly think the morale over there is rock bottom since they are cutting and slashing pay and jobs.
For me it is easy to log in to FedEX, print everything out, and just drop it off at a FedEX/Kinkos 10 minutes from me.
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My first reaction is negative only because every piece of information on the website is a YouTube video. I am behind a firewall that blocks YouTube so I cannot get any information in regards to the bindings. Why do people design a website for a new product that only has information in a video format??
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Definitely a smooth looking carve! Next time ham for the cam like Fin;)
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Stuffed it at Louise last week, demolished my L collarbone. I had decided to take the year off and this is what I get for not listening to myself.[ATTACH]30011[/ATTACH]
That does not look good! Yikes.
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HUUUGE tracks of land!
LOL. Nice reference! But I just want to SING!
As far as the caption goes I don't have one but I will vote for the 23 year old demo:) Not that my vote counts, I just like that one.
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That is a nice looking still! I have not tried pulling a still from my DriftHD to see what it looks like. I guess I have not had a good enough reason:)
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My Android phone always has a lock on it but I don't have a find-my-phone style app, but was just recommended "Lookout". I guess I need to start browsing because this is something that I would like to be able to do. Glad you found it!
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Advantage Minnesota:) I obviously have not seen my share of avalanches but that one that slid from the dirt up is crazy! It didn't even look that steep. I suppose when you have a huge snow season stuff like this will happen.
Stay safe!
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hoffmac11 - I'm guilty. Same for long lift lines. ;)
I have to admit I never thought about why it's 'normal' to have the back foot out. I push a skateboard that way so I never thought about it. Could that be the reason?
I would say for ease of loading and unloading as well as how the board hangs on the lift. I'm also thinking about how you can control your board better with the locked in foot closer to the nose, as this guy found out. It seems that the location of pressure on the board gives you greater control at that point , so if it is in back the front will want to wander around.
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Here is a 160 Incline for sale, http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?36953-Donek-Incline-160 .
Dig around in the For Sale area, you can find some good stuff.
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Just an FYI but that is not a snowboard, and there are entire threads in this forum about how many people get it mixed up:) That is a monoski. Nice retro equipment though!
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That's the standard SL, stock model from 2010-2011.
Looking at it I think I need to fit the second one too as you could unscrew all the standard screws and then rotate binding plus this all together.
How long are you leaving it locked up?? I would imagine if I saw someone doing that I may have to wonder what the heck they were doing and inquire.
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I am waiting to watch a movie so I am using my phone to post and cannot embed the link.
I edited out the boring stuff and the loud wind noise but I left some dialogue in. Not much but fun to watch.
Embedded;
<IFRAME height=225 src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/37441922?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" frameBorder=0 width=400 allowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen webkitAllowFullScreen></IFRAME>Carving up Loveland, February 19th, 2012 from Futahaguro on Vimeo.
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I saw this board today at loveland and Eric was rockin' some really nice turns with this setup.
Nice to meet you and let us know next time you come out.
Ink
:) Such a nice group of guys. After riding it more I do really like it.
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Agreed on the deterrent. A determined thief is going to get it no matter what, just make sure it's easier to steal someone else's rather than yours and the lazy thieves will leave yours. I use something like this:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]29743[/ATTACH]
QUOTE]
Mine is similar to this one but shorter. I have softies so I can put it through the bindings and I usually ride with a backpack to stick this into. If I don't ride with a pack I don't go inside much:)
I'm with everyone else. I spent a lot of hard earned money on my board and it would be really annoying to have it stolen. Which reminds me, I need to put it under my insurance:)
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Nice to ride with you guys! I want to make a Colorado trip a yearly thing so hopefully I will be out there again. I have been pretty busy but I will get the videos up this weekend.
Breck was fun. I know a lot of you guys pan it but on a Tuesday it was very empty and had some huge open runs that were fun to carve, and boot out on the heel side:)
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Nice posts:) I certainly didn't.
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So I waxed, scraped, and buffed my board last night and then took some pictures.
Final thoughts and lessons learned before I go out and ride it;
1. Measure your insert depth and screws before you put things together. It is pretty amazing that the manufacturers of boards can get the inserts to all match down to 1/32nd of an inch. However, things do move and vary so some can be out by 1/32nd. Add to this a variance of 1/32nd on the screw and you can run into problems. I just wasn't used to doing this.
2. Like many of the other forum members said, count the number of turns with no bindings and then with the bindings to tell how how close you are to the bottom of the insert.
3. It is easy to grind the base of the screws with a Dremel and a grinding wheel attachment. Just mark the screws so you know which ones are different.
The first picture below is of the rear inserts after tapping them down and then waxing. You really cannot tell much from the pictures but it is almost completely flat so I am pretty satisfied.
The second picture is after tapping down the centering pin that was sticking out. This was much softer and didn't take much. There is a very slight indent now.
The third picture is of the front inserts after tapping them down. Pretty satisfied here also.
You cannot really tell what the bumps are like from the pictures but overall it is an almost smooth base. I will now ride it to see if anything decides to push itself out again and if it does it will be going back to Prior.
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Wow, how did that happen? Never happened to me with TD2 screws. TD3 screws are longer, you probably have used those. Good luck mate, that happened to one of my boards as well and I just pushed the dimple back, forgot about it and rode. So far ok.
According to Bomber the TD3 are the 20mm instead of the 16mm. I measured mine @ 22/32nds which is 17.3mm or so. Like BlueB said, the screws can easily vary by 1/32nd so I must have received a batch that was slightly off.
Good to hear about your dimple experience. I posted my repair work below.
Thanks
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I really think there's only one way to do this: For EACH insert, turn a screw into the bare board until it bottoms out, counting the turns from when it catches to when it hits bottom (gently). For instance, on my Coiler that's 5.5 turns on all inserts but one (5 even). When mounting the board, set up your bindings and count turns from when the screw catches until you're at your number. Now turn the screw back out and use a bench grinder to grind the screw so that you get about one fewer turns than the max. Do each insert individually or you're dependent on the board being fully consistent throughout.
I like this idea. In a way it is similar to my measuring of the depth of all of the inserts but yours takes into consideration all of the factors like the radius of the bottom of the screw, etc.. However, you get 5.5 turns?? That seems like a deep insert! I wish I had a deep insert but I suppose that also means you need a thick board:) Either way, I think I am good on the screw length now.
Thanks.
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163. I have more pictures of it under the review section for all mountain boards.
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Yes, if I see that there might be a problem, I measure. Another good way is to screw in, the screw only, as far as it would gently, then measure the gap from topsheet to the bolt head.
I did gring the screws in a couple of cases. On some bindings, like Snowpro or Blax/Proflex/F2RSCarve, you can simply add an extra washer.
I had a very thin Volant freeride (RIP), where end inserts were shallower then the inner (already shallow). I couldn't even get the prescribed 3 turns...
I have a question on this. The Bomber TD-2 screws have the flared head, and now that I think about it most binding screws do. Does that mean you use a washer between the disc and the board? Or does a 1/32nd washer actually bend and you can use it between the top of the bolt and the TD-2 disc? The latter idea doesn't seem like it would work well but I have never tried it so I have no idea.
This is great info so thanks again for all who have replied with their comments.
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Also, take a fistfull of screws, of shelf, of the same nominal length and mesure them all. You'll easilly find the discrepancies of 1/32"...
I also did this:) After the fact but I did indeed find out that a couple were 23/32nds, so I set them aside. My screws are now ground to 21/32nds.
Do you ever grind yours if the insert depth is not enough for the standard bolts?
SBX forum?
in The Lodge
Posted
Yes, the Classifieds section here.