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~tb

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Posts posted by ~tb

  1. ~tb, there is a TON of edge life left in these. They really do not have a lot of use on either board. I've been a tech for quite some time now and have tuned boards for numerous pro riders over the last 15 years. When properly tuned/maintained, edge material removal is quite minimal during sharpening.

    Let me what price(s) you have in mind. These boards are not being used and are still great rides for someone.

    Thanks!

    Shoot me an e-mail through the forum. . . If we can align on price, could it be dropped off in Irondequoit by thursday night?

  2. Whatever became of these boards? Did someone grab it as a lot which is why there was never any further posts? I was looking forward to seeing what was actually in that pile and then see what the free market e-bay approach would yield.

  3. Alright,

    Found three pairs in the box of various conditions.

    Pair 1: These have been retired as they picked up more "slop" than I deemed acceptable for my riding. Likely still safe and usable, just not up to my standards. Would not "give these away" as they still serve as a good loaner or back up pair.

    Pair 2: These were retired from active service while still in usable condition after a year or so of use. I lucked out and found a pair of the steel Bomber heel recievers from that elusive run that Fin made which were compatible with Cateks.

    Pair 3 (SOLD): These are as close as they come to new. They have less than a day on them of actuall riding. As stated above, I would need to be able to cover the cost of another pair of the Bomber Steel heel receivers ($49) to want to let these go.

    On a related note, I just spoke to my machinest who modifies my Bomber Steel heel recievers to fit my cateks. He is willing to do the mod for $50 (you send him the Bomber receivers and $50+Shipping) and you receive a superior set of heel receivers to what I shared above. Fins new receivers are so good, that they are likely the last pair you will EVER need.

    post-236-141842395731_thumb.jpg

  4. Board is still around and available. . . It's Been ridden a little more since pictures taken (mostly by my 40lb daughter).

    I initially decided to let the board go because I felt that I had gottne too fat for the flex once I broke 180lbs. It was nice from 150-175lbs. I dont think it would break if ridden hard at 180-200lbs, but just doesnt give you the pop that these boards were designed for while pumping.

  5. That may be last resort.

    Until the snow flies I'll keep trying

    To find some originals.

    Thanks for the input.

    I think I might have some close to new heel recievers, but based on supply and demand, they wouldnt go cheap. I would want to come close to covering the cost of the steel recievers from Bomber ($49).

    If you might be interested, I will go digging.

  6. Welcome to Bomber!!

    What is the waist width?

    Built for approx. what weight?

    Sidecut radius ?

    I got to demo one of these in solden. One hell of a board, but make sure you eat your wheaties before riding.

    The plate is very stiff, an the board is well designed to work with his plate. The plate I demoed made the original boiler plate seem soft! Felt like it would be a good fit in the race course.

  7. Alright, slightly odd item.

    One pair of track 225 shells only in really good condition. I was going to harvest the buckles off these and put them on an older pair of Indy's but decided it wasn't worth it.

    Make a reasonable offer, would prefer not ship but if you are paying. . .

    Pick up a set of thermo liners and you will have one nice setup.

    post-236-141842392309_thumb.jpg

    post-236-141842392314_thumb.jpg

    post-236-141842392316_thumb.jpg

  8. Hi Bomberites, the Mt. Hood crew would like to invite you to join us at Timberline to ring out the 2013 season from May 18 - May 21 (Sunday - Tuesday the weekend before Memorial Day). Timberline raises their rates after Memorial Day and fills the hill with ski race camps, so this is the best time of year to head up. If you're still riding lift-served at your home hill at that time, come gloat; if your season is over, come add a few more days to your tally.

    It's shoulder season and condo rentals in Government Camp (about 15 minutes away) are pretty cheap: <a href="http://www.vrbo.com/vacation-rentals/usa/oregon/mt-hood-the-gorge/government-camp">http://www.vrbo.com/vacation-rentals/usa/oregon/mt-hood-the-gorge/government-camp</a>

    Here's how good it can be on the Palmer glacier in the spring; what do you say?

    timberlinespring_zpsb598246c.jpg

    All,

    Sean and I did this last year for some late season riding and testing and it was one of the best trips I have EVER been on. I Highly reccommend this late season last minute fix before the warm months set in.

    I would be going again, but am heading to Solden at the end of april and have spent my "time away from family" chip and wont get another one for atleast a month.

  9. Cool list, but I've found over the years it's hard to completely compare the NASTAR lists. It is a better way than some, but a lot of top racers don't do NASTAR, and it also doesn't differentiate between races run on snowboard gates and skier gates. A good example is my handicap (Brett Nemke on your list). Those races are all in our local race league on skier gates. I'm a lot faster on snowboard gates, yet I know there are a lot of people a lot faster than me in the USASA circuit.

    Either way, it is a cool comparison.

    #1 and #3 on that list are mostly times (or completely times) set on skier gates in a skier league.

  10. So here is the fix I have in the works if it helps anyone.

    in CAD I designed these little babies that a fellow hardbooter has machined a handful of for me. It goes on the inside of the boot where the rivet pulled out of. it is the same size of the finishing washer on the inside of the boot.

    post-236-141842387363_thumb.jpg

    Then (assuming you didnt loose it) You take the broken rivet, Drill a hole through it where the rivet shank was and countersink for an M6. Install this piece as a cosmetic washer into the boot and Tnut.

    post-236-141842387371_thumb.jpg

    I have been riding this setup hard for the year with no signs of motion. only think I should have done different is to install it with a permanent thread locker. but as I was still working on the part, I wanted to make sure I could uninstall easily.

    Do others need this part? If you need this part, are you capable of performing the modification on your own?

  11. Does anyone else have an issue with blowing out the boot rivet on their AF600/700 Track 600/700 Indy or suzuka? I seem to blow these out on every pair of boots I own. (part J in the picture below).

    Track_700_parts_400.jpg

    Bomber sells the replacement part, but no one around me has the proper rivet Die to perform the fix.

    Am I alone with this problem? My greatest concern is if this part blows out while on a vacation, I am totally sunk.

    I recently came up with a solution that I will post later. Are others in need of a solution like this?

  12. This point is reminiscent of clipless bicycle pedals and 'rocking torque'. The original Time pedal had a lower stack height between axle centerline and foot POC, and was thus purported to allow for a 'rounder' pedal stroke. (As compared to the Look pedal, for instance.) Also, the shorter stack reduced the need for 'stabilizing' tension within the musculature while pedaling, a benefit in terms of reducing parasitic load on the 'motor', so to speak.

    Extending the analogy a bit further, if you consider the effects of where one puts the pedal axle with regard to the foot in cycling, one could achieve similar effects with the location of the front binding relative to the front plate axle. In cycling, the idea is to locate the spindle to drive the crank with the greatest effect. Too far forward and the heel drops, overloading the Soleus/Gastrocnemius; too far back and the foot wants to 'flip' over the top of the pedal, thus involving the hamstring.

    Either one interferes with power output/efficiency.

    So, if the plated rider tends to 'tip' forward while on one foot, it could be assumed that with both feet in, the rear foot is being recruited to account for some of the instability of the front foot. It could be assumed that, as the board becomes more reactive with speed/load etc, the compensating demands on the rear foot will increase somewhat geometrically.

    In other words, a 'tipping' front binding location would not be considered 'neutral' and should be moved accordingly.

    Eric,

    I like your analogy of the bike pedal, however, I am not sure if I agree with your conclusion.

    I personally would not recommend any adjustments to a plate sytsem based on how it feels when only one foot is clipped in as this is NOT the position your body is in while riding. This would be like saying, if your foot doesn't feel right on your bike pedal while stopped with one foot unclipped during a water break that you should make adjustments to your setup.

    When skating around with only one foot clipped in, your weight distribution is well off, and you are imparting torques and forces on the system that are simply not there while riding. In this state, unless you either move the axel several inches beyond the front binding and or ride a VERY stiff plate this rocking or tilting will still be present.

    I do agree with OSB.com's original point that this tipping is a downside (more prevelant on some plates than others) that is not discussed much. I would however add the context that most of the plates that I have ridden that demonstrate this "downside" have also been the most rideable plates for a freecarver.

    out of curiosity, what plates are you riding these days?

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