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WEBSIGHT360

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Posts posted by WEBSIGHT360

  1. what do you mean by this?

    does this just mean that rather than as the top sheet, the metal layers are below the top sheet and better protected because they are more towards the center of the board or...?

    thanks

    Yes, The metal layer is now protected by being under the topsheet, rather than being the topsheet itself, AND, they are making the metal sheet slightly narrower than the board itself, so that the metal does not go right to the edge of the sidewall. So when your sidewall takes a big hit, it does not put a dent or stress fracture on the metal sheet.
  2. So you think it's OK for everybody to attack me? I can't turn back the clock but even the "Moderator" is saying I am stupid. I have already ordered new bumpers from Micheale and after I put T-nuts in I think that should work, I give up on talking to you guys. I can't understand why no one else except Kburrill who started this thread, thinks these boards should hold up better and not break so easliy. You guys must all enoy spending top dollar for things that break.

    Everett, all the advice given here to you from respected long time forum members indicates that your TD1's are not compatible with new metal boards. Everyone here has indicated that TD1's and new boards do not mix well. This has also been mentioned in many other posts, in other threads, here on the forum in the past. It's the first thing that came to my mind when you made your original post with pictures of your board. I would suggest selling your TD1's, and add a hundred bucks to that, and buy a set of used TD2's. That way, you would still have the great beefy bindings you like so much, without the danger of wrecking another board, and perhaps yourself. You will probably love the TD2's even more than you like your TD1's to boot...

  3. Had some spare time due weather, so shoot picture

    [ATTACH]29690[/ATTACH]

    Weight with home made Hero fix (duct tape setup :) ) 155g

    Length 130cm when extended, and 59cm when folded. I should have left ome more section to get more length.

    But when i have time or need i will go and search for one which will fit to smaller space when folded.

    Pokkis, is this rigid enough? Weight looks good. I will definitely have to go to the Bass Pro outlet to check out fishing rods. I like the extra long handle.

  4. So Website - the way I read this is to move your front boot out of the neutral position, so that the center mark on the boot is behind and back towards the heel 1/4-1/2 inch behind center and move the rear boot towards the toe the same increment so it is forward of the center mark.

    I'm running a Virus Avy AFT ALP which is about 23 wide and my angles are about 65 front/60 rear on old Oxygen 01 bindings - The maximum boot bias I can get with these bindings is about 1/4 of an inch.

    to barryJ - Yes, the front foot is to the rear of the neutral position visually. The heel of my front boot appears to extend slightly over the edge of the board when viewed from above. The rear boot is brought right up to the toe edge. Interestingly enough, the UPZ RC10 center line is even further back from the middle mark on the TD2's on the rear foot than it is on the front. The front foot now feels perfectly balanced despite the illusion that it is not when viewing it from above. The difference in the ride is dramatic for me.

  5. Yes, I agree this thread should be stickied. I have gleaned a lot of info from this site over the years, but this thread has finally made my boards feel right. It's amazing that just a tiny adjustment can take your riding to a whole new level. Traversing is truly effortless, and now I can charge down choppy bumped up runs like I have never been able to before. Now, when I ride my boards, they just feel much more balanced, and the power and stability on my toeside carves have improved tremendously. This is on 21cm wide Coilers. With this change in my setup, I don't seem to have to throw my weight into making edge changes happen anymore, and my riding is much smoother and more fluid. I'm a very happy camper...:biggthump

  6. Thanks Phil. That was the answer I was looking for. I have been looking at boom poles for audio recording, but these are very pricey. At the price point of the Velbon, I can afford to buy a new one every year if it gets really worn out from abuse. I have carbon fibre shaft golf putter that I cut the end off of and added a 1/4-20 stud on the end which is light enough, but not long enough. I agree with you about all the action being out of frame without a long enough pole.

    @ pokkis - thanks, I will look at fishing rods too. I did not think to look down that avenue.

  7. So my home resort is only 300 ft of vertical...

    How many turns can you get on the monster and how wide does the trail have to be?

    BTW- I'm serious! :D

    Well, my local bump (mountain), up until last season, had a whopping 110 feet of vertical. This year, with the west hill expansion (30 years in the making) we have 220 feet of vertical, which will hopefully open in the next ten days with the colder temps. So to answer your question, I get about 1/3 of the turns in that you would get at your local hill... :D But seriously, the Monster has the softest flex of all my Coilers. It can be turned quite tightly. It does need to be put up on an edge before it starts to really turn. It is a very easy board to ride actually. Don't be turned off by the length. It is also a really fun board in small to moderate amounts of powder (like up to a foot and a half). I will be replacing this one with a narrower version in the future now that my stance angles are 55/50. When I bought it, I used to have my back foot at around 35 degrees, so I needed the extra width.

  8. 2 Wide Metal Coilers for sale. SOLD

    SOLD Coiler 173 VSR Tight (approx 11.5 metre sidecut), 23cm wide, built for 230lb rider Flex 7.1 + 6 $350.00 plus shipping. Built in fall 2009

    THIS BOARD HAS BEEN TRADED for another CoilerCoiler 188 Monster (approx 13/16 metre sidecut), 24cm wide, built for 220lb rider Flex 5.9 + 6 $350.00 plus shipping Built in fall of 2008.

    Both boards have never been ground.

    Both boards have numerous dings and gouges to the topsheet and sidewalls suffered in the lift line(our local hill now has 220ft vertical, so we

    are in the lift line a lot). Neither board has ever been in a crash, or hard fall. I have finally learned to ride steeper angles, and I now have

    an all-mountain VSR with a 21cm waist, and find this width much more to my liking. I think my next Coiler will have a 20 cm waist, so these boards

    are going to someone else to enjoy. Tons of life left in these boards.

    I do not have Paypal, so I am open to suggestions regarding payment. A couple of years ago, I sold a pair of thermo liners to someone here on

    Bomber in Salt Lake City. He sent me a money order, and that worked well.

    post-6803-141842356498_thumb.jpg

  9. Quite the Coiler quiver there. What model is the one on the right?

    I'm still waiting for more coverage here to take out my new 171 VSR AM extra tight with regular ASYM core.

    That woody topsheet sure looks good, hope you enjoy the ride.

    Mick

    The one on the right is a 188 Monster.

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