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Kent

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Posts posted by Kent

  1. FWIW - It doesn't look like they addressed the issue with the rear heel block. Still isn't going to fit certain bindings.....

    Also, we need a status on the cant mec. Does it have a 100& lock out?

    I have (2) pair of UPS RSV with cracked heels (on the removeable part..the WHOLE heel)....and I don't even ride Bombers or Cateks. Although...they did ride nice (minus the cant mec)

    K

  2. Originally posted by nils

    wrong cos i saw one broken R159 in a shop ( the red spaceship i posted above ) and all there was was wood, not foam!!

    As I mentionned: Rossi used wood in the race model ( ok this is the alpine everyone talks about here ) until the monocap construction...

    Nils

    Do you have a picture? As mentioned, the literature on the board will reference microcell. It certainly wouldn't surprise me given the hype at the time that Rossi listed one material and used another.

    Better yet...check the Rossi website archive and you'll find NO mention of wood in any of the boards talked about.

    http://web.archive.org/web/*/www.rossignolsnowboards.com

    I bubbled the base of the same board and it was foam......I'll dig in my pix archives tonight and should have a pix to post.

  3. Folks....

    All of the boards in question above are Microcell boards. Minus, of course, the boards that Bordy mentioned...which is basically a (white top sheeted) Rossi 180.

    Source: my buddy is the Rossi rep since day 1. If you break the board and find its wood, he'd like to know b/c every alpine board since the 4x4 (minus the yellow Slayer) until the "World Cup" (which had wood and microcell) was advertisted as Microcell.

    K

  4. Originally posted by Thomas_S

    Looking for a used pair of Cateks or Trench Diggers. Quick question. What are the major quality differences between the two manufacturers?

    Thomas, Thomas, Thomas....

    You must stay the course here! Fin and Jeff make great products, but have NO business being on someone your size. If you love Fin (like we all do), just buy some of his X-Bones. Just too stiff.

    The binding choice is easy...Burton Race or SnowPro Race. That's it, don't consider anything else w/o prior approval from your elders. ;)

    Back to the board. Dude...you're making this purchase waaaaay too difficult on yourself. It now seems that you're more concerned about a race deck than a all-mountain stick. Which, BTW, is fine. Personally, I'd buy a "nice" SL deck and call it a day.....

    Heck, here's your board....

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=21250&item=7105582699&rd=1

  5. Originally posted by D-Sub

    Kent

    you kinda throw that "POS" term around a bit much. Just because a board isnt brand new, didnt cost full price, etc, doesnt mean its a piece of poo. The way you used that term in your first response was a bit abrasive dontcha think?

    what about a burton speed then? those seem like theyd be a fairly good all around board, and they routinely show up on ebay...too stiff?

    You're making assumptions. I never said cost or being brand new had anything to do with it.

    Burton Speed? Good for newbie racer/carver, bad for all around board.

  6. Originally posted by Thomas_S

    Not really. I already eat well. I am also a long distance runner, which is an endurance sport. You lose whatever is too much in your training. Running sixty(60) miles a week at a good pace will do that.

    I admire young distance runners. Keep yourself healthy and I'll see you at an Ironman some year. I'm 90% certain I'll run the Badwater Ultra next year.....

    Alright, I'll be blunt again.

    If you can't get the Axis or the 4x4 on the used market, there are several "boardercross" boards that might do the trick. Start an ebay search and try to track down a older Volkl Cross. But...this really opens another can of worms b/c the width starts getting pretty wide....and you'll lose that lovin carvin feelin. This is the part where you might be better served on (2) different boards. As Derf mentions, older alpine decks are nearly given away and stiff freestyle decks have turned into a comodity.

    My guess of budget

    Carve----

    ebay Burton FP board - $100

    ebay Snowpro bindings - $75

    Fin's Rachel 413 boots - $150

    Freeride----

    ebay Rossi Seone or Levitation - $75

    ebay Burton Freestyle bindings - $75

    www.the-house.com any POS boot - $75

    total Budget - $550

  7. Originally posted by Derf

    There's one thing you guys (Kent, Neil...)seem to be overlooking when suggesting "Prior 4x4, Donek Axis and/or Coiler AM". If you read the original question, you will see he is on a budget, that means not able to afford a 550$US or 680$CAN board! And he also said he is starting.

    Nope, didn't overlook that. Budget is a relative term.....no parameters given. Check the used market.

    Sounds to me that your advise is that any POS will do the trick. I'm offering a targetted solution.

    A CHEAP snowboard is RARELY the least expensive option. For the price of your 2 POS boards, you could have upgraded from the start.....

    I only recommended the Prior. Takes tooooo long to get a Donek or Coiler. I'm not saying the Prior is "better"....but it seems that Chris is the guy who is ramping up production to meet demand. It's a balance b/w quality and ability to ride sooner. Kudos to his efforts!

    Kent

    P.s. - Neil....I do admire your "hardboot" dedication, but let's be honest. Hardboots are for cord and gates!

  8. Geck -

    I'm not picking on you buddy (has this place gotten so defensive lately?)

    I'm just stating that I'm quite aware of many National Champs/World Cupers that simply do not do what you mentioned above....

    I'm certainly not condoning good board maintenance....but when it comes to winning a race, a good night's sleep & focus will easily trump a 60 minute waxing session. Then again, many guys scrap their board prior to a race for mental stimulation and focus, not necesarrily in an attempt to gain a quantifiable edge.

  9. Yea Chuck, I hear what you're saying.....

    At the same time (and this is where my skier past comes out), snowboard races aren't won in the same manner that ski races are. SBers win by railing each gate and stayin on their feet.

    Compare the Top Ten spread at any FIS GS and snowboard GS race. It's almost embarasssing.....

    Don't get me wrong....I'm all about raising the competition and have all sorts of harsh feelings about parallel events, but perhaps we'll save that one for a beer sometime.....

    I nominate Chuck to lead the tune clinic....

    k

  10. Originally posted by Gecko

    Are you racing at a serious level? If so then an expert tune is important...

    I'm not so sure about this. Logic would say that a fast rider takes the best care of his/her equipment. But, you would be VERY surprised to learn who really takes care of their board and who doesn't at the highest level in the sport.....

  11. Well...I didn't say the 178 would exactly work. It going to be a lil on the long side. But, it's not like we're WAY off base.....just going to take a lil extra muscle, but eventually be the board for you after the skills catch up.

    As for bindings...I'd recommend getting a pair of SnowPro Race Ltds. Forget the Burtons.....

    I'll take some pix and send to you or post here...

    Kent

    Edit - Silly me....the other great binding out there to buy are the Phoikkas.

    http://www.phiokka.com/bindings.html

  12. Surpha -

    I'll help ya any way I can...

    I've coached alpine racing for the past 10+ years, and seen folks on all sorts of equipment.

    The goal isn't what is "best", rather....what will make you BETTER. At your size, you still have some growing to do....plus, being new the sport you'll need to suffer through the training curve.

    With that in mind, alpine boards are sized in accordance to the turn shape that you intend to make during a "carved" turn. However, the reality for new racers (and old) is that you won't be "carving" 100% of your turns. Therefore, you need a board which is handle the best of both worlds. During a race, many things happen...and the ability to correct mistakes is just as important as having a hero run 1 out of 25 times down the hill.

    For "adult" sized racers...most are using a SL board in the area of 158-164cm. For PGS..around 178-184 and GS is around 180-188. Really depends on the course...so guys bring multiple boards. For years I've been preached shorter than standard, stiffer boards with a larger sidecuts and people thought I was crazy....

    At 140, the 178 might be a lil too much board until you're able to throw around your weight. I'd say a 172 would be the best bet....but I'd definately steer clear of boards less than 168. Why? B/c that were originally built for large SL racers than small GS racers....

    Also, I would certainly STAY AWAY from Bomber or Catek binding until you've mastered the carve. (Sorry Fin). Many newbies use them as a crutch. In this process, you want to be able to balance on your board and be flexible....after this process, a stiffer binding will allow you to be more aggressive.

    kent

  13. Skateboarding!

    I mean, kiteboarding!

    Nope..forget that.....longboarding!

    Urgh...darn it, I really meant skateboarding like I first said.

    Then again, kiteboarding is really cool.

    But, surfing will give me more Cali votes!

    Since I already won California....I'll stick to longboarding.

    First, I'm going to take a lesson. Then, I'll go back and film the lesson (after I learned) and pretend it's my first time on the board. Then, people will really like me. I don't care if they respect me....just whether they like me. That should give me enough votes!

    But, WTF am I going to do once I get the job and actually have to work? Sheesh...I've missed 80% of my Senate votes!

    Life is good.

  14. My bass collection rivals my snowboard quiver.....somewhere in the high teens.

    Used to aspire to be a "rock star", but now content doing professional studio work and gigs. Working on another CD, but this one is slow miving due to IM training.

    K

  15. Not really responding to any one particular post, but think a few terms are starting to be used incorrectly.

    Canting a boot and canting a binding solve two totally different problems.

    Without going into detail (as you can search the forum for previous posts), canting a boot cuff does little to help with alignment unless you have a custom insole.

    I would suggest starting with an insole, move to cuff alignment (which can be done with your insoles) and a flat stance. From there you can then tweak the set-up.

    To start off with monkey business and theories is only going to confuse the situation.

    K

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