omskates
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Posts posted by omskates
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Foam core board is Ok in compression loading. With your application you are going to put it in shear and point loading. Also, the strength comes from the skins and their separation by the thickness of the core. With your t-nut application from the bottom, you'll counter sink for the heads, thus remove the skin. The same would apply for the board mounting screws from the top. Dangerous...
Or, it could be that I don't understand the concept properly...
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Yeah, this is exactly what I was worried about and the reason I posted the thread before proceeding. Thank you, I may be fabricating from cutting board material.
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As many are mentioning, a conventional oven can be a very effective tool for this. However there are so many risks assotiated that one must take the extra steps to ensure no damage is done to the liners. Do your homework and plan things out for a successful result. If you continue to have doubts, go ahead and have a boot fitter complete the job for you. :)
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Boris, I think he intends to drill through the donor board (the "plate") and screw it to the deck that has the old Morrow (I assume) hole pattern. The new riser has the 4x4 already in it. I think it should hold fine with a good washer under the screws. Granted, a wood core would be better.
Ted, yes you are correct I am searching out that "good washer" in particular, a counter sink type washer.
Boris, I am concerned about exactly what you mentioned and have considered the cutting board material option. I've no problem with using T-nuts to fabricate as I've done that before. As Boarder_Ted commented, I feel like it should hold up with the correct hardware.
Bryan. thank you for the info on the V-Plate. Very good friends of ours, have a Barfoot Woody (circa early 1980s) that his wife used to ride. It would look beautiful being seen in action during retro days at their local resort. If I can make things happen for them I'll try to get some pics to post.
Beckman, yeah I would definetly only drill counter sink as shallow as possible. I'll make sure the hardware doesn't bottom out and has clearance to keep the DIY plates tight.
I'm assuming these discussed DIY plates are the weakest link, so if I proceed I'll keep a very close eye on any cracking or delamination.
I used to ride Morrow Multipro 170+cm back in the early 90's and those could lay down some nice carves. I remember always trying to find ways to mod my boots and bindings for better response. Should have gone hard boots in retrospect.
Thanks guys for your input :)
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Getting ready to make risers out of a foam core board with modern 4x4 pattern. These will mount to a new old stock board with an 8x5 pattern (circa 90s). This is mainly to change compatability interface for modern soft bindings.
I'll be mounting the plates onto the 8x5 pattern inserts. You guys have any thoughts on hardware, countersinking, washers, etc? Concerns about failure and safety are welcome.
Thanks for any input
--Chandler
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Its the same IMO, but you will get multiple opinions on this topic. I've done intuition liners for softies using the careful kitchen oven method with good results. There is also the hot rice method but I don't prefer that one.
A discussion on this with good info: http://www.epicski.com/t/62530/diy-baking-intuition-thermoflex-liners
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Are these marked as sold?
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Funny I just noticed this thread, I was clicking in on the lift a couple times at Mt. Bachelor last Sunday. I had to pull down the chair's safety bar in order to do this and it was just myself and my buddy on the quad. Only because my bud asked me if I could do it ....... probably stoopid >.<
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I've been riding TD1's since the day they came out. I missed the window where you could get the spring loaded rear bail. Apparently there is a way to modify, and add a spring. I'm 50 now. I would love a rear step-in. can the TD1 be modified. What would I do? thanx for letting me poach this conversation. You'll end up making people wait for you if you don't get step-ins. Just sayin. look before you turn
Both the TD1 and TD2 bindings can be upgraded to step-ins with an upgrade kit but the kit is no longer available. You can place a post in the "Want to Buy" forum. Make sure the step in heel fits your boot.
I ride recreationally on a new/old stock Oxygen APX with TD1s, 45/48 and mondo 26 boots so I'm perfectly happy with these older bindings. Intek heels won't work on my boots so even if I found the kit I'd need new boots.
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Really you may want to go with the lowest binding angles possible that do NOT result in boot overhang. Many GS racers are on wider boards even using 45/45 (see nick's reply). Watch your trenches to see if any boot out is occuring. Go with the width of your shoulders on stance or the distance from the floor to the middle of your kneecap. I tend to refer to Scott's excellent articles on these matters and am always happy. http://www.alpinecarving.com/binding_setup.html
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Thanks to all you well wishers.. and your kind thoughts. yea, if it was not for Netflix it would be pretty boring around here -- thanks Carvedog for the suggestions..
Boris -- the doc told me to wait on the screws until we can get a boot on and see how it feels..
This is the first time in 64 years I have needed a cast or broken anything...my great neighbors told me the other night -- we always thought it was just a matter of time with all that crazy stuff you do..
I was going back to look at C5 Golfer's injury and just noticed the "first time in 64 years" part. You the man!!
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So sorry to hear of these new injuries; BigD TimW, Petrol, etc. Hope you heal well. My time on crutches was 3 weeks (severe ankle sprain as mentioned before) and just now able to walk without an obvious limp, walk on uneven ground, etc. Will be going back to work at the hospital this week.
BigD sprained an ankle in softies but I managed to do mine in while wearing hardboots. I was almost wondering if softies would have saved my ankle but now I'm not sure.
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It cost me $20 at my boot fitters to have my shells and liners heated, foam stuck all over problem areas, and everything put together and cooled down.
That's not too bad. Thought it was more for some reason. If I ever get 'spankin new boots I'll do that.
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Go to a boot fitter and have them do it for you.
Yes, please do if you are a racer or can spare the cash. Otherwise a regular recreational boarder can get good results with the excellent instructions provided by the previously posted link. I did and I'm happy with them:)
Good Luck
--Chandler
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surf-rodz has done it on something like a long board. awhile ago he had a link to a video where he put on some heavy hockey padding. cant find it.
it was insane. here's the post to the picture of his "board".
http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=144585&postcount=14
That is really cool but seems like bit much just for a little more body lean. Have to face the fact that real snowboard carving creates a natural bank in the snow along which it runs e.g. 'the trenches' allowing for the C carves, extreme carves etc. On flat asphalt carving a longboard too hard will result in sliding, I don't care how sticky the 'thane is or rubber tires or whatever. You will not slide off of good grip tape so there's no need for bindings to carve. All kinds of attempts to get a snowboard, surfing feel have been done e.g. Flowlabs, T-boards, FreeBoards, Mountain Boards and I'm sure they're all fun, whatever gets you down the hill. Best way to go IMO is a good solid longboard with reverse kingpin trucks, good wheels like BigZigs etc. and learn to coleman slide and/or foot brake. Most importantly have lots & lots of fun fun fun:biggthump
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I started riding riding a shallow drop board last spring and discovered how much the pockets act like bindings. I can make snowboard like turns at will these days. As much as I loved my dropthrough boards I'm on drop boards now the freedom and control are just too nice
I get that "confined" feeling with drop boards for some reason. At least on a drop through I can put a toe all the way over front truck if i want. Just psychological on my part.
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Agreed, you can carve as hard as you want on a good set up until the wheels break loose into a slide. No need for skyhooks or bindings on asphalt, the board will carve for you regardless. My Rayne HellCat with Randals & Blue Khiro bushings is nice for high speed carving. The 75a wheels stick like glue. I have it set up with front truck slightly inward wedged and rear truck is aggressively inward wedged for stability. This results in a board that does not turn well at low speeds but really comes alive at >20 mph and remains stable beyond 40 mph. I like my Roe Mermaid for low speed carving & pumping, has Bennett truck in front w/ massive outward wedging and a seismic stable in the rear for traction. Good luck to you.
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I don't know if this is helpful to Skrekk or anyone else but many of the more modern softies have intuition mouldable liners. This usually works fine on low to mid height hard boots. I had found a pair of barely used Thirty-Two Lashed softies for less than $20 shipped and quite sure the liners were never heated. Came with a decent foot-bed that went under the liner. I did the heat mould process with them in my old Oxygen 3-strap Kryptons and am very happy with the results. Some brands to look at, for this approach, are Thirty-Two, Ride, Vans, K2, etc. Look very very carefully at the photos & sizing if using fleabay and then cross reference the boots for more info before bidding.
Cheers
--Chandler
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Actually you are fortunate that it wasn't worse. Depending on the twisting forces on your ankle, ligaments could be disrupted and the force can propagate up the interosseus membrane resulting in a broken leg and an ankle that needs a couple of screws to hold everything together until everything heals. Nonetheless, I'm sure it's very painful.
You never or rarely see these injuries on recreational skiers. Their boots release before the forces get high enough to do damage. This thread is full of alpine boarders who, at least in part, have been injured for precisely the opposite reason; their boots do not release from the board.
Ah yes, I re-read your previous threads here as well and I see your point. I keep wondering if my outcome had been different in softies as this was a lateral force along the length of the board however my binding angle is 50 deg. so there's more to it than that. 10 years of boarding and 1st time its injured me, 'course the first 8 years while I was in my 20s (I'm 39 now) Hope you heal quickly.
Kimo, that looks absolutely brutal, heal quickly.
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omskates, I did something very similar about 3 weeks ago. Had 360 degree boot top bruises, a large knot on one shin and an unhappy ankle to show for it - feel very lucky to have escaped with so little damage. So sorry to hear about your injury - hope you heal well and can move into spring/summer fun in good shape!
Thanks guys, I'm optimistic for spring/summer; have a Roe Mermaid LDP and a Rayne HellCat that needs attention. Speedy recovery to all others many of which are injured far more severely than I; get well soon!
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Almost didn't post this but you guys have always been so good to me. Getting a feel for an Oxygen APX that I picked up in new condition. Really fun board, forgiving in chop & still rails quite nicely. Had been riding all day mostly teaching my daughter. Anyway, I was caught off guard standing relaxed and cruising slow on a cat track. I caught an edge spun around switch & went over the tail length-wise torqued my front (right) ankle. An embarrassing tumble. Contusions and soft tissue damage, can't bear weight. Will be off work a few weeks and the end of my season. The Ortho Doc was real surprised that I sustained ankle damage while in hard boots. Hope the rest of the season is safe and fun for the rest of you.
Cheers
--Chandler
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I think bow legged vs knock kneed plays a part in canting options. Angles may depend on carving style and whether you prefer more pressure on ankles or shins. http://www.alpinecarving.com/binding_setup.html
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Thanks for the vid clip. What a great contribution from the "Angry Skier" the sample placement in theme music is perfect.
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Riding the skwal . . . chair buddy asks whether I'm so poor that I couldn't afford the other ski.
:lol:That's so funny, thanks.
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Many Toe bails extend beyond the boot's toe. Should that be taken into account or just the shell on overhang? I wear M26 and have no issues at all with boot out on 20cm wide with 45/50. Blessed with small feet.
DIY Risers (for compatability interface)
in Carving Central
Posted
Ursle, the donor board just happens to be a foam core (I wish it was a wood core). I was planning to use one of my counter sink bits and countersink type washers.
Blue B has made some very valid concerns and I'm leaning towards cutting board material with T-nuts. I can use as many of the 8x5 pattern inserts as I want to mount the riser.
I'll let you guys know and post some pics.