Jonny
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Posts posted by Jonny
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I have a really expensive pair of Smiths but actually prefer the Outdoor Master Pro which is $40 from Amazon. Spare magnetic snap-on lenses are $25 and come in about 30 different colors and light-transmission levels. The 80% VLT green lenses are similar to the old Uvex green-gold and surprisingly good in flat light, but for really flat light they have a 91% yellow. They fit well with my POC helmet and I don't have to treat them like fine china because the replacement lenses are so inexpensive
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Mighty tempting. Are these the 299 shell? How many total days on them do you think? Shells are solid without cracks? I wouldn't need the liners.
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I don't think they'll fit me. Great boots though - good luck with. the sale.
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Very interested if the shells are 299 but it sounds like they might be the 309.
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23 hours ago, Mr.E said:
Tighten the kingpin first, then adjust the cant and lift screws.
Sure, always, but therein lies the rub. To adjust the bindings I'll back off the set screws half a turn, then loosen the kingpin. Then I place the binding and tighten the kingpin back as far as possible, then tighten the set screws, but they'll always turn juuuust a bit more than I backed them off, so over time, if I'm not careful, I wind up with that look on the post above. All better now...
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Yeah - typical issue with Cateks. Every time you adjust the bindings you give an extra half turn to the canting screws, for luck, and before you know it you're a foot in the air and your kingbolt is hanging on by half a thread. I was able to win a centimeter on the front and 5mm on the back just by backing out all the canting screws without altering my cant angles. I see what you mean about the rear axle but I think I'll try it like this tomorrow and get the sense of how it works at its most twitchy, before dialing it back. I may try putting the slider on the back at some point.
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The Burton Alps really are pretty good for this application. They're soft so you can bully them around, they won't hold a deep carve but they start to carve at pretty low rail angles which is key, because you don't want to be laying the board over if the trees are tight - not if you like your shoulders intact. They have some tail turn-up which is handy because you'll often have to get out of trouble riding switch for a bit. They actually like pretty moderate stance angles because they're pretty wide which gives them nice float too.. Also - they're at least fifteen years old so if you hit a rock you don't go into mourning, as you would with a custom Donek or something.
Slalom boards are nimble but much tougher to skid, have less float because they're narrower, and tend to be too stiff in the nose for the kind of moguls you'll often hit backcountry where there may only have been eight riders before you but they all had to turn in the same place.
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Here's how I have it set up now - you can see the old binding positions in red sharpie - so the axles are slightly closer together than when I last rode it and the stance as a whole is also slightly further forward. I'm a little wider than I'd prefer at 20 3/8" but it's easy enough to tighten that up if I need to.
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The fact that it's half a day before it becomes a real issue suggests that it may be an insecure fit rather than too tight a fit and that your foot is actually sliding forward in the boot. If it really is too tight then the best solution is to have a ski boot fitter punch out the shell. as an intermediate step though, try toe-socks. Injinji make a wool liner sock which is very thin and I now use them both for skiing and snowboarding. The fact that the sock isn't squeezing my toes together makes an appreciable difference in how warm my feet stay, and I bet it would help with a slightly too tight fit also.
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Thanks Lurch! The systems are basically identical so less setback is definitely worth trying. Not sure whether to just move my bindings up on the plate or move the axles back a little underneath while keeping the bindings at the same spot on the board but I'll stare at it all a while and come up with a plan. Thanks again!
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Ok, well, three days isn't much of a sample but I thought it might be worthwhile posting early impressions to see if anyone has some tweaks to suggest. I have the BBP V2 mounted on a well-tuned Donek Proteus 180. The plate (which I bought here lightly used) was fairly easy to set up with the axles slightly outside my stance. I normally ride around 20.25" at 60/57 on my 299mm AF600 so that's how I set it up. First of all, it really does smooth the ride out - not much chop this early in the season but what there was I could just ignore. On ice the feeling is also very smooth and positive, so that's the good part. The not so good - I really can only make one turn - loooong. On the bare board it was much easier to alter turn shape during the turn. With my boots that far off the surface I realized that I could ride much lower angles, and could also move my setup toward the heel side a bit, so I'm now at 54/51 with no significant risk of bootout on snow as hard as we have hereabouts (Western Massachusetts). It's now somewhat easier to initiate toeside just by driving my knees and of course slightly more awkward to commit heelside. I also feel significantly less pop coming out of the turn than I did on the bare board without plate..
The Proteus is a pretty smooth board and offers a really positive pop - like the Doneks of 15 years ago - without the plate. I wonder if there's a tweak I can try as far as technique -or stance/axle placement to retain the smoothness and get some of the tight-turning drive back?
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Gonna give Mt Snow a try tomorrow 12/18/19. Proteus 180 with a BBP I've never tried. Add to the thread if you're going to be out there too.
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I'll be very happy to take the Track 700 shells if they're not spoken for. Let me know cost with shipping to 01240. I'll send an email also. Thanks! Jonny
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The suggestions above are good ones. Here's a bad one but it works if you're desperate and it's cheap. Socks. Get the biggest socks you can find - heavy wool in a huge size is ideal. Put the sock OVER the boot liner, then insert the liners in the shells. Volume will be reduced fairly evenly throughout the foot and shin. They'll get wet and your feet will get colder quicker, but you'll be riding. Back in the day I broke two pairs of ski boots on a big race weekend, and used this trick to get a pair of loaners to work reasonably well.
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They're incredibly adjustable, very sturdy, the step-in system works flawlessly but isn't compatible with Fintecs because the soft aluminum receiver gets gouged up. You can't order new ones but if you find a used pair they'll probably be just fine until you need a part. Those of us who use them tend to have at least one full set of backup parts.
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Thanks you so much - I'm 11.5" so I guess that won't work! Great boots though and lord knows I'm due to update my AF600...
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Could you measure the inside of the shell toe to heel please? Thanks!
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What about with NO bindings? I remove my bindings (or plate) altogether before hotwaxing, I don't use anything close to excessive heat, just enough to barely flow the wax, I keep my iron moving, and still get a very slight dimple around the inserts. I assume it has to do with the relative heat capacity of the inserts, I know it's far to small to have much effect on the ride, but it bugs me anyway.
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I think we'll always be a niche at best, but insofar as the market can grow, I think it'll be skiers (and skilled skiers at that) who find the hardboot experience most appealing, rather than snowboarders who want to carve deeper than softboots allow.
My first hardboots were just my ski racing boots with the top buckles loose, and if sidewinders had been available then I might have stayed with them longer before switching to those pink and green Raichle monstrosities.
So for me, the setup that will grow the sport is a setup which can ride well with skiboots at moderate angles such that you can ski up to the demo booth and skate out with a board on your feet. It would want readily adjustable bindings like the purple Burtons, with some flex to them, and a board around 23cm waist with much less torsional rigidity than most of us would prefer, just so that the first turns weren't a chatterfest.
What I DON'T think will grow the sport is boots which are more "comfortable" where comfortable is just a euphemism for "sloppy". To make a real turn you sooner or later need some support from the boot. I'd rather make the board sloppy for forgiveness and keep the boots firm for control and power.
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12 hours ago, LambertoMI said:
Can someone confirm the boot she’ll size?
I was the previous owner I believe, although I never rode them. I had a half-finger fit (race-fit) in the shells. My feet measure about 28.25cm. My ski boots are race-fit and are 27 Nordica Speedmachines. My snowboard boots are Raichle AF600 (Suzukas) size 27 and are a little loose.
I would have ridden these very happily (probably with Intuition liners) but found that the old-style tongue was a pain for my unlimber physique to get into and I didn't want to go to the trouble of doing the adaptation since my current boots aren't that bad. If I were to buy current UPZ I'd buy this size. Hope that's useful.
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I think you’re describing a stock Donek Proteus 175 - constant radius, plenty of pop at your weight, titanal dampness and it LOVES to finish the turn which offers more speed control than a gs design. Sean can certainly customize it but stock specs should be very close. I ride the 180 but I’m 105kg.
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I ride Cateks because the lift/cant options are so easy. I ride a 19cm waist board at 20.25” with toe/heel lift and inward canting on both feet. I tried flat canting last year (even tried outward in the front which puts my front knee right In the middle of the board) and while my toeside turns had more power (and long traverses were easier) I lost all sense of my heelside body position.
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51 minutes ago, BlueB said:
I think Proteus is not supposed to be matal...
It’s metal according to Sean, and it’s certainly quieter and smoother than most glass boards. It just has way more pop than most metal boards. I adore mine and it’s succeeding my previous favorite, a very burly glass Coiler.
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The Coiler 180 didn't get ridden much after 2012 because work took me to Florida, and up until then I had alternated it with a couple of Oxygen SL boards, but even a ten year old board should have broken down more than that one had. Bruce took a look at it in 2012 at ECES and was kinda stunned at how strong the camber still was. Practically no edges left at all, and beginning to bevel at the tail, but still plenty of pop. Adapted well to lowrider plate, too.
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new deeluxe 425 pro shells 27/27.5, $300 +shp
in For Sale
Posted
Yeah - I better grab them. I won't have access to PayPal until this evening but consider them sold. I can send a check instead if that's better.