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Michael_A

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Posts posted by Michael_A

  1. Hi,

    I bought these from a trusted Bomber member last spring when I started carving and they have served me well...but I got bitten by the bug and bought new pair of TD2s.

    This set would be great for someone starting out or for a second/loaner board. They are in solid shape but have quite a bit of cosmetic wear, scrapes, nicks. The discs are fairly scraped/pitted from the cant adjustment screws but it just makes setting up a little longer.

    I would like to sell these for $100 including UPS ground shipping (continental US) and will include the three allen wrenches needed for adjustment + 8 slightly longer mounting screws (16mm?) that worked fine in my two boards and allowed me to get a solid 4 turns.

    Thanks,

    Michael

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  2. Geoff,

    I started carving this year & live about 45 minutes south of Sunapee. Is there a regular Thursday thing going on? What time of day? I am looking for some inspiration -- am progressing OK on my own but could probably learn a lot faster from seeing others....

    Michael

  3. Hello all,

    I started carving this winter (after a year on soft boots) and at first my toesides felt good and heelsides terrible. So...I started working on heelside and once I figured out angulation and keeping my weight forward the heelside initiation and turn feels totally comfortable & locked in.

    Now, my toeside feels week and awkward.

    Is this just part of the learning progression? (If I can get a video posted soon I will.) Or is angulation a different matter from one side to the other?

    I have big feet so am running at 50/45 which I like just fine....just curious as to what others who have been through this learning curve might add....

    Michael

  4. Peter_X,

    I have the 413 too---the booster strap does not go where the Raichle plastic band is; it goes in the space above it. The strap will sit above the 4th buckle and go over the liner. You have to fix it in place (see above in thread) with one or two fasteners. It really improves the boot.

    Michael

  5. I live near Crotched Mtn -- have had 14 days since December but last night the cover was pretty much gone. Plus with the fog and rain visibility was practically zero. Looks like no more riding until later next week at the earliest and even then the base will be really thin.

    I got my first alpine board this past summer (Volkl Cross 167) which has basically turned into a rock board after one month since the surface has been so light it's bee impossible to avoid damaging it. Oh well! May just have to get a new board for next winter!

    MIchael

  6. Hi,

    I have to take a day off Thu and am trying to decide if it's worth heading North with a buddy, or staying at my "home" mtn (Crotched) which is small but has a decent base and an OK carving run.

    I figure if a mountain has snow, it will be "hero" slush tomorrow and might be fun....

    Any recommendations?

    Michael

  7. Just spent the p.m. on Crotched -- 12-32" fairly hard slush; awesome for carving! Amazingly they have a fair amount of snow and for a newbie like me the soft snow makes it really fun. Now if only I can figure out why my heelside feels more comfortable than my toeside! (As I've been learning up to now it has been the other way around.)

    Michael

  8. Hi,

    I just started alpine last spring (with plates on my freeride board) and will unveil the new Volkl Cross this weekend. Any other alpine riders in the area? I go to CM exlusively because of my 5- and 7-year old sons who are learning to ski & tag along with me. Look for the tall (6'5") skinny guy!

    Michael

  9. Hi all,

    I started on plates at the end of last season after snowboarding fora year or two and had good success with "cross over" turns but am anxious to get the "cross under" cranking as well (was especially inspired by a few parts of the Jaques and Patrice EC videos on their site).

    I've found one article within the Bomber web site but can anyone point to additional video or written info? The technique did not seem intuitive to me & I would appreciate any tips....

    Michael

  10. Hi,

    I was riding the Burton Ruler last year (I am 165#) on a all-mtn board; and got into a "soft" hardboot setup in the spring (SB413) on a BX board. The SB413 is quite soft for a hard boot, but is still a lot stiffer than the Ruler.... I for one wouldn't call the Ruler "stiff".

    Michael

  11. Hi,

    These two boards are much more different than you might think. The stik is closer in size to a regular skateboard. It carves very well and doesn't need a steep slope at all. Because the wheels are relatively small it is relatively easy to overpower it and skid. (I'm sure some riders do this on purpose but I'm no expert.)

    The carveboard is much bigger and has really huge sticky wheels. You can rip much much faster on the carveboard in far greater confidence. But it's big enough so it's a little awkward to lug around.

    They both come with a great dvd that shows some really good riders on the street. The web site has portions of that video too and will give you a good idea of what they can do.

    I bouth a stik and now that I've had it for two years I wish I got the carveboard as it is so much more grippy.

    Michael

  12. Hello,

    I'm setting up my new BX board (I know, I have to wait 8 months until I can use it) and noticed the binding inserts are set about 5-6cm back from the center of the effective edge.

    I thought this might be a bit much, but when I strapped in, the foward lean of my boots and 55/48 binding angles seemed to place my weight squarely back over the center of the board, or even an inch or so in front.

    What kind of setbacks do you all use, and is the goal to get your weight over the center of the board when you're in a balanced stance?

    Thanks in advance,

    Michael

  13. Hi,

    I'm looking for a wide (23-24cm) all mountain similar to a Donek Incline, Madd BX, 164-168 length, 9-11scr. Anything in your quiver you want to pass on? I'm a new boarder on the East coast looking to step out of my freeride board. The plates just make it too soft. Wanting something transitional -- not ready for a narrow alpine board esp. with my mondo 30 feet.

    Thanks,

    Michael

  14. Has anyone rode both these boards and can over a comparison? I'm moving up from a plates on a freeride board and have heard great things about both. With my big feet (Mondo 30) small home Mtn (Crotched Mtn, NH) and 2 kids in tow I'm not ready for a dedicated alpine deck. Both these seem like a good choice for plates, though especially as I am liking lower (45-50) angles.

    168 Incline -- 135 edge length -- 10.3 side cut -- 24 waist

    169 Madd BX -- 138 edge length -- 9.2 side cut -- 24 waist

    Thanks,

    Michael

  15. RJ,

    Those are good questions. I only weigh 160 and am primarily interested in laying down carves. In my experience we don't get much powder here on the East Coast. I've got to be able to throw the board around fairly easily because our mountains are fairly crowded, the trails can be narrow, and I just don't think with my skills I should be riding a longer board.

    I put my plates on my 164 freeride and although it could carve pretty well it felt VERY soft and flexy with the increased leverage from the plates/bindings. The width of the freereide (26cm) doesn't bother me and I am enjoying riding around 45 deg. so that's why I think a BX type board around 23cm wide with a 10m sidecut or so might be best.

    Michael

  16. Hello everyone,

    Got hooked on carving on my freeride board with plates this winter -- but have big feet (mondo 30) and seem to like lower angles (45/40). What kinds of boards are out there with a 23cm or so waist width? All I can find so far are the Donek Incline, Prior ATV, Coiler AM. All three seem like great rides. Anyone care to offer a comparison or make other suggestions? I ride on smaller mtns here on the East Coast.

    Thanks,

    Michael

  17. This Generics 159 of unkown vintage would be a great for loaner, starter, or beater board. Decent base, edges. Blax bindings OK serviceable as well.

    I bought these as part of a package deal and after using once am riding my plates on my freeride board (until I get better) and am looking to buy something a little bigger and wider.

    Board originally bought from fellow Bomber forum member.

    Length 159, Edge 146, Width 19.7, Sidecut 9.3

    Email me at michaela AT puritanpress DOT com if photos don't show up -- I am doubtful that this upload is working...

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  18. Today, I finally went for it . . . put a pair of used Catek WCs (thanks Bobdea) on my 164 K2 freeride board, set angles to 45/40, and stepped in my new SB413 boots.

    After 1 1/2 awkward runs everything clicked and I was totally blown away. Completely different experience from my softboot setup, where even though I could carve OK I always felt on the edge of loosing control. The boots just lock you into a carve -- no finicky ankle movements -- vast increase in speed, control. Like a dog off its leash, as someone here said!

    It's true -- your own personal roller coaster ride. Heelside turns if anything even sweeter than toeside. Totally awesome! Traversing, then tossed my body over the board down the fall line and BANG! the board rips a carve under you and you are rocketing around the arc.

    At one point on heelside I felt like I was leaning over too much and about to fall down . . . angulated the board a little more and it lifted me right back into balance. WOW! Decided to carve as far as I could toeside and ripped a trench straight up hill!

    Will try and eke out a few more outings this year then save up for a Donek Axis next year . . . all mountain board is fine for me!

    Can't do this on the weekend though, people have no idea where you are going and at what speed. Had to wait till the slope was clear each time....

    Thank you everyone for your posts and all the great things to learn here.

    Michael

  19. Hi All,

    Just picked up used Catek World Cup bindings and am very impressed by the construction & flexibility with setup. However...this is my first season on Alpine equipment and I am wondering about the reliability of all the fastenings that hold everything together.

    I can tighten up everything good, but it is awfully easy to "loosen" everything up too. It seems like a good wipeout could easily work things loose.

    Do any of you use any loctite or similar product to keep everything in place? I know I'm not supposed to do this on the screws that hold the plate to the board, but what about all the others? (esp. the 4 controlling heel & toe lift, which also determine the binding angle)

    Do you check all your fastenings before every outing?

    Thanks; any tips appreciated.

    Michael

  20. Hi all,

    I have limited time on the slopes so want to ask your advice as to the best way to go.

    I've been carving on my softie setup for a year now at lower angles (36/15) and just got a complete Alpine setup (thanks to bob dea and others). I hear two different approaches to getting started:

    1) Put plates & hardboots on existing freeride board at lower angles; increase the angles as comfort level goes up; then switch over to SL deck

    2) To heck with caution, jump right onto the SL deck. (Note -- I have big feet and I'll have to set this up at 55/50 or so)

    I have skiied a lot when I was younger so am tempted to try the second option. Any feedback?

    Thanks,

    Michael

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