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mrjamie

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Posts posted by mrjamie

  1. Uh-huh, some enlightening responses, it's a coach love-fest... mmm! who's right? who's wrong? :smashfrea let's see what I can digest!

    Yeah, you're ready for an alpine board. It will open the door for you. There is some good stuff going on there, including some cross-under technique. I think you're to the point where you'll need an alpine board or at least a much longer freeride board to move forward.

    At the end of the day I was experimenting with cross-through, and the board would leave the snow in-between each turn. Because there is less pop in the board I have to be more aware of where energy is stored if I want to pull it up and through. Also, I found that keeping the tail on the ground but pulling the nose up and dropping it into each new carve, which is especially easy to do since the tail is so soft, was good practice for cross-through.

    Ironically, my first three years of snowboarding more than once per year were ridden out on a Prior 4WD w/ Head SP's & Catek OP's. Never had the fortune to ride with anyone from this board, but there were a few Japanese father-son racing couples who let me tag along their lines!

    The only thing that strikes me as not good in your vid is how your front leg is extended on the first heelside turn at about 15". The wash out that comes afterwards is well controlled and the cross-under are smooth. In short, you look great man !

    Now, all that has been said is right. Board should be a little longer, and maybe stiffer, at least in the tail. But, seeing these first 15 secs, I also think you have too much difference in angles btw front and rear. You may want to add 5 degs to that rear bindings.

    BTW, I ride SPX 45 on some of my soft stuff and I like them very much. Very responsive bindings.

    The Demo Rozzy came with The Jones Experience bindings, a package deal for $250 -- after taking them off and restoring my wear-worn SPX 45 the difference was immediate and so exciting. So much more response! I have you all to thank for that suggestion a year and a half ago :1luvu:

    I have a natural tendency to crouch over my back foot, which is observable off the board too, like when I'm walking down the street in the middle of a city and think 'Wait, how do I set up a heelside again?' and start squatting then and there. :cool:

    Less difference between the binding angles -- definitely want to try this, the 20 degrees of difference just felt a little too much for my legs.

    Increase your rear binding to around 26 degrees. You will eleminate the "squat and take a dumpy dump" and be able to keep your shoulders and hips more in line with the board. A bit more "Cowboy" action with pinching in the nkees and you will be slicing nicely :)

    Im a rozzi fan, and Ive been on that board. It really is not the best for carving. Its a big air, soft landing kinda west coast board. Try the SULTAN or '07 PREMIER. you will be lovin life :)

    After some experimenting in the lab (living room) I think the knee pinching will be solved my staying over my forward leg during each 'squat and dump' at the beginning of a turn.

    I agree that ~10 degrees is the most difference I want between bindings, and maybe I'll try decreasing the front binding as well.

    For my next board, I think I'll wait and see what neversummer does with their rocker/camber lineup for next year! Those board look like they will hold a mean edge and pop well too...but I wonder if they are damp enough?

    I wouldn't change your angles, and wouldn't worry about getting a bigger board or alpine setup if you like what you got. I also agree with bob, don't try to pinch your knees together. All it really does is focuse your weight between your feet rather than keep it distributed along the edge, also it just looks bad IMO.

    You've got a very smooth, fluid style which is awesome...

    It looked to me like you generally ride with your weight a bit back, this is mainly due to your back leg being compressed much more than your front in that whole video. I would focus on driving that front knee down towards the snow on toeside and really drive your front calf into the highback on heelside. This will help move that weight forward at the start of your turn.

    Thanks, this post clued me to start squatting randomly and has caused my friends and family to ostracize me whenever we go to public places. But I know that your words are true! Good advice. :biggthump

    The angles do feel a little far apart, degree wise, so while I don't have a plan for what they will be specifically, I will try riding with less of a difference -- ten, fifteen max -- between front and rear.

    I dissagree about the angle change, I agree not to worry about the alpine or bigger board, but your advice about not pinching in defeats your comment about bringing the knee forward and still pressuring the calf muscle into the high back. You can not do both at the same time without some rear leg follow-through and a higher rear foot angle will really focus the transition from edges.

    Mrjamie, All I can say is "try" the stance change for a few runs and see how differrent it feels and how you can use your back leg in unison now and really drive both legs and your hips with upper body and eleminate the back foot "rudder" finish to the turns. If you look at teh end of the vide you can see how your back knee is already fighting to turn more forward and your stance wants to go that way as well. FWIW Im really good at pinpointing this sort of thing in riders (be it park or just free riding or other).

    Indeed! :D Will try riding with back and front more in tune and report back.

    why not try 30 30...what do you weigh? your ht. size foot?

    so you like Pow and cruisen carvin in softboots...so do I !!!

    The snow here in colorado lets 3 straps and an all mt. stick

    with a soft flex do both well. :biggthump

    I'm 156lbs (70.7kg), 68.5in (174cm) and US size 12. I enjoy smooth carves on the piste and long walks on snowy spines.

    Glad to see another softboot carver...a species even more rare than the powerful yet shy hardbooter. I'm going up to Whistler with the partner for two days during break, so we'll see how the snow there works out.

    I can carver decent with my A-frame with 32 F 20 R. These angles feel pretty good doing most anything but riding switch. I don't like to have too much difference in my binding angles, but I need at least 8-10 degrees difference even with my hardboots to be comfortable.

    Amen. I'll try out your differentials and see how the ride. :)

  2. I know that style...I love that style!

    Your avatar pic will go to a slarve (slowdown)by bending the knees and

    focusing the energy on the nose while the tail releases...to much and we

    go into a 360, so it is a feel and practice thing. I have to be more aggro on heelside with a lot of kneebend and body out front to stay on the edge and

    and not wash out...just my 2 cents.

    Thought your video looked great and you looked relaxed and being relaxed

    lets us do our best stuff...:biggthump:1luvu:

    Yea, my heelsides feel the same way, but I'm on softies -- angulation and aggressive edging, always good things to practice :o

    my thought too.

    It's a 163 wide Rossignol Jones board, and the tail is pretty soft too.

    Looks like no boot out on backside turns coming into last frontside where

    you look heavy on the turn and stay late into the last backside where you

    release your tail by letting the weight move back to far... we all do that

    occasionally?:D

    Please let us know if when you are turning frontside or backside that your

    binding/boot is digging in and causing your edge to slip out ?..though to me

    you look way to relaxed to have not figured that out before ?:eplus2:

    Ah-hash, so ifsh I moves back too farsh on the tail during a heelshide, it shlides out huh? Well alright wisheguy! Time to loesh some weight! :AR15firin

    Definitely does not feel like binding/heel out, that's for sure. I've been using 35/15 on the softboots and that works for carving and powder, but it feels a little weird -- with my feet both angled forward but at dramatically different degrees, each one has a different axis to tilt on... any recommendations from other soft boot carvers (with big feet :biggthump) for binding angles?

    instead of using your hands for balance use them to drive the edge. left hand is ok but use the right hand dynamically. push the right hand out over the nose on your heelside turns and drop it to your side or hip on the toesides. you can get even more edge by driving both hands out over the nose on your heelsides. think handlebars.

    steepen your angles until there is 0 overhang:biggthump

    Handlebars, I see. :eplus2: This was my first time seeing myself carve in about a year, and all that flopping about was new to me too.

    Thanks much for the posts :lurk:

    edit: I did a quick review of the board, if anyone's interested it is @ http://rogueumbrella.blogspot.com/2009/03/snowboard-review-rossignol-jones-163.html

  3. It's been a while since anyone who knows how to carve has seen me carve, so I humbly submit a video on softies. The angles are up (35/15) on a Rossignol Jones board with Salomon SPX 45 bindings and burton driver-x boots.

    I'm having a bit of trouble sloughing off speed and it feels like my heelside doesn't bite as well as my toeside. Watching the video it looks like I'm not being dynamic enough with my lower body and I'm leaning over slightly too much for toeside carves; on heelside carves I should try reaching for my front binding.

    Any advice or suggestions you would offer is most welcome...only, love me softly :boxing_sm

    <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43-lUwIkoOo&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43-lUwIkoOo&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

  4. Anyone interested in heading up to Crystal this thursday?

    I need a ride from Thurston County (Olympia Area) to the Mountain and back, but in exchange I'll make a vegan lunch and desert to carry along with us.

    Yahoo Weather shows that some snow may accumulate for us, so South Backcountry would be sweet and fluffy on a Thursday with virtually no one else on the mountain!

    If you're interested, PM me or I'm just a phone call away (360)-628-2773

    ~Jamie

    p.s. My hardboots were lost by the post service system between Japan and the US, so I'll be softbooting, but still I love to trench and carve, of course.

  5. Oooh, I spotted two hardbooters on the mountain today (Sunday 1/4), beautiful packed powder, even the moguls were soft :)

    My hard boots got lost in the mail on the way back from japan, so I'm riding softies until I work up the courage to purchase another $480 pair of boots but if you'll let me ride along I'd love to hang out with some hard booters, finally, after years of solo action in Japan!

    First day of the season for me was today; lo-and-behold, I can lay down some trenches riding switch! Mmmmhhhhh. Go softies!

  6. compilation of the small amount of footage from this season past:

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  7. Ok here is my 3 cents.

    5 I really dont see how one could carve efficiently with negative angles (duck) it will make your hillside look like puping and ice and steeps are out of question. Unless we talking blue trails only.

    yea, I was out for 8 hours straight on softboots yesterday and I started to feel that way about heelsides... but toesides feel awesome, getting my waist back over the back of the board and tweaking the style. Even with 29.5cm boots and 15 -9 angles, I still got my knee dragging on every toeside ;)

    hardboots look like awesome tools for carving, but honestly I haven't touched mine in a while... there's so much more freedom to play anywhere on the mountain in softboots, not just carve, but I guess carving is why most people are here eh!

  8. You'll be in good shape if you don't let the downhill edge get under the crust. So simple! :rolleyes:

    That's actually a good example day for what I've been saying - I'd ride hardboots and pull the big G's in the AM on what will likely be hero cord. Switch to softies after a couple hours after it gets broken up a little and cruise the soft snow - and still be able to carve (a little less hard) when I end up on a groomer from then out.

    er, sorry, maybe I wasn't clear. There is maybe 50cm or so of windpacked powder... any time you put an edge in, regardless of where it's facing, the nose tends to submarine 50cm down to the bottom... it's really light snow (-14c) but really windpacked. So it's not so much that there is a crush on top, or if you want to use that analogy, the crust is quite soft.

  9. it's been snowing and the wind has been howling at 25m/s for the past two days... today all the mid and upper-mountain lifts were closed. Tomorrow is going to be a lot of wind-packed powder that collapses when an edge cuts in.

    Any advice on what to do with this snow from those of you who do see some reason to put away the hardboots on occasion? :p

  10. I've ridden hard boots for 12 yrs now and this year got on softboots for the first time.

    At first, I start at 15/ -3....super hard for me.....I moved them to 25/15 which felt more comfy. My issue was I was trying to ride the set up like an alpine board which did nothing but hurt my legs....once I realized I was standing sideways and began to concentrate on the toe and heel lifting as opposed to driving my knee it all came together.

    Carving on a softboard feels just as sweet.....IMO it is a totally different technique that drives the carve. And it wasn't until I realized that I needed to change my riding style that I could smoothly link the carves and enjoy the softboard carve.

    just my 2 cents

    I had the same problem with getting used to my softboots.. it was a process of learning how to carve again on different setups where pressure applied in the same ways resulted in different movements, yadayada....

    I'm on a tanker (164 swallow-tail.. custom :p), soon to be replaced by a 187 tanker, salomon SPX90 bindings and burton Driver-X boots.

    At the beginning of the season I had my angles set all the way up (5x-5x) to avoid overghang, but after I realized that no matter how hard I tried soft boots would not be hard boots, and that carving hard-boot style with softboots hurt, I switched them down to 30/30 for a while. Recentluy I got palmer 20mm raisers and lowered the angles to 24/0. Though I can't lay down heel-sides because of binding-out, I can lay down toesides with my toes dragging, and it's fun enough finding that perfect angle where I'm over the board on heelside but not so far over that I boot out.

    it's great in powder :p

  11. The D1 will run circles around the Tanker. Quick edge to edge, rock solid on the groom and probably the best Powder board availble currently. Yes that will get reactions but it out rides and out handles Wintersticks and all of the rest of the swallowtails.

    That may be, but riding the tanker is a sublime experience, especially in deep powder. It's straight up fun. I'm sure the Dupraz is just as fun, and maybe more surfy, and may very well run circles around the tanker...but the tanker still bombs down powder slopes and carves groomers. :p Anyone know a place where I can demo a dupraz in Hokkaido?

  12. jtslalom, thanks.

    There are tons of incredible carvers out here in Niseko, especially on the Annupuri International resort side. Every time I watch them ride I realize how lame my carves are :p -- and they have much lower angles!

    I went ahead and bought a pair of risers -- even if it is just technique, when I cut the board I shortened the effective edge by a lot, and binding/boot out on heelsides carves is driving me nuts :p

    After reading some replies here, I think I'm going to go kick the angles up in the forties and maybe move my front binding back just a little. I look forward to your videos.

    Be well, ride well :)

  13. back your angles way down. There is no need to ride 51/30 on a soft boot set up. I am riding 30 degrees on the front and maybe 25 on the rear and can carve well and i am not booting out. If you need to ride that steep to avoid over hang then you need a wider board. The mellower angles will give you more stabilty and better turning power and edgehold on toeside turns. It will also work better on bumps and steep terrain. Have fun with your soft boots! I am doing a lot more soft booting this year and am wondering if I will be riding hardboots much. I like the versatility and lighter weight. Save the steeper angles for hardboots and a narrow alpine board if you are going to do it.

    I put the front down to 30 after my legs started hurting :p

    I have size 29.5 boots, so even with a 26.8 nosewith I have to ride at least 30, and even then I can feel my toes in the snow on sharp toesides, and get a bit of binding out on heelside. Ah well. I was looking for wider boards, but the 167 rad-air is only .7 cm wider, and anything more than 27 will probably feel too wide even if I can get lower angles.

    Enjoy your softies :) I agree with you about the versatality and flex you get with them.

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