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That Guy...

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Posts posted by That Guy...

  1. SVs are great bikes, no doubt, but there are plenty of questions starting with that to which an SV would NOT be the answer. For example: "…riding single-track through the woods," or "…riding hundreds of miles of loose gravel on the Trans-Labrador Highway." Even "…comfortably touring the backroads of the Appalachians for a week."

     

    But for general purpose street riding and commuting, yeah, I've recommended SVs to quite a few people.

     

     

    For the offroad stuff, there is the DL line, which are more or less the same bike with some "adventure" bits on them.  If there is any doubt of the platform's off piste capability, I offer this as a reference.  :)

    635375179_T8wqd-XL.jpg

    http://supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?88535-fernley-vet-national-and-GP-pics

  2. with -15/+15, progression means heelside bulldozing the snow off steep slopes under the lift :smashfrea

    I like to make S turns inside bulldozer tracks "just to piss'em off" :angryfire

     

    Some of my favorite people to ride with are skiers, and they're always lightheartedly busting my chops about being just another damn jibber ruining the mountain.  I joke back, "Don't make me go get the Coiler.  I swear to god, I will get my 196cm Coiler out and while you're at work all week, I'll be going sideways down all your favorite powder fields from first to last chair."

  3.  

    - What's wrong with making equipment that helps beginners begin?  

     

    Nothing at all.  But like they say, you'll never progress if you spend all season on the bunny slope.  That's what ends up happening- they buy some beginner- coddling band aid and spend their entire progression on it.  At some point pretty early on- usually shortly after turns are first successfully linked- that beginner board becomes a hindrance.  Besides, it's not like snowboarding is really that hard to begin with, even on a fully cambered board. 

  4. It's absolutely tongue in cheek. And the SV is a stellar bike, and has handed a serious fright to more than one macho sport rider in my meetup group. :eplus2:

     

    I was about to say... I'd take an SV over any inline any day of the week.  I keep wondering why I don't have an SV in my fleet yet.  It's like, the Miata of motorcycles; any question that starts with "which bike would be good for..." is always answered with "SV."  

  5. You are not high.  I see ugly riding every day, be it on boards or motorcycles.  Cheap equipment allows halfwits to partake in something that would otherwise be unobtainable.  To make a parallel between bikes and boards- you'll almost never see a dipshit on a Kessler or a Ducati, but you see plenty on Romes and GSX-Rs.  

     

    Regarding the technology and technique that goes into "the others," you have to look at what the purpose of these boards and the technique used to ride them is.  Flailing around in a park and jibbing off crap doesn't require the same stuff we use on this side of the fence.  To wit, everything has a purpose, and ours is as alien and nonsensical to them as theirs is to us.  That having been said... Kessler and Ducati can get away with the same solid colors year after year because the people that buy them understand the value of the technology and racing pedigree contained within.  Rome and Suzuki change graphics and paint colors yearly or nearly so because they're catering to a less discerning demographic that's worried more about image than uncompromising performance. 

     

    I had a thought this year while riding the lift discussing this very topic with a skier friend- snowboarding is in its malaise phase right now.  Companies are looking for the next big thing and are grasping at straws, trying out any and just about every new development in hopes that it'll catch on and revolutionize the sport.  Thing is, it's all bullshit.  Case in point: magnetraction.  If there is any one design feature out there that could be the poster child for lack of understanding how boards work, it would be magnetraction.  Rather than design a board that- as you say- rewards skill, they build one that hinders it.  It is the automatic transmission of snowboard design, promoting disengaged laziness everywhere it goes.  Once the manufacturers start weeding out their useless designs, and once (if- big if) interest shifts from image and towards skill, you'll see an upswing.  Thing is, that's just not going to happen any time soon.

     

    As a side note- I had the chance to put a file on a magnetraction board this past season.  It was pretty much untunable.  You can bevel the base edge all day long, but good damn luck giving the sidewall edge a consistent shape.

  6. zoom! plates clearly improve straightlining stability.

    now maybe everyone will shut up about völkls having a speed record

     

    Having a speed record for a while as your main claim to fame is one thing.  Having a consistent presence on various podiums is another.  :)  

  7. I have both 5mm and 6mm versions of the binding and don't have the problem you describe with my HSP's, both with stock heels and with Bomber Fintecs.

     

    Corey- I'm assuming the 3D printed version is just a prototype and the production pieces they speak of are being made from metal. 

  8. Ignoring everything else, the fact that you have only six days in hard boots is enough for me to say to stay off the 185.  Now, delving deeper...

     

    I have never ridden an F2, but generally speaking, a 185 GS board is not something to be trifled with.  Bring your A game and don't get stupid, or prepare to be hurt.  Unless that Silberpfeil you're on now is an absolute clapped out turd, it will take you further than you're giving it credit for.  Like you, early on I thought that I was ready for a 185 after a short while on a 168.  I had my ass handed to me by said 185 and went limping (literally) back to the 168 to get more learning in.  When you'll be ready for the 185 is impossible to answer.  You'll never be "ready" for it.  It's unlike and probably more intense than anything you've ever experienced on the snow, and the best approach is that of extreme caution.  

     

    As for the speed?  Depends on the snow, the pitch of the slope, side cut, board construction, and where you fall in the weight range.  For what it's worth, there's about a 10- 15 MPH difference between my 168 and 185 Kesslers.  More to the point, on the same slope, I can link C turns within four cat tracks on the 168 (8-12M radius), but need seven for the 185 (12-21M radius).  Since the 185 you're looking at has a single radius of 18M, expect it to need more room than mine.  If you don't have the real estate to let a 185 run and maneuver, you're going to hurt yourself or someone else.  As I told another fellow on here via PM, don't skip leg day or ignore strengthening your core muscles if you plan on riding a 185, because when that nose comes around through the fall line and the g- forces start really building, you'll get sucked right down into the board. 

     

    If you can afford to buy it and not ride it for a while, go for it.  The step from 169 to 185 is unfathomable.  I'll second the wise suggestion of getting an intermediate board in the 173- 177cm range to ride before you get on the 185.  

    • Like 1
  9. Yeah, I realized that I was confused between compatibility of In-Tec versus the old TD 2 aluminum. So ignore me :)

     

    No worries!  

     

    That does bring up a question I've been wondering about for a while- how close is the bolt width on the Bomber sole blocks compared to the F2 base plates?

  10. I can't tell for sure, but it appears that the vertical part of the bail isn't completely resting on the plastic behind it.  Is there a gap there, or is it resting on the plastic?  If there's a gap, the bail might be bent.  Remove the bail from the plastic by folding it forward and pulling the sides out, then lay the bail on a flat surface to see if its bent.  

  11. The OP was asking about converting F2 Race Titaniums to Intec, and the heel receivers on F2 Intecs are steel.  The Fintecs work quite well with them.  :)

    • Like 1
  12. Yep, easy to do and you don't even have to remove the bindings from your board.  This is what you need to convert one pair of medium bindings to Intec.

     

    Part #                 Unit         Quantity       Description

    1530-05-0220    Each        2                  F2 Intec Toe Plate Assembly (M)

    1530-05-0209    Each        2                  F2 INTEC Heel Receiver 21639.06601

    1530-05-0222    Pair         1                   F2 Intec Heel Receiver Cover

    1530-05-0228    Pair         1                   F2 Intec Pressure Plate

     

     

    If you can afford them, the Fintec heels are way better than the F2 heels.

  13. The only vertigo I've ever experienced was while flying under instrument conditions, so this may not be much help, but try looking further ahead than you normally do.  On flat light days on the snow, I lose my depth perception, so it makes judging lean angle, rate of turn, speed and direction difficult.  I end up trying to find a fixed visual reference like a lift tower or trees or something to help my brain make sense of what my vestibular senses are telling it.

  14. And while SkiDad62 does that, I'm enjoying life, and all it costs me is a couple of seconds at the top of the run, and occasional ribbing, of course. I don't scrape. I just leave it on to protect the base. It's not really about speed for me, but a clean garage and base protection.

     

    Funny you mention that.  There's been days where I haven't bothered to scrape or brush, and I haven't noticed a perceptible difference in speed between a buffed and polished base and a lumpy, thick layer of wax.  I'm sure a timing system would, though.  All that extra wax is usually gone in a few runs anyway, so what protection is there is short lived.

     

    I do, however, notice a huge difference when the temperature/ moisture content of the snow is outside the range of what the wax is good for.  

  15. While I don't use the wax wizard, I have developed a technique of hot waxing over the years that generates very little scrapings.  A 4 oz. block of wax lasts me a few years between three or four boards.  No sense putting on a thick layer if 90% is just going to get scraped off and end up on the floor.  What little is scraped off, I just vacuum up.  

    • Like 1
  16. "Powder" is a relative term this year, unless you were lucky enough to find yourself in New England...  So let's call it "not groom" instead?  :)  For that, I mainly use a '97 Burton Supermodel 181.  But lately, I've been adventuring off groom more and more with the Kessler alpine decks.  Surprisingly, the 185 is quite capable and very easy to manage as long as its not bottomless pow.  It's not too happy on chopped up concrete, but as long as there's at least some mashed potatoes, it settles right in.

  17. Thanks for the morning laugh! :)

     

    A few weeks ago I rode my freeride board with my old Burton Step-In Race Plates mounted. Wonderfully convenient at the top of the mountain, but I discovered when I got to the bottom that getting out of them is a serious pain due to the tiny release lever that sits down lower than the heel of the boot. I admit it, I could stand to lose a few inches around the waist, and bending down that far and flipping that lever is no longer very easy.

     

    But then last weekend an old friend of mine rode with me on his Factory Prime with step-ins, a setup that he hadn't ridden in years, and he had just as much trouble getting out of the damn things. And he's thin, so that made me feel better.  :biggthump

     

    --mark

     

    In a fit of motivation spurred on by laziness (wrap your head around that!), I ran a cable up from my Fintec heel and out the top of the vent in my pants, ending with a pull start handle from a Honda line trimmer.  No more bending over at all.  The handle is at hand level, so I just pull it as I'm coming to a stop and pop out of the binding.  

     

    Because, you know, I couldn't be bothered by the incredible burden of bending over slightly to reach down to mid calf or so where the handle usually is.   :ph34r:

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