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jtdds

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Posts posted by jtdds

  1. So... dynamic carving on bx or free ride board assuming either soft or hard the binding angles for optimal mechanics are....

    Good assumptions on both counts.

    A. Riding a negative angle on the back foot is a good way to prevent a full, rebound driven, elastic sweep of the board through a heel side turn. Consider that in order to do so, the pressure wave under the board needs to move from the tip right through to (and out of) the tail. With a negative rear foot angle, the wave stalls under the rear heel, somewhere near the mid length of the board. Any energy remaining in the system needs to go somewhere, so if the rider hangs on to the edge too long, the snow under the edge will probably blow out as the load spikes, leading to 'chatter'.

    B. If the highbacks are not set 'correctly' the board will most likely twist while on edge, and/or, the rider will not be in a good position to 'work' the board, on account of lost ROM or excess muscle tension.

    (In the event you don't already realize this, a board 'twisted in the cut' is trying to make a turn of two different radii simultaneously.)

    All other adjustments being effective, you might try setting them up as follows:

    Standing evenly weighted on both feet, with your hips in line with (perpendicular to) your front foot, rock lightly back to feel contact under your heels. At the moment of firm but not excessive heel contact, you should feel the support from both front and rear highback at the same time.

    This is a baseline for sensible stance angles and widths.

    May not be valid in all sales territories.

    Season to taste.

    So... Dynamic carving on unidirectional bx or freeride board. Assuming soft or hard, address binding angles for optimal mechanics.

  2. Tracks speak to outcome more so than to process. As such, a clean track doesn't say all that much about how a rider is getting the job done, or whether that rider has realized their potential.

    A ragged track, on the other hand, has use.

    One could surmise that if he knows his preference as to flex/flex, he has a creative means of dealing with a less than optimal ratio.

    The video (not a critique):

    You probably notice that the toeside turns are longer in duration and hook harder, whereas the heel side turns break off sooner, and don't hook nearly as hard, if at all.

    More 'speed' is dumped on the toeside turn, as to attempt the same on the heel side will likely result in 'chatter' (making an assumption as to one possible definition of 'chatter').

    Also note some of the 'speed wobble' on a few of the heel side turns; a reasonably good indicator that the board is not always running true on account of torsional distortion.

    A torsionally stiff board removes one variable from the equation so the skilled rider can direct the focus elsewhere.

    So... dynamic carving on bx or free ride board assuming either soft or hard the binding angles for optimal mechanics are....

    Good assumptions on both counts.

    A. Riding a negative angle on the back foot is a good way to prevent a full, rebound driven, elastic sweep of the board through a heel side turn. Consider that in order to do so, the pressure wave under the board needs to move from the tip right through to (and out of) the tail. With a negative rear foot angle, the wave stalls under the rear heel, somewhere near the mid length of the board. Any energy remaining in the system needs to go somewhere, so if the rider hangs on to the edge too long, the snow under the edge will probably blow out as the load spikes, leading to 'chatter'.

    B. If the highbacks are not set 'correctly' the board will most likely twist while on edge, and/or, the rider will not be in a good position to 'work' the board, on account of lost ROM or excess muscle tension.

    (In the event you don't already realize this, a board 'twisted in the cut' is trying to make a turn of two different radii simultaneously.)

    Good for yarding a marlin over the transom, not so much for effective 'dynamic' carving.

    All other adjustments being effective, you might try setting them up as follows:

    Standing evenly weighted on both feet, with your hips in line with (perpendicular to) your front foot, rock lightly back to feel contact under your heels. At the moment of firm but not excessive heel contact, you should feel the support from both front and rear highback at the same time.

    This is a baseline for sensible stance angles and widths.

    May not be valid in all sales territories.

    Season to taste.

    So... Dynamic carving on unidirectional bx or freeride board. Assuming soft or hard, address binding angles for optimal mechanics.

  3. -------------

    Your Total:

    Agreed, but Professor Bart rocks a Coal that has stiff flex and minimal torsionol stiffness. Enjoyed the articles and have some more basic questions. Sorry...

    1. Yes, my heelsides hardbooting feel more controlled than toesides-- 60/57 degree angles. But when I switch to soft boot boards at 12/-12 duck angles with flow bindings, my toesides feel more powerful than my heelsides which tend to chatter when being very aggresive as Bart riding in the video. The two factors I consider are the difference in binding angle and perhaps the highback inclination?

    2. Second question. Several of my friends teach snowboarding. When I got back to riding soft 8 years ago, they conviced me to ride binding angles perpendicular to the edge of the board, and coached me to align my shoulders and not rotate them open. I spent an ton of time working on my fakey riding and found this very helpful ( this is why I also try to even the binding placement tip to tail) For high backs, they suggested I set them forward enough that when I lock my knees, the front edge of the board just comes off a flat surface. For me this translate into a max position forward on many bindings. Please comment on these parameters? JT

  4. Hey,

    So... looking for skiboards on popular auction service I've found a mint condition Rad-Air Tanker 187, which I just had to have.

    For around $100 it was a bargain.

    Looking forward to riding Tanker in soft boots...

    It was a sign. Those skiboards are not for me :D

    Cheers

    Bart

    Hi Bart, thanks for posting your video. Very impressive. Hope you will entertain some questions.

    1. What binding angles are you riding your Coal?

    2. Are your bindings symetrical tip to tail-- meaning do you ride and carve fakey? How are they set?

    3. Is that Coal a metal board? Your weight in lbs?

    4. Very impressed by lack of chatter on deep heelsides-- what is your secret?

    5. Can you ride same angles in hardboots on the Coal and discuss why you prefer not to.

    ** question 5 is key as I have just started experimenting using hardboots on my palmer and kessler cross boards. Thanks JT

  5. I have 166 rossignol throttle $60. Two burton factory primes 158, 167 $80 each. Coiler pure race 166 just tuned $250. F2 rs speedster 173 never used! 2006 board $275. Planning to post all this weekend. Spend on boots. Lot of cheap boards that are great rides on this site. Good luck. Jt

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