icecarver
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Posts posted by icecarver
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10 hours ago, drschwartz said:
Disregarding my earlier post??, I think you might just be happier sticking with a nice turns alpine board and relatively high stance angles, like 50-60 degrees.
After doing some more research I think you are probably right. That being said, I think I will post for recommendations and put the notion of a "home made" skwal to rest. Thanks all!
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1 minute ago, RobertAlexander said:
If you decide on a skwal, imo, you should try to get a turny one, kind of is the only way to keep your speed down, If you are going to carve down the hill. Compared to a more strait skwal that you will be skid steering down more, you can still skid steer a turny board, but it give you the option of a tighter carve.
Good call. I'll keep that in mind. I ride smaller mountains (hills more like) so a tighter radius would probably be best.
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1 minute ago, RobertAlexander said:
with water skiing in you, I worked with a guy with many hours of long and recent past of water skiing, and he could not break the habit of leaning back once the carve was started. He would wash out the carve every time, with water skiing you are leaning back on the rope, with alpine board or skwal you are weight forward into the turn. I would be interested in hearing of your progress. The guy I worked with never got a carve down, all day and the next. He also had the idea of skwal being close to what he knows, but with this opposite procedure, imo, you may want to think alpine board first, get it in you first, then perhaps skwal, , you can learn skwal first, it is imo, just a little bit trickier to learn, but once you get it, it is the same, just a bit different, no problem, again, imo
I'm interested to see how it goes as well. I certainly understand what you mean though in carving on skis and a regular alpine board I know where to keep my weight so I'm hoping that will translate over to the skwal. I can carve on an apline board so hopefully that will work for me. been a couple of years since I was on an alpine board since my kids all like to ski. But now they are independent enough that it's time for Dad to do what he wants :)
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6 minutes ago, RobertAlexander said:
Tried this a year or two ago, it is in my past posts, with a similar 20 mscr, got down the hill ok, but had to side slip to stay at a safe speed, bottom line is, you need of 10, 12 or 14 m scr at a minimum to be able to carve a turn to keep your speed in check, I Already know how to ride skwall, but if you are thinking of trying this, do not, and if you are thinking of trying this and learn how to ride a skwal at the same time, "forget it, It does not work" , trust me, do not waste your time, go buy a real set up.
Ok then... I am one to heed experience. Sounds like you've "been there, done that" and didn't like it. Guess I'll just have to keep my eyes on ebay/classifieds for an affordable setup. I've ridden alpine boards off and on over the years (first was a Burton PJ asym with rat trap bindings) and I'm a slalom water skier since I was a little tyke. I think Skwal sounds like the ticket for me. Too far into the northeast to be able to demo such a beast so I guess I'll just have to invest.
Thanks for the advice.
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1 minute ago, BlueB said:
20+ m sidecut...
Meh... not too hard to find a 100mm + wide ski with less than that. Surface makes some with 15.5m. A little smaller would probably work better. I'm thinking stiffness would be the limiting factor though I own a pair of Surface skis and they're pretty darn stiff. Carve real well.
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Just jones-ing the idea and looking for thoughts: Mount a fat-ski (110-120mm waist) with a skwal binding setup. What do folks surmise would be the challenges/drawbacks of such a setup? Also, if this were to be done, what specs would one want in the ski donor?
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how about $75 shipped on the bindings?
I just sent a shipping quote on the board/binding combo... if that falls through there are 2 people in line for the plates, you're third.
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Interested in the bindings.
Do you ship to Italy?
Sorry, I've never had good luck shipping internationally.
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CT, I have another interested party. If I don't hear from you by tonight I'll assume you're no longer considering.
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Sold!
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CT... The plate buyer has stepped aside.
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@CT-Carver Here's the camber pic. Lots of life left. I've got someone in line for the plates. If I don't hear from him by tomorrow evening you've got first dibs on the combo deal.
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Bump for price reduction...
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Shipping: ~ $20, I'll eat anything over that.
The difference is that ski boots are made for skiing and alpine snowboard boots are made for snowboarding. I do both and there is a difference between the two. The sole of an alpine boot is shorter, the flex and feel is different, and the list goes on.
I'm a US 8-8.5 and I should really be riding a MP26.5. They were a tad big, If I cranked down the buckles they'd snug up so I bet they'd be a good fit for you.
Email me through BOL and we'll work out the details.
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Burton Wind Boots, shell is 26.5-27, liners are marked 27. A few scuffs but not used hard. No rips, tears or broken parts. These boots are Intec/Fintec compatible from what I've read. $85 + shipping
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Burton Ultra Prime 6.2:
Marked Demo on nose, great condition, only used 5 days by me(second owner) mostly half days 3-4 runs. Ding in the tail, a little liftline love, solid board.
Waist: 197 mm
Sidecut Radius: 11.21 m
$100 + Shipping
Carbon Race Plates:
1 oblong 3D cant plate
3D disks only
missing the burton emblem on rear toe clip(see pics)
$100 + shipping
**OR $185 for board & plates
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email sent...
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Looking for a rear cant for my Ultra Prime. I've been riding my bindings at 20" with a little toe and heel lift via some home made spacers but still feels squirrely. I'd like to try a can't for the rear foot. I ride regular. My zip is 04457(Maine)
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Curses... if I'd been online and not shoveling the driveway last night I could've snagged this! Oh well, at least I've got 14" of snow to stare at and a sore back
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Sweet... it all makes sense now.
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Got my new to me race plates in the mail... The front binding mounting is pretty strait forward. Not really sure about the orientation of the rear plate. Does anyone have mounting instructions they can scan and email? Can't find any online. Or can someone sent a pic of how they mounted thiers? If you follow the directional arrows marked on the disc the holes don't seem to line up. Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm sure it's somthing simple.
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As lowrider suggested to someone else, take a look at yyzcanuck's signature - sums it up pretty well.
Awesome... many thanks.
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I can't believe you didn't do an entry on pedaling
Ok... this is the second time I've seen this term used on here today and after searching I can't figure out what this is. Can someone please help me out?
(link to relevant thread or somthing)
(link to relevant thread or somthing)
Board Reccomendations
in Carving Central
Posted
After another hiatus from hardbooting I'm hoping to get back to it soon. Last board I had was a Burton Ultra Prime 6.2 with carbon plates. Never did get the stance dialed in before parting with it.
Here's my riding situation and I'd like some suggestions:
The hills I ride are tiny. Think 400' or less vertical drop. I am in northern Maine so Mom 'n Pop mountains are mostly what we have(www.skimtjefferson.com). Runs are short and fairly narrow but well groomed. On skis, at speed, I can get 10-15 good carves linked together. This, I'm thinking, rules out big side cuts and long boards.
So given the riding conditions, if you had to pick a board for small mountain carving what would it be? I'm 6', 175lbs (maybe a bit more post xmas binge
) . Thanks in advance.