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baldylox

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Posts posted by baldylox

  1. I was in my living room "laying trenches" in the carpet last night. One thing I noticed is that my front knee is fairly close to the toe edge in neutral stance and centered when I angulate as if I were going to do a heelside. Should I adjust the cant so that my knee is more centered at neutral?

    If so, I'll probably need to move my binders a little closer together. The front binder is centered in the inserts. Should I move the back up 2 units or the front back a unit and the back up a unit?

  2. You've identified that what you 'know' and what you 'need' are not the same thing. Your 'difficulties' appear to be more procedural than mechanical.

    As Bryan points out, you have at least engaged the sidecut on both toe and heel, which suggests you have something to work off of.

    Your posture, however, is a bit too complex for a basic heelside sidecut turn.

    Part of the visual funk is a byproduct of the board arcing around a pivot point located near or under your front foot. At your stage of the game, its more about controlling the tendency for body parts to rotate than it is about actively rotating body parts.

    Find your toeside at around 1:04-5 on the video. Notice that you are more or less upright and stacked over both your feet and edge, more or less centered on the length of the board. Maybe even slightly to the rear foot.

    Find your heelside using the same/similar posture.

    Add postural complexity as the needs of the turn dictate, rather than as a means of making the turn itself.

    atomic.gif

  3. I'm having trouble fixing my heelside. I know I should be rotating my hips and looking into the turn but when I do, I twist right out of the carve. The tail breaks free. How can I fix this?

    This is me. (I didn't title it)

  4. I have a pair a Track 325s on which I installed the BTS system. Blue spring for toeside and red spring for heelside.. I've noticed that when you really flex the boot toeside and then unflex, the toe spring catches on the BTS housing. Is there a way to avoid this?

  5. 1. Mark Brown, M-F

    2. Jim Cheen, W-F

    3-4. Andrea, Dave & Lillian Morgan, M-F

    5. GeoffV, M-F

    6. Michael Mercurio, M-F

    7. Stephane Paquette, M-F

    8. Derek Bonser, M-F

    9. Tabatha, M-F

    10. Brad Burns, M-F

    11. Annie Beaudoin, M-F

    12. Claude Fagnan, M-F

    13. CarveFather, W-F hopefully

    14. Bob Russell Buggs, W-F

    15. Alex Juhasz, M-F

    16. Steph Juhasz, M-F

    17. Karson Mui, W-F

    18. John Philkill, M-S

    19. Hilux, M-F

    20. Fishrising W-F

    21. Shaggy

    22. Ian M, M-F!

    23. Max L, M-F

    23. Tim K, M-F

    24 Murphy Tues-Fri

    25. Brian Barrett, W-F (or more

    26. Khanh Vu M-F

    27. Rob A Tue-Fri

    28. Tom A Wed-Fri

    29. Redhawk Wed-Fri

    30. Jack Michaud Thu-Fri

    31. Glenn Mon- Sat.

    32. *Ace*, W-Thu.

    33. CMC, T-Thurs

    34. Peter V, W-F

    35. Gilbert V, W-F

    36. Team 32, W-F

    37. Chad K, M-F

    38. Ed Griffin (Griff) Thurs-Fri

    39. Hampton, M-F

    40. Baldylox, W only

  6. I picked up some second hand alpine gear from a few members and got out for my first time in hard boots this weekend.

    Currently my bindings are set to 55 Front and Rear which puts toe and heel right at the edge on my Axxess 172. Stance width is 20.5" and I am 5'10".

    While riding I felt pulling in the achilles in my rear foot on the outside. I'm thinking this means I should open up the rear foot a bit to 50, which would introduce a small amount of toe drag, or should I steepen the front binding to 60?

  7. I ride primarily in Vermont with a few trips out west. If there isn't fresh powder and the trees have been picked clean I am probably working on my carving. I can carve rail to rail in softies on my Ride No.4 in 164cm. I am confident carving cross-over on low angle slopes and primarily use a cross-under on cat tracks. When it starts to get steeper my carving breaks down pretty quick. I have not learned cross-through. I'll usually get one solid toeside then my heelside carve is a much larger radius and I get fast quick and need to throw snow to bleed off some speed. On medium slopes I'll frequently get heelside chatter.

    I don't think I'd want a compromise board because if there is fresh snow, I'll take out my current rig, or my splitboard. I think all I'll want to do with the carve board is carve. Riding east coast trees with very forward angles seems unpleasant.

  8. I am 180-200lbs generally. 5'10. This will be my first season in hard boots.

    I am looking into purchasing a Donek Metal FreeCarve. What size do you recommend? Does a longer board which means a larger sidecut radii mean larger turns? If I get a large board am I hindering my ability to make tight, lower speed turns?

    Is the titanal worth it for a new carver?

    Do you want to buy it for me? :D

  9. I am looking for a freecarve board and would prefer not to spend $1K+. I'm 200lbs. Expect to get back down to 180ish over the next few months. I've been carving w/ softies on a 164 Ride No.4 for a few years. I was thinking something 170s.

    Where should I be looking? What do you have for me?

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