fumbimo
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Posts posted by fumbimo
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These are very responsive, not the most but they're pretty damn good. The straps are the most comfortable I've ever felt and this binding is by far the most damp ride I've ever felt. I really really like these bindings. I think the ankle strap is maybe a little soft. The bataleon infinity straps are a good upgrade for these. The only real issue I see with these bindings is the flip cams to adjust the strap length. If you have any toe drag at all the snow can catch them and pop it open. I resorted to drilling out the rivet on them and flipping the tabs around so they don't catch.
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is soul actually making ride-able snowboards now? I know some of there previous boards were a deathtrap to ride. especially that notorious pocket rocket.
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My disfunctional family photo
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I went through the hassle of buying some Medium stiffness with wings inserts from japan last year. They are seriously awesome, i loved riding with them. I just grabbed a set or hard stiffness to try out.
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I've owned tons of production softboot carvers and really the vast majority of them just aren't on par with a custom board. Currently my main softboot carver is a coiler contra. It is noticeably more stable and damp than any production board. but also a lot heftier. 27cm waist, 165 length, and 12m sidecut. If all you want to do is carve, i would 100% say getting a custom board like a coiler is worth it. But its definitely less versatile of a board than a production board.
That being said there really are some gems out there. Korua shapes bullet-train is an absolutely phenomenal carver. I'd put it up there with the best of them. Nidecker blade, amplid pentaquark are a couple others. these are all boards i'd be incredibly happy to own and daily drive. They carve incredibly well and are a blast to ride, and you don't feel restricted from hitting the occasional sidehit and goofing around. I think the biggest drawback with most production boards labeled as carving boards is the smaller sidecut radius. The korua bullet train is the best i've gotten to experience at 9.8m.
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1 hour ago, Deuxdiesel said:
The knee tuck and lock seems like a sign that you are struggling to gain leverage over your board- once you do that, most of the input comes from the hips on up. What kind of lean do you have on your highbacks? Are they rotated at all? Your angles and stance width are very similar to what I am running currently, but it would take a ton of effort to get my knees that close. Maybe a bit more information on your set-up?
high backs rotated to line up with the heel edge, about 3/6 forward lean on them. it's just enough that its lined up well with my boots
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9 hours ago, GeoffV said:
That is very creative @fumbimo My son use to spend hours building worlds designing homes in Minecraft when he was younger. He would have loved to put some of that on his Coiler.
Thanks! I loved Minecraft as a kid and did the same. I still binge it once a year or so.
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First proper softboot carver
Coiler contra, 165cm x 27.5cm waist, 12m sidecut
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13 minutes ago, ShortcutToMoncton said:
Your rear knee is tucked in regardless of toeside or heelside. What’s your stance? Lowering your rear angle to have more splay might help.
36/27 degrees, 56 cm width. I've messed with my angles a lot and I think you're right in that more splay helps but it seems to do so only on my toeside. Even running really shallow angles like 9degrees on the back foot I end up doing similar on my heelside.
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I'm looking for some advice for my heel side turns. I tend to straighten my front leg to maintain edge angle on the snow, without doing this I always feel like I'm not going to be able to hold my edge well and either skid my turns or tip over. But this seems to be causing my hips to be sitting above my front foot and my back knee to cave in.
I'm not sure how to address this and I think this is the cause for some back knee pain I've been having so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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7 hours ago, philw said:
There's a thread here where people post music they're listening to... I kind of assumed that was whilst they were riding, but maybe not.
I used to file my records by how noisy they were, and for snowboarding I stick to the noisy end; I suppose it's classed as rock/ punk or something like that, "granny music" I guess. I ride better with a decent rhythm. If I'm riding alone I'll have some voice content for the up-haul.
From a safety perspective, I don't rely on my ears at all. As with my bike riding, I like to look behind all the time so I know what's there. I'm quicker than anyone other than the out of control straight liner, and I'm pretty sure I can see them well before anyone can hear them scream. I've never been hit, and fully intend to keep it that way.
I don't stop on runs either, it breaks my rhythm and kind of ruins the exercise. Each to their own.
Technology: Sony WM4 in-ear buds with custom moulds. You can set up the noise cancelling/ voice amplification plus they'll shut up automatically should you speak to someone. They work reliably inside a helmet even at cold temperatures, and the power lasts all of a winter day at least.I found the thread you're talking about but it didn't seem specific to music while riding. plus it was started in 2018, maybe some people have new stuff to chime in with. Also about the sony WM4, thats super neat that they can stop playing music when you start talking. i just got some new jabra ear buds, wish i knew about this feature on the sony's a week ago haha
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Stumbled upon a post from a couple years ago regarding the benefits of listening to music while carving. Got me wondering for those of you that do like to jam out while riding, what do you listen to? Lets see some playlists or music recommendations!
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4 hours ago, Sheedapistawl said:
@fumbimo very timely and thank you! Yep I have 0 lean front, a few points on back and will now adjust from +42/+27 that I was riding to +42/+33 to try yours
While I figure out a potential riding day with Martin at Park City,
wanted to post two clips of carving (..or failing to..) from Park City, I’m on a Soul 165XT, +42/+27 and have been following the K-carving guys videos a lot
many things are wrong here but I typically find it way easier to get deep turns on toe side (still need some work to keep torso away from snow and getting back knee lower into snow), but I am REALLY struggling with getting that upper torso and pelvic rotation “into and leading the heelside turn” which also I think gets one low enough to touch snow on heelsides. My left Butt cheek is hurting today from 3 consecutive days of edge giving out most times I tried to really get lower than shown here.
the Korean guys tip of sitting in the tail with back knee bent and extending the front leg definitely helped with heelside turn initiation but every time I tried to go lower and get my butt and left hand close to the snow I just fall into the carve unable to recover to an edge change to toe side…
two videos front and back view:
example of heelside washout:
I feel like i struggled with this exact thing earlier this season, what worked for me was just focusing on what he talked about in the 2nd/3rd video. the basic carving. i went back to the bunny hill and tried to link turns without any sort of unweighting in my turns, no angulation. trying to maintain that posture as static as possible. It did wonders for me. i did it with my hands on my hips so i could confirm i was maintaining the rotation. also i just focused on keeping my pelvis rotated and didn't pay as much attention to my torso at that point.
Im noticing you're starting the turns with some forward hip rotation but you unwind your hips and finish the turn as if you're riding duck almost. it's very foreign feeling at first but to maintain the hip rotation throughout the turn it kinda feels like you're constantly trying to rotate more and more throughout the turn.
Another thing that might help is where you're pointing your head. it looks like on your heelside you stay looking relatively down the fall line. i try to force my head to face and look where i want to be going, more across the hill. it helps everything align the right way.
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I haven't been able to solve heel lift in my .951's and i'm not sure where to go from here. im in a c shell, stock liner.
I've been trying variations of adhesive foam j-bars on the liner but as I've started to wear it in I'm now at the point where im maxing out the ankle buckle and still having some heel slop.
I'm no where near maxing out any of the other buckles, i usually have the toe buckle on the 2nd notch. I've already had the toe box widened on both boots.I'm open to the idea of new liners but i don't really know where to start with this. also concerned higher volume liners will be too cramped in the toe box area.
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I have the same bindings and I've always ran them at the max 36/27 angles. you could get it up to 36 on the back foot by sanding down 3 of the teeth on each half of the disk. shouldn't be too hard to do. you don't need to remove the portion of the teeth on the underside of the disk
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I got "ski-board" this past week. Heard him chatting behind me, "woh look at that ski-board, they use ski bindings on those!"
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On 1/14/2023 at 6:00 PM, Sheedapistawl said:
Wow that K-carving series is fantastic!!
I need to practice this pelvic positioning thing seems to be the most crucial part
what are folks trying this running on their boards? I have a US 10.5 boot on a 27cm waist carving deck and I’m doing +33 +21 but maybe I should try +39/+24 since that dude is running +42… sadly the high backs on my Flow NX2 don’t rotate… I was also riding with a lot of forward lean I’ll try removing it but it’s gonna be sketchy for heelsides… I was riding 4/5 lean front and 2/5 lean back
im running 42/33 with no highback rotation, it's not really that crucial. I definitely think you should try a stance as he suggests. im running 42/33 right now and i find it a lot nicer to carve in compared to what you're running. i also find specifically for this k-carving style its a lot more comfortable with these steep angles. also removing forward lean on the front foot helped a lot. currently using 1/4 on the front and 3/4 on the back.
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Got nothing for in terms of instructors who could help in person but I've been spamming this playlist everywhere possible. it's the single most helpful thing I've had for learning this style of riding. the first 5 videos are key. my personal experience has been coming from duck stance carving, i took these exercises to the bunny hill and have improved significantly over the past 10-15 days with it.
enable subtitles, there is a proper english transcription on the videos
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6 minutes ago, ShortcutToMoncton said:
Are these newly delivered Coilers, or older?
Mine was just made, i picked it up from Bruce this past weekend.
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I'm sure you've probably got this sorted by now but Corbetts in Oakville is pretty great as well as skiis and bikes in Mississauga
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3 hours ago, Neil Gendzwill said:
I want to hear a report on the Pocket Rocket. Full rockered 129 with a 30 cm+ waist?
Yup! It's an absolute blast. Stiffer than you'd expect. Gotta be careful backloading with the complete absence of tail. Keep your weight forward and it holds and edge better than you'd expect and is really fun to carve on good groomers. It bounces on top of any rough conditions but it's still fun to ride slow and slashy with it. In powder it's a blast but we don't get much of that in Ontario
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Picked up a few new guys this week.
Coiler Contra 170, Rossignol sashimi 160, korua shapes pocket rocket.
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Thanks again for all the advice. I think Corey and Xargo hit the nail on the head. thinking about trying to face forward and point my knees forward left me in a really bad position. I had a revelation when i threw all of that out of the window and focused on keeping my hips rotated as much as possible, letting the rest of my body do whatever it needed to do to maintain the hip rotation.
Digging through many other forum posts i stumbled upon this playlist. re sharing in case maybe this is helpful for others struggling with the same issue. Another forum member here did a proper English translation that will show up if you enable subtitles. I found the first 5 video's to be incredibly helpful.
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Rome CLEAVER bindings
in Softboot Carving Gear Reviews
Posted
I used an m3 screw/nut and covered the nut side in por15 seam sealer