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ChR1s

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  3. Burton Shadow 24.5

    in For Sale

    Posted · Edited by ChR1s
    item is sold

    Burton Shadow

    Mondopoint 24.5

    These boots were worn no more than six times. All hardware intact as new, no cuts in liner cuff/tongue, very slight wear on sole.

    $ SOLD

    post-400-141842419716_thumb.jpg

    post-400-141842419713_thumb.jpg

  9. Tree Board advice

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I've got a Burton Malolo 162 for New England resort powder days. I'm 6', 200lb. The board floats me in pow, and pivots well without having to shift my weight. And when back on the groomers, it can still hold an edge without washing out. For a dedicated trees board, I'd always wanted to have a Fish in the quiver though. While the Malolo is very versatile, it's just a bit too slow turning for rapid descents through tight trees. Open trees, the Malolo is fine.

  10. Boot Fit Issues

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    So I got a chance to finally get out on my new burton Ions. I am split on them. My right foot is super comfy' date=' best boot ever! My left foot however, ouch. When I get back on my heel edge or stand straight while in the lift line my big toe gets squished forward. After a while it is really unbearable. Any thoughts? I have my feet measured and my left foot is a 1/4 size longer than my right. Wxplains the difference but there is ample room in there. I can fit two fingers between my heel and the shell with the liner out, tight but they fit. More like 1.5 though. I have walked about 5 miles or so in them to try and loosen them up a bit. Any advice?[/quote']

    I had similar experiences with the Ions. A size 10 seemed too tight, a 10.5 seemed too roomy. Sometimes when a boot gets flexed forward the area before the toe box gets squashed down, which effectively increases the width of the boot. When that happens the foot can slide foward in the boot, causing the toes to move forward. Eliminating that can be tough. What has worked for me is to tighten the upper laces more, while trying not to tighten the lower laces too much. Like that, the ankle strap of the binding has a better hold of the boot because there's less compression of the boot material, and more input to the binding. That in turn reduces the forward lean necessary, and therefore less flexing (widening) of the lower part of the boot, keeping the feet in place.

    If nothing else works, you could remove some of the material from the outside of the liner in the area where there's a pressure point?

  14. Pain free feet?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I've found the "toe box" on the Burton boots to be on the small side, so getting a good fit is tough -- try to downsize to a smaller boot for tighter fit and the toes get jammed up. My bro just picked up a pair of Stratos Pro boots -- they seem to have a much larger toe box, and permit a snug fitting shell w/o mashing the little piggies. Nice liner, too. The Deelux boots seem to be a bit narrow, and some of the hardware doesn't seem all that burly.

  17. New Boots.

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Color me underwhelmed after a recent experience there. Perhaps I was expecting too much, but it'd be nice if the persons fitting & selling were a bit more knowledgeable about the product than the customer. Not a bad experience, just not overly satisfying. They got the job done.

  21. elan balastic 171 vs burton ultra prime 168

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I like my Burton boards just fine. And you can find them for short money. I've yet to break any board during the past 15 seasons, but know of plenty broken boards, Burton among others. Bode Miller broke one of his skis a couple weekends ago. Does that mean his skis suck? I'll say the UP is a nice, quality board for getting a grip on carving. I can't offer any input about the Elan deal, but either of those two boards may feel a bit lengthy if either is to be your first alpine board, IMHO.

  23. elan balastic 171 vs burton ultra prime 168

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I'm 6', 180+ lb, and have an UP169. At first I thought the board was neato. It turned effortlessly and held a line okay, was forgiving at moderate speed, and the base was way fast. Once I started railing turns harder and was messing around with my riding technique, I found the board to be sketchy at speed, and overly eager to turn with only modest input. I then favored a stiffer board. However, I do prefer the UP169 for moderate, softer conditions. And it's easier to thread through crowds than my FP173. I think of it as a carviing board I can relax on, but don't want to count on at high speed.

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