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Kurt Swanson

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Posts posted by Kurt Swanson

  1. 37 minutes ago, Aracan said:

    So much this. There is a huge demographic out there that can watch you carve across the fall line six times, and the seventh will take them completely by surprise.

    Agreed. I was hit from behind this year by a skier while I was doing very narrow turns, no big carves across the fall-line. I was okay and he stopped to apologize. Of course now my paranoia, which was high to begin, with is through the roof.

    • Like 1
  2. At the end of this season I wrote down some notes as reminders for next year. What I have so far is shown below. It would interesting to have a more detailed step-by-step account of the techniques involved in carving. My notes are far from complete and may not even apply to everyone. Anyone up for adding more details?

     

    Heelside

    1.      Start riding perpendicular to the fall line

    2.      Move weight slightly towards the front of the board, with shoulders facing the front of board

    3.      Shift board uphill

    4.      Apply pressure to the front heel while pulling the rear knee towards the inside of the turn

    5.      Angulate the upper body away from the turn

    6.      As the turn progresses shift weight slightly towards the rear of the board

    Toeside

    7.      Start riding perpendicular to the fall line again

    8.      Move weight slightly towards the front of the board, with shoulders facing the front of board

    9.      Shift board uphill

    10.   Apply pressure to the rear toe while pulling the front knee towards the inside of the turn

    11.   Angulate the upper body away from the turn

    12.   As the turn progresses shift weight slightly towards the rear of the board

    • Like 1
  3. After the paint on my BTS springs started chipping off, I stripped them completely and then polished them on a buffing wheel until they looked chrome-plated. That lasted for several seasons but now are showing rust again. Anyone else run into this issue? If so, what was your remedy? I'm considering titanium springs, but that's got to be pretty expensive...

  4. On 2/21/2023 at 1:47 PM, Jack M said:

    Umm... don't do that.

    I should probably clarify that statement. When I say stiffen my front leg during a heelside turn, what I'm really doing is driving my front heel hard into the snow through the whole turn, especially when initiating the turn. I wasn't doing that before and as a result my heelside turn would start with me skidding the turn before the edge would grab hold. My front knee still flexes to absorb shock while I'm focusing on pressuring that front heel though...

    • Like 3
  5. After nine years, finally learning the subtle techniques to carve on steeper runs:

    1. Keeping my front leg stiff and not flexing the knee.

    2. Pulling my rear knee into the turn instead of letting it point outward

    3. Turning the board slightly uphill before initiating the turn

    4. Having Chester at Montucky Clear Cut center my bindings on the board (just a few centimeters, huge difference)

    Applying these four techniques have been a total game changer for my carving.

    • Like 2
  6. Resurrecting this thread from last year to report some progress and tips. First, I realized that if I pressed down hard on my front heel while starting my heelside turn, the edge would grab better. It sort of feels like a running back stiff-arming a defenseman out of the way. I was doing this on the green runs, but when it got a little steeper I was subconsciously chickening out and holding back. Second, remembering something I learned (and forgot) a while ago, was to push my knee into the direction of the turn. These two minor changes resulted in heel turns being a thin line instead of washing out at the beginning and then grabbing and carving. 

    I was trying to figure out what I was doing wrong by watching videos of me riding, but those mistakes were too subtle to notice....

     

    • Like 4
  7. 2015 Donek Rev 170 demo board for sale. Asking price $300, buyer to pay for shipping. The board is in great shape. The specs are as follows:

    Running length: 152cm

    Shovel sidecut: 9m

    Tail sidecut: 16m

    Shovel width: 24.3cm

    Waist width: 18.5cm

    Tail width: 22cm

    Thanks for looking!

     

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  8. TD2 Step-ins for sale with the steel receivers. Includes are 3 and 6 degree cants. Bindings are in great shape with normal wear for bindings of this age. $180, buyer pays for shipping.

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  9. On 1/5/2021 at 6:37 AM, Corey said:

    Line up the engraved dot in the cant disc with your binding angle, or close.  

    Easy graphical interface if you want to quantify, though it doesn't work on my phone: http://www.alpinecarving.com/tmtd2/

    Search for TD2 Tweak O Matic if that doesn't work. 

    Thanks Corey, I was hoping to find that. Not a good feeling finding out I've had the cant disks setup wrong for years. Explains some other "issues I've had...

  10. This may be a little off-topic, but if I want to run my rear binding (TD3) with 6 degree heel lift and no canting, does that mean the tallest part of the cant plate is directly under my heel? I may have mis-understood how these are supposed to be setup and I can't seem to find any info out there regarding setup.

  11. I'm sure this is a familiar topic. I'm having a hard time initiating heelside turns on steeper runs. I suspect the issue is fear of committing my inside edge at the beginning the turn, but am thinking it could be my body positioning on the board or how I have my bindings set-up. Binding angles are 65 degrees front, 50 degrees rear, 3 degree toe lift, 6 degree heel lift and 20 3/4" stance width centered on the board. I'm 5'10" and 155lbs. I'm going to bring my rear binding up to 60 degrees today to see if that makes any difference. Any suggestions?

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