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0815-fahrer

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Posts posted by 0815-fahrer

  1. It was just great to meet up with all people again, especially with Sean (again) and Todd (new)...

    I assume Sean has made his conclusions regarding the "Eurocarve-style"...... And Todd even managed to ride my 185/15 cm board without serious injuries:rolleyes:

    Cheers, Eric

  2. The second frozen-backside video (post #12), at 3:18, shows the perfect tool for avoiding lift-line crowding and topsheet damage.

    Also, they're frickin' maniacs. I wanna ride with them.

    That "tool" is only milled aluminum. but it works great. Glued to the board with a bit of Sikaflex.

    Regarding "riding with them": just do it !! check our website, and look for the "events"

    Big event in March again, in Silvretta Montafon (Austria), with the Pureboarding guys and gals.

  3. What does this guy have on his arms?

    Are these home-made? Purchased? I'm interested in making/buying something like this.

    As I remember right it were parts of board base material, glued to the glove.

    Maybe one of the LaydownKangaroos can specify that a bit more.

  4. Hi both, nice to see some more international stuff happening on the FB. There is an english section in there, and all the members know english, so just jump in there.

    Native language is German, try google will help, but probably not always to understand the "bullsh*t" that is being written there :-)

    @Michael: try to log on now... account is created (as you suggested, the michael_a account)

    Edit: I already set your system language to english :)

  5. Hey,

    I'm in Germany quite often now and am trying to find out what ze German carvers are up to, but I can't for the life of me register on the frozen-backside.de forums as my "email address is invalid". Well, I tried all three of my gmail address and nothing works. Can anyone find out for me or ask an admin what's the deal here, or provide me with some contact details? Do I need a German-only email address?

    Appreciate any help

    Michael

    Hi Michael,

    due to the fact the Forum was hacked, and some other stuff, I had to shut down several IP and email ranges. gmail is one of them.

    This only affects new registrations.

    I could make you a manual registration anytime, no problem, just send me a PN here...

    Cheers

    Eric

  6. If I might be allowed to talk about some exotic ones from across the pond:

    The Dupraz is good in the soft, but on hardpack............. just turns too tight and is too slobby.

    But there is the Alpinepunk from Sweden... designed for just that !... Afterburner, Metalburner and Superswede, they all do it better on hardpack, and can hold their own in the pow.

    I tested a board from Switzerland last februar, an Oxess Prototype.... 180ish, +20ish wide, was great in pow, and also made a very good feeling on the slopes. Tight and laid out. Oxess-Typical extreme long effective edge.

    Best of both worlds combined I have witnessed so far, driven myselves or seen driven, is the Virus "La Glisse" 186. Gun shape. Above that there is the same shape in even more awesome technique, the "Godess". Seen full laid out turns EC-Style as well as power stuff. And Powder stuff.

    Another awesome league is the "Pogo" Pow longboard, also from Germany, but for pow only.

  7. Don´t know what your problems are....:eek:

    a: you buy new heels. the nuts and bolts are included.

    Newer UPZ have the nuts installed.

    in older ones you have to put them in.

    method: get a larger (50mm or so) M6 bolt (Hex head) without the locktite on it, and some washers. Put the heel in place, drive the long bolt with washers through and place the nut. This makes sure it is aligned. Then start tightening it untill it FULLY rests on the shoe´s sole. You pull it in place. Use a flashlight to check!

    also do this on new UPZ where the nuts were originally installed, to really drive (pull) them in.

    b: used heels and shoes not nutted.

    Get those nuts and M6 bolts from your local hardware store, and also one longer one, together with some washers, and do the above. Remove the longer screw and replace with fitting phillips head, alle, torx whateverscrews with some medium loctite. Check for fastening after a half a day of boarding.

  8. Seriously?

    I am still rocking my pair from 3 YEARS AGO and I have never used any type of waterproofer on them. They are still in fantastic shape! Just recently I have noticed at the end of a long day of riding my gloves seem to be a little damp on the outside. I can not feel any of this dampness inside. Mind you these gloves have 3 YEARS of hard riding under them, thats over 200+ days of riding!!!

    Just recently I was lucky enough to get another pair for Christmas. I am still rocking my old pair though...because they are still that good...

    ...

    But ya, you might want to go spend anywhere from 2-3 times as much for a pair of gloves that are waterproof. Maybe you will be lucky if they make it through half a season of mamby pamby riding....

    @Ace....

    when again did you move into the soft stuff area?

    :D

    Mine have 150+ with "full dogg petting", Ugly Laydownstuff, Chrueppelcarving and so on on Europes slopes... most Hardpack/Icy.

    Caught myselves more than once where it was -20°C and Gloves were hot after a loooooong laydown. Gloves still alive.

    But I also have to give a negative note to those gloves. Mine are heavily modificated by now from the outside, but tearing apart from the inside.

    Always wore thin inner gloves in them, since day 2, otherwise they were too cold

    day 1 was so Frig**** you can guess the rest:D

    Outside protected by "Sikaflex" for rubbing through, guess have the 4th grind layer now. Pinkey to middlefinger glued together to minimize the impact of "Death Cookies".

    The long sleeve model I have is genious if it comes to snow penetration. but it needs "Sika" now and then too.

    Fact.. best gloves ever.... but cold, and they do wear out from the inside.

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