Kaida
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Posts posted by Kaida
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Step-ins usually provide a stiffer interface than the equivalent standards. It's arguably more convenient, but ultimately it's a matter of preference.
If you're set on standard bindings, check out the classifieds for some used TD2's. Where in Cali are you located? If you're local to me, I have a set of TD2 standards (or step-ins) you can use until those Cateks come in.
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Flat on the floor, my feet measure 27.3 and 27.5. I started with MP27 boots, but I really had to crank them down to keep my foot from sliding. Using footbeds, I squeeze into MP26. It's certainly a performance fit. I can get through the day without any discomfort but, I am guilty of flipping up the bottom two latches sometimes on lift rides up. I will probably go for 26.5 next time.
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5'8" 165 lbs. and squeeze into MP26.
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I too love the long leashes doubling as a shoulder strap. Even if leashes may not save the day in all situations, it provides enough safety benefits that I consider it necessary equipment.
Ultimately, they're like helmets. Some people don't think they need to wear one, but when/if the day comes -- with leash or helmet, you're going to thank your lucky stars you had one, or cursing yourself for not.
Odds are, resorts' insurance policies probably require leashes to be in use, so enforcement of the rule is just CYA.
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I've got a BX board that hasn't been out of the quiver for a while.
Oxygen Supercross (SX) 164.
Running length: 136.5
Width: 240
Sidecut: 8.5/9.5 progressive
PM if interested.
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Unfortunately, the Double Whammy season pass group buy deadline was 10/31.
http://www.northstarattahoe.com/info/ski/tickets-passes/season-pass.asp
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Next in line.
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Looks like it's included with Wii Fit. Glad I have it on pre-order. For those interested in picking this up, I'd recommend doing the same. It's sold like gangbusters in Japan and Europe.
Here's are a couple more videos. Check out the angulation :D
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Come ON ...., where are your pics?!!?
Uh, edited his original post to show it...
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What did that sign the skier was holding read?
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I think blems that occur during manufacturing that don't negatively affect performance aren't a big deal when you consider these snowboards are handmade. If everyone expected a perfect product given how they're manufactured, it would lower the production yield and increase the price. If the original buyer didn't get a break on the blem, should you? The buck will have to stop somewhere if such a precedent begins, and ultimately, it'd go back to the manufacturer and lead to higher prices.
As for names being printed on the board, that's not terribly uncommon. I believe Donek puts on every board, along with the specs, the name of the person for whom the board was built for.
I'm not taking sides about the whole auction situation, but I believe your expectations may have been a bit high for the type of board you purchased. These aren't off-the-shelf mass produced boards.
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Are you sure they're getting rid of the entire feedback system? I remember reading about some changes to the system for 2008. Read about it here: http://pages.ebay.com/services/forum/new.html
I like those changes. They make a lot of sense. If they got rid of the entire feedback system, I think it would be a bad decision for eBay. It's hard to get accountability into such an open system, and I think for some, earning a good feedback rating encourages people to shop/sell more -- kind of like a carrot on a stick.
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That's the mean, not median. :DMedian should be right then!
17.5 + 20 + 19.4 = ~19 ;)
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I agree that a wider stance will help. I'm 5'8" with a 30 inch inseam, and used to ride an FP167 at the reference stance width of 17". I then switched to a Donek FCII 167 and used the center inserts which put me at 19.25" or so. My riding saw an immediate improvement with a wider stance. It was more stable and I felt more planted when getting low because it was easier to achieve a lower center of gravity. It could have been partly because of the board, but it was a breakthrough day -- everything seemed to click.
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Email sent.
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I've seen folks have their intec release cables sticking outside their pants if they wear shorter ski pants (nothing wrong with them, hardboots anyways). However, I have no problem reaching and pulling the handle through my pants as most folks who use step-ins do. I wrap the inner cuff around the top of the boot but don't put the cable inside. That way, there's only one layer of pant I need to grab the handle through. It's not hard. Some folks have designed extensions that go further up the pant so they can release without bending over, or in case they get stuck in a tree well and can't bend over to reach the release handle.
The TD1 step-ins are definitely one of the stiffest bindings you can get, and what WB was telling you was to just go out and ride what you've got. When you're starting off, gear isn't nearly as important as just getting your runs in. You never know if it's too stiff if you've never tried it. It also depends on your weight, and riding style. You may find out you prefer a stiff binding, maybe not. Worst case, you sell them in the classifieds (probably for very close to what you paid) and find something else more suitable. I'm 160 pounds and could get away with flexier bindings, but am currently running TD2 step-ins. Stiff? I have nothing to compare them to, but I'm doing fine in them and don't really want to change that variable yet for my riding.
Lastly, try to find carvers in your area through the ride boards here on the forums. One of the best ways to learn is to ride with other fellow carvers. And depending on where you're located, the local group might even have a demo fleet or some generous folks who can help you with some gear to try out so you can see what you like.
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Let it heal correctly. It's definitely too early to think snow right now. Is a few weeks of riding worth a lifetime of regret if you your clavicle didn't heal correctly or heaven forbid, you seriously aggravate the injury in some freak accident?
If you are to go against doctor's orders, get a second opinion from a different doc who's a bit more understanding of those with active lifestyles. Perhaps he/she will give you a different timeframe that you can live with.
I think you know what's best, you just need to hear it from others. :D Hang in there!
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The Factory Prime 167 has a sidecut radius of ~12.3 meters, the Speedster 183 has a sidecut radius probably closer to 15-16 meters. I don't know the specs on the Kildy, but I assume based on its length, that it has a tighter sidecut radius being a slalom board. You should look into boards with a smaller sidecut if you want tighter turns. They are available in longer lengths. For example, the Donek Freecarve 167 has a radius of 10.6 meters.
However, at 230 pounds, you should have the power to easily decamber a longer board (thus tightening up the sidecut) with a more aggressive style. Of course, it depends on where you ride, how fast you're comfortable going, etc. There have been a few threads lately talking about being dynamic in your form and not just riding the sidecut. I too have an FP167 as well as a FCII 167, and I'm 160 pounds. The boards certainly ride differently, and the two GS boards, particularly the F2, you have right now are more aimed for wide sweeping turns and need more speed before they want to behave.
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Bomber makes replacements with a much more durable eurethane material.
http://www.bomberonline.com/store/accessories/bomber_boot_pads.cfm
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Careful relying on the Recco system. From what I've been told by the Avalnache instructors with the CAA (canadian avalanche association) the RECCO system requires a large/cumbersom machine to be mounted into a helicopter...this would take awhile to accomplish in an avy situation.
If you're heading out of bounds, get avy training, read the avalanche bulletins, have gear (incl beacons/shovels/propes) with training on their use and go with a buddy.
-Gord
I totally agree with getting avy training and knowing the conditions. The RECCO system is another tool in being prepared and is cheap insurance. The system is usable on foot/skis as well as on a helicopter. Per their site:
The rescue crew can effectively search with the detector whether on foot, on skis or in a helicopter. Searching by helicopter has become a common use of the RECCO detector due to its extensive range through the air. In this situation, the pilot can be wired to hear the signal through his or her headphones, enabling the helicopter to quickly hone in on the burial and saving significant time in an organized rescue. The detector transports easily, loads quickly and also requires no external apparatus, making it ideal for this airborne application. -
Here's a list of resorts that use the RECCO system. If your local resort doesn't use it and is at risk of avalanches, encourage them to promote the safety of their customers and staff.
http://www.recco.com/resorts/index.asp
More and more gear is coming equipped with these passive (read: idiot proof) reflectors. Read more about this interesting technology on their site. They also encourage you to have two reflectors on your person in the event you are trapped in an akward position and your body is blocking one of the reflectors.
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Email sent.
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Yep. You push your boot forward into the toe bail, and then step down. When there's a lot of soft snow, you should make sure there isn't snow built up on the heel receiver and the bottom of your boot to ensure the pins engage. If your boot isn't seated all the way down, there's a possibility that only one or neither of the pins engage which can lead to premature release.
You usually will hear a nice click when the pins engage, and it's good practice to visually confirm your heel is locked in before heading down the mountain.
The only time I'd imagine not being able to get out of the binding is if the release cable snaps. In that case, you'll have to manually push the pins in with some tools, twigs, plastic eating utensils, or anything else that's handy. However, cable kits are sold and it's advisable to inspect the heel assembly and cable for wear at least once a season depending on usage.
Delam? Help, please!
in Carving Central
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They do indeed have syringes if you need to get the epoxy deep in there.
Near the bottom of the page: http://www.tognar.com/base_repair_tools_iron_ptex_gouges_damage.html