gabor
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Posts posted by gabor
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Your bindings are surely too long for the boots. Try reducing the length. The ability to lift the toe and the loose binding with the heel receiver is an indicator of improper length adjustment.
The length should be set so tight that clipped in you shouldn't be able to rock the boots with hands. Light movements can be possible if you are in the boots.
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I have the SL 163 from 07-08 and ridden the SP 172 from 05-06 and 06-07. For me the SL is way more better, more stable, the SCR difference (9.5 vs. 11 m) is not really noticeable. Once i've ridden a GTS but no real experience.
I doubt that the SL has titanal in it at least the catalogue didn't mention it. The SL is the most torsionally stiff from the three boards (SP, SL, GTS).
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F2 separated the soft and hard lines. The soft line is now called FTWO, the products can be found at http://www.ftwo-international.com/. The hard line remained F2.
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Now I have a clue. Riding steep so long would be really fun.
Last season the Sykora hang was not really rideable. I was ridden it the season before.
I also suffer from reaching for the snow but working hard not to. One of my friend can carve down both Haesing and Sykora so that he never touches the snow with his hands. Quite impressive.
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Hi István,
Just to get a picture about steepness. How steep is Zinal compared to Hochkar Hasing (5a) and Sykora (10a) slopes?
We nearly met two years ago in Hochkar at March. Only I had knee problems and needed to stay home :(. One of my friend told me that you met there.
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Too many riders are breaking at waist if beginning toeside. Time to work on it for them. There are some great carving as well but the majority still needs big improvement. Maybe the original EC videos did set too high standards.
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jtslalom,
I think I was easy to misunderstood. I know that softboot carving is not a special thing. I myself nearly always carve on my soft setup if used. Just wanted to explain to Phil why do I prefer to use the same type of gear when teaching.
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Cheat? What are you talking about? Carving is just as easy in softies as it is in hardboots. Hardboots foster high performance carving, but they are not "cheating" when learning to carve. I would like to know more about where you get your perspective - it does not make any sense to me.
Phil,
Carving is NOT as easy in softies. Especially not for carving newbies. Less torsional stiffness, less support from boots and bindings, different stance, less grip. In the same type of gear I can check and show better if the student makes something wrong or the conditions are not ideal.
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Why should I prove it's doable on soft gear?
Because not everybody is beginner. Riders, who learned for a week (or a bit less), are able to begin to learn proper carving technique. If I teach them with a slalom board and they are on soft gear, I only insulting them because what I show them is much easier with alpine gear than on soft one. I can show them learning techniques but the whole process is more authentic if I don't cheat.
I agree that beginners don't notice the difference. Teaching them does not need special gear.
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Teaching with the same type of equipment as the students can be a better choice. How can you prove in hardboots that carving on soft gear is doable?
Last year I converted some buddies to alpine riders. Teaching on soft gear, after the lesson immediately changing to hardboots and carving the hills. More impressive than trying to prove in hard gear that everything is doable with that.
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Not Swoard but once i've ridden a Swoard-like custom board. For my small feet it was a bit wide (needed 45 degree stance) and slow edge-to-edge but I'm used to ride with 18 cm boards. That wide board was very good at any type of carving but because of width definitely not good for racing. I don't characterise it as a low speed carver, found it fast, stable and forgiving.
If you cannot find a wide enough factory board go for customs.
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Hi,
I found the videos not so bad. Yes, does not look nice but way better than really sitting on the toilet. Go to the articles section and read "the norm II" and "Practice drills". I think the shoulders level to the slope (you fail to do it on frontside carves) and back hand touching front boot on backsides should help a lot.
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Many years ago I used ski boots for snowboarding because of financial problems. I thought that if I switch often between snowboard and ski I need only one pair of boots and the difference is not significant. Bad technique and some discomfort was the consequence.
Once I tried snowboard boots for two runs. Next day I sold my barely used ski boots and bought a new pair of snowboard boots. I will never ever board in ski boots no matter what. Better skiing or softbooting but hardbooting in unmodified ski boots... No, thanks.
Ski boots tend to have only moderate forward lean. You can flex them hard but still keep the legs straight. That is bad for rear leg. Even Indys allow more forward lean and flex than the softest ski boots.
BlueB,
If the animated gif in your profile reflects your current style I think your rear leg is too straight. It can be easily fixed with snowboard boots.
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This year I will ride Intec and standard both. Until now I used only standard bails but last year tried Intec. The difference is really not big. Why did I buy Intec?
Maybe there are some psychological reason. The carvers almanac writes some about safety. Standard bails did not release in my experience but I broke some. Fortunately boot always remained in the binding and I realised the breakage only after stopping. If the Intec does not release it seems to me a more reliable system.
Toe clips on standard bails need some more place than intec toe bail. Not a big difference though.
Stepping in and out speed difference is not so big. If the slope has some steepness throughout the whole length, standard bails are not slower to get in. But if you have to skate sometimes there is a huge difference in comfort.
Stepping out is faster from standard bails for me...
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Yes Jack, of course. Only the first sentence applies to You, the others are for JJ. You are right about "square" too.
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Hey Jack, very nice pictures (especially the upper one)!
When I first read that article I thought that this is bull**** (much years ago). One year before I started carving, and the best suggestion was riding with knees together.
Fortunately I tried discovering new things and found that the article is very good. Riding with knees apart gives stability in rough terrain and better maneuverability.
From my experience turns are easier with back knee forced inside the turn what is knees apart for frontside turns and knees together for backside ones. But you should force the knees together independently, that means you dont stick them together only keep them close.
As for shoulders parallel to the slope it is very important for keeping weight on the edges. Shoulders square (like yours) means that you push the edges away from you what causes in case of extreme board angles scraping the snow. Shoulders parallel means you push the edges directly into the snow. Last year I've seen a ski instructor to demonstrate this on horizontal terrain. Going C shape you can go low and still maintain balance on one edge (weight straight down the slope), but if you stay erect weighing only one edge produces falling down.
What you do is nice but only a little piece of carving. Try things out and you will be amazed how much you can develop.
Is EC carving your goal?
in Carving Central
Posted
I voted no. I did and unfortunately do EC on steep slopes. However EC is EASY on steep and icy, and hides technical mistakes. Too much weight on hands, too much body drag. Lots of people reach for the snow on toesides. Riding a race course is impossible with this technique.
Now I try to eliminate all drags, and stay on edge without touching the snow. My next goal is to participate on races. Other goals are carving fakie, moguls, etc.