snow|3oarder Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 Is it possible to scrape too much or too hard? (with the plexi glass scraper) Also, when I waxed my donek (im new to this) I used dominator zoom all temp, which happens to be black in color. I noticed some small black streaks remained after i scraped off the wax. Should I be concerned? I noticed some swirl marks after using my iron....I assume this is coming from the iron...any tips? Also....Ive had trouble sharpening my edges, so I usually ask to get that done professionally. What tools are best for easily sharpening edges? Is there some secret that im missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 or graphite and it does leave some in your base, no worries, its not a bad thing just kinda ugly, on the upside its fast in dry snow. some bases such as the bases Rosignol used to use on some boards are very soft and can be damaged if you scrape too hard, not the case with any of my doneks though but I have had some weird buildup on my iron, I would understand this if I used high temps but I don't just make sure your iron is not too hot, make sure it melts the wax but does not burn it and that you don't keep the iron in one place too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow|3oarder Posted December 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 its graphite.....good to know im not tearing the base to shreds. I assume it will come out if i use base cleaner...although i didnt try that yet. Do you guys use base cleaner every time you wax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 NO. base cleaner is not something to be used regularly if at all! a hot scrape will clean your base rather nicely soft, good penetrating wax, scraped when still warm, then repeated until the junk comes out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skategoat Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 I've tried about 18 different waxes on skiis and boards and have *never* noticed a difference when I ride in any snow condition. I used to hot wax my boards and not even bother scraping. I let Mother Nature do the scraping. Now I scrape and structure with a brush but again, I don't notice any difference on the snow. This year, I'm going to experiment and try parrafin (ya, that stuff your mom uses for canning). Will it slow me down? I kinda hope so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 that **** is crazy fast in the right conditions. when different waxes really count is when it is very cold/dry, warm/wet and when the snow is old and granular, for the latter its more about protecting your base than speed though. most of us here though are tune geeks and are trying to get the most out of our boards that we can, so we do put way more time into it than your average snowboarder. A good tune does make your day on the hill that much better. Skategoat if you never notice a difference something is wrong, even my girlfriend started to notice when I chaged waxes on her board a couple seasons ago, she was a big fan of the expensive burton wax that I think was made by dominator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRidesSquaw Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 Dont ever use that citric base cleaner stuff, it drys your base out, instead just hotscrape with a soft hydrocarbon wax or base prep (dominator makes a great baseprep wax). Wax it on and then scrape it almost immediately, make sure you scrape all of it off and then brush and keep brushing till everything is gone. Then let your board sit a little before waxing whatever wax you are gonna use for riding with. When you are sharpening edges, use a diamond stone (moonflex makes killer stones) at a 70 degree angle or so on your base and side edges. Try to find a fine grit for polishing and a gritter stone for taking out big burs and gauges in your edges. If you google it you could probably find a picture explanation of how to use a diamond stone on your edges. If you want to reset your side edge bevels you really need to get a guide. I know my coach does it without a guide and his edges are super variable from tune to tune. Don't do your base bevel without getting a basegrind at the same time, so you should have a shop do that. One more thing, remember that graphite wax is great for old snow but it is horrible for new snow (powder or manmade) so it is best to have a block of both dominator zooms for different snow conditions. -Rob also, never wax fluoronated wax unless you are racing in conditions that require fluoros. Flurocarbons eat away at your p-tex and are harmful to your base if left on, so if you do wax them for a race hotscrape them off asap. Don't ever use them for a ride around wax, they may be faster but overtime they will slow you down a lot. THe more hydrocarbon you wax the faster your board will go so stick to that stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veector Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 this thread is a bounty of knowledge gotta remeber some of this stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TUNING-STATION-SKI-SNOWBOARD-TUNE-UP-KIT-WITH-WAX_W0QQitemZ8730503568QQcategoryZ62170QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem the tool that comes with it is the old version of the swix exactor, it is a decent tool but by no means the best, I have one and its what I prefer for normal upkeep. flouro waxes do take a toll on your base but in my case I get a grind every year anyhow so as long as I don't go nuts I am okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Donnelly Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 http://www.tognar.com/tips_tricks_information_ski_snowboard_waxing_tuning_repair_tools.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skategoat Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 Skategoat if you never notice a difference something is wrong, even my girlfriend started to notice when I chaged waxes on her board a couple seasons ago, she was a big fan of the expensive burton wax that I think was made by dominator. Mind you, I've never used the flouro stuff which I hear is crazy fast. But then again, I don't want or need to go any faster than I do now. I'm serious when I say I would actually like to find something that makes me go slower. I'm not racing, just rec. carving and I'm usually at the bottom of the hill waiting for people on each run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy T. Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 Don't do your base bevel without getting a basegrind at the same time,Rob, Why is that? Will you end up with you edges being lower than the base? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow|3oarder Posted December 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TUNING-STATION-SKI-SNOWBOARD-TUNE-UP-KIT-WITH-WAX_W0QQitemZ8730503568QQcategoryZ62170QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemthe tool that comes with it is the old version of the swix exactor, it is a decent tool but by no means the best, I have one and its what I prefer for normal upkeep. flouro waxes do take a toll on your base but in my case I get a grind every year anyhow so as long as I don't go nuts I am okay. I tried using the similar 30 or 40 dollar one from tognar with bad results. Maybe its me, or maybe the things sucks (the orange handheld device for sides and base). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 works well to a point, however there are other tools that I don't like that have dials for the angles, I did not like those at all. the problem with all of them though if that you need short files and that they don't like the very coarse files. A ski coach from CBA turned me onto the exactor because its cheap, "good enough", does base edges and easy to use. the biggest thing is keeping the pegs clean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow|3oarder Posted December 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 do you guys go for that sharp feeling that comes with a donek from the factory, or is something duller ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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