Questions about the TD2 suspension kit

[utahcarver]

With the TD2 Suspension Kit, is there ANY added deflection to the combined assembly? If so, what stops the 6mm bolts from failing due to fatigue? If no, does the e-ring of the TD2 and the yellow squishy urethane donut-thingy in the Suspension Kit act solely as dampening?

Also, the spacer discs from the TD2 Suspension Kit make great coasters! Umm, no nix that, the holes allowed the condensation to get on my wife's coffee table. :(

Mark

[The Blitz]

The softer opaque E rings are considerably softer then the earlier translucent ones (probably better to ask Fin but my guess is 33% - 40% softer). The suspension kit itself is extremely soft as well.

Oke, thx for your reply.

If Fin can help us with stiffness of this new e-rings (I saw that kit supsension is 40A durometer)

[fin]

The original Yellow (soft) e-rings where about a 55A durometer and did have a translucent look to them. However, we found the "floating" system of the TD2 to be so effective we did lower it to about a 40A on current models.

Crave2carve is correct, if you run the Suspension Kit the E-ring firmness is not as important as if it where only being used by itself. The Suspension Kit uses a 3/16" (4.8mm) thick pad of 40A Urethane so if you where to run it with the Red (Hard) E-ring, the Suspension Kit will be doing most of the absorbing and deflection. However, if you did want the softest set-up possible, you can go yellow E-ring on the Suspension Kit, but the differences are going to be marginal.

Utahcarver, think of it this way, it is just an amplified version of the current floating Cant Disk the TD2s have always had. So yes, the lower assembly does deflect and it does deflect more (with the Suspension Kit) then the standard E-Ring alone. So the Suspension Kit is both dampening and deflection

[Guest Randy S.]

I just ordered my kit. I also called the local place I get metric screws. They have M6 20mm Stainless screws in stock. When my kit comes, I'll go by and pick up a set to make sure they work. If they do, I'll be happy to buy a bunch and ship them to folks that need the longer screws with hex heads, if you'd prefer that to philips screws.

Randy

[Mike T]

I just ordered my kit. I also called the local place I get metric screws. They have M6 20mm Stainless screws in stock. When my kit comes, I'll go by and pick up a set to make sure they work. If they do, I'll be happy to buy a bunch and ship them to folks that need the longer screws with hex heads, if you'd prefer that to philips screws.

I would recommend avoiding using screws w/ 4mm hex heads. They strip more easily than Phillips or Pozidrive at any klind of torque. I mount my Cateks (FR) with Bomber 12mm screws (5mm hex) because I got so tired of the 4mm heads stripping.

[Guest Randy S.]

I would recommend avoiding using screws w/ 4mm hex heads. They strip more easily than Phillips or Pozidrive at any klind of torque. I mount my Cateks (FR) with Bomber 12mm screws (5mm hex) because I got so tired of the 4mm heads stripping.

I assume they'll have 5mm heads. If not, I'll look elsewhere. I'll check when I go by the place. Hopefully I'll have a chance before I leave for the holidays. Otherwise I'll send Mark Andersen down there. He loves visiting the hotties that run the place. (Dykes on bikes with mullets - seriously, they're a hilarious couple)

[Mike T]

I assume they'll have 5mm heads. If not, I'll look elsewhere. I'll check when I go by the place. Hopefully I'll have a chance before I leave for the holidays. Otherwise I'll send Mark Andersen down there. He loves visiting the hotties that run the place. (Dykes on bikes with mullets - seriously, they're a hilarious couple)

If you get 5mm heads I will definitely take some - 25 would be a good number - just let me know how much and feel free to factor in a fair handling charge.

[fin]

Randy,

Just as Mike T said, it is not recommended to run M6 screws that use a 4mm Hex Head. We tried these originally on the first couple of test Suspension Kits and we had issue with the screws coming loose. You just cannot get a good torque with the small 4mm Hex Key (IMHO). This is why we have our screws custom made with the 5mm hex key socket (not standard on M6 flat head screws).

[Steve Dold]

Fin, roughly what torque were you shooting for? I've asked around as to how tight binding screws should be, and have never gotten any real answers.

Sometimes I wonder if I'm tightening them too tight, when I notice "base suck" or indentations in the slots in the plates. Then other times I get a binding loosening up and wonder if I'm not tightening them enough.

[Skully]

Fin,

Did you ever think about using "insert extensions" like the ones used for the Palmer Power Link risers, allowing you to use the current 5mm head hex screws with the suspension kits?

[fin]

Well, I really cannot quote a torque (damn legal system :( ) but if the mounting screws are coming loose then they are not tight enough. One trick you can do is ONLY grease the head of the bolt, NOT the threads that go into the board (bad for board). This will reduce the friction of the head into the binding and actually give you a tighter tension on that screw.

Skully: I have not seen one of those up close but I believe they are an extension of a sort for the insert so now you have essentially two screws per insert holding you down? Is this correct?

[Mike T]

Skully: I have not seen one of those up close but I believe they are an extension of a sort for the insert so now you have essentially two screws per insert holding you down? Is this correct?

Hope neither of you mind me answering first - that's correct. They are of course standard M6 screws whose head is itself M6 threaded, with a slot for a straight-edge screwdriver. You use a straight-edge screwdriver to mount the extensions, and then mount the bindings to the extensions with the PowerLink plates in place.

Mounting the bindings onto the extensions of course torques the extensions a little extra, and when removing the bindings, I found that half the time the extensions came out with the binding screw and it was darn near impossible to separate the bidning screw from the extension; the other half of the time the bidning screw unthreaded itself from the extension but the extension was so tight into the inserts that it took some cursing to get it out even with a 12" flathead screwdriver.

Not a perfect system by any means. I much prefer a single mounting bolt even without the nicety of 5mm allen wrench.

[Mark.Andersen]

I agree with Mike. The Palmer screw extensions really bothered me. #3 Philips heads are just fine with me.

[Skully]

Hope neither of you mind me answering first

Not a problem at all Mike...

I was busy poking around trying to find a photo of them, but you've explained them plenty well enough I believe.....

[nekdut]

I need some more screws. I strip at least one every time I swap bindings and it is getting annoying.

Is this the right part: 92010A428 from McMaster-Carr?

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/PSearch2.asp?reqTyp=parametric&act=PSearchStd&FAM=machine&FT_104=141&FT_110=286&FT_210=2855&FT_136=40008&FT_182=47457&FT_1349=51286&FT_118=52158&FT_1419=60358&FT_147=60652&FT_137=60708&FT_2025=89067&FT_108=98413&FT_754=98451&FT_1134=98496&FT_2678=116651&FT_518=125969&FT_2234=217983&FT_6146=249301&FT_379=252402&FT_2029=252409&FT_937=252522&FT_6378=254492&FT_6470=256773&context=itmLookup&sesnextrep=821244567358943&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=1032

[bobdea]

I need some more screws. I strip at least one every time I swap bindings and it is getting annoying.

Is this the right part: 92010A428 from McMaster-Carr?

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/PSearch2.asp?reqTyp=parametric&act=PSearchStd&FAM=machine&FT_104=141&FT_110=286&FT_210=2855&FT_136=40008&FT_182=47457&FT_1349=51286&FT_118=52158&FT_1419=60358&FT_147=60652&FT_137=60708&FT_2025=89067&FT_108=98413&FT_754=98451&FT_1134=98496&FT_2678=116651&FT_518=125969&FT_2234=217983&FT_6146=249301&FT_379=252402&FT_2029=252409&FT_937=252522&FT_6378=254492&FT_6470=256773&context=itmLookup&sesnextrep=821244567358943&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=1032

I think I have a baggie somewhere

email me and I'll see if I can find some, I have more than I'll ever use.

[fin]

nekdut: Good news, the TD3 uses a M6-20mm that we have custom made with the good'ol 5mm Hex head. So this is a great replacement for the Susension Kit for the TD2.

Not yet up on the website but you can call or e-mail Michelle or Laura and they can get you want you need.

Cheers,

[SEJ]

How about a suspension kit mounted on a Coiler PR. Inserts are 4mm below top of deck? Seems like almost all my boards use a different length. #3 phillips aren't that bad, and available anywhere. 4mm allens SUCK, as all Catek owners already know.

[nekdut]

nekdut: Good news, the TD3 uses a M6-20mm that we have custom made with the good'ol 5mm Hex head. So this is a great replacement for the Susension Kit for the TD2.

Not yet up on the website but you can call or e-mail Michelle or Laura and they can get you want you need.

Cheers,

Awesome news! Thank you Fin! I just emailed info@bomber and will probably pick up 36!

[bobdea]

How about a suspension kit mounted on a Coiler PR. Inserts are 4mm below top of deck? Seems like almost all my boards use a different length. #3 phillips aren't that bad, and available anywhere. 4mm allens SUCK, as all Catek owners already know.

how old is that coiler?

I have not had a issue getting my four full turns on any board.

[nekdut]

Okay, I'll ask one more annoying screw question.

How about part #92125A241 for mounting TD3s/TD2+susp kit on a classic Madd 158? These are 22mm long 4mm head M6 socket head screws.

Fin/Michelle: Do you guys offer a proper longer screw for the TD3?

[SEJ]

bobdea, have no idea of the year of the Coiler. Picked it up from nekdut last year. Board has seen a lot of time on the snow.

nekdut, 4mm allens strip just looking at them. Carry an easy-out with you.

[fin]

nekdut: sorry, no M6x22mm.

[nekdut]

Okay I picked up a sack of these:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#92125A241

And used them with TD3s/TD2+susp on my original Madds, and now I'm seeing a little insert dome. It isn't huge, but I definitely don't want to damage these precious boards. I am definitely going to back these screws out a little bit. Do I need to go with 21mm? Or is it going to be safe to use the standard 20mm?