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burton boiler


Scotty Pumpkins
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Hi, im new here, and just getting started. i bought a burton coil a few years back hoping to jump into the carving scene. I also bought a pair of burton race plates for it. the only problem is boots. I originally planned on using my very old ski boots, but they're not working out. Ive decided if im going to take the plunge, i might as well do this the right way. What's a good beginner hard boot? any difference between 3 and 4 buckle? any thoughts on the burton boiler? any help would be appreciated, im tired of looking at that board collect dust, and i want to dig some trenches!!

thanks

Scott

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Guest Pre School Rider

I've been in the Boiler only twice,for about 6 hrs. total.However,I was much more comfortable even in the previous-years model(that is taller) called the Shadow.The lowered cuff is a neat idea,but you don't get a good 'cradle' along the shin,you instead get 'shin-bang',just a little lower on the leg.It's not as bad as a stiff ski-boot type of shin-bang,but...The boot does flex O.K.,and feels freer in heelside turns.It's just not all that comfy,could be because there's not much meat down on that part of my leg. Anyhow,what I think you probably would be happier with would be the "Earth" model or the older Reactor,if you're stuck on Burton boots.Otherwise,go look at Raichle/DeeLuxe boots that have the 5-position Forward Lean.Those will offer flex adjustments far beyond what other companies provide.If you've got wide feet,well,then,yup,Burton/Dallbello/Head boots do fit better,and from what I gather,UPS fits wide feet well,too(my only 'UPS' boots were so old,they were pink/grey with Burton logos on them!).I've tried UPS boots(the Mach 5) several years ago,nice fit,Wider toe box,good buckles,etc,,But I didn't Ride in them.Having three buckles simply means you Cannot tighten the boot down,where four buckles,you Can,or if you wish,you Might Not depending on your wishes. That right there gives you room to grow into the boot setup,rather than limiting your options from the start.

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thanks for the reply. I had no idea that the boiler was not as tall as other boots were. Perhaps i should continue my search. Right now i'm riding Burton Driver's. They are pretty stiff, and i love them. My board is pretty soft though, and when i get over, it will occasionally come out from under me. I can get it over pretty far, but not as far as you guys do, which is what im really after. Thanks for the advice. ......one more question........cant plate.......i havent been able to figure out where it goes and how to attach it.

Scott

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Guest Pre School Rider

Cantplates are supposed to lift the rear foot's heel up while tipping the rear foot's big-toe down.This combined tilt and lift is 'canting',and it brings the rear knee in and forward,allowing a lower riding position without having the lower leg fight with the boot-cuff and cause dreaded shin-bang. The Burton cants historically fit under the rear binding.There have been quite a few versions over the years,and some were adjustable(the "Varicant")in angle,while the race model was 'invertable',switching from goofy to regular by flipping the outer plastic over.The racecants are marked with 'goofy/regular' and have centerline markings too.The round-disc type (with a circular 'raditor fin' design on top.)need to be trimmed along the sides to fit boards narrower than 21cm.There should be cupped holes for the cant-to-board mounting screws(varicant used roundhead screws,and were very difficult to get to the screws,as the upper plate had to be moved to get the screwdriver in there).The machined,threaded holes are for your binding's disc to mount to.Make sure your screws are long enough(four threads minimum!)but not too long(no holes into the board deck,please)to secure the binding to the cant.The big trouble with Burton cants has been the lower screws,the ones attatching the cant to the board,often loosen during aggressive ridnig,and are a pain in the arse to get to and re-tighten.Check 'em often,every other riding day at the least,and bring a screwdriver with you to the hill.Cant angles for Burton (varicant excluded)are fixed at 3.5*,7*,and 9* depending on the model of cant.The Varicant could go from flat all the way to 12*,and be rotated in 6* increments,so it fit almost anyone's tastes in angles,and I've seen them used under the front binding as a toe-lift/cant on some racer's boards. Unfortunately the Varicant,being made of two thin pieces of plastic,would self-destruct about two weeks after being installed. If canting is something you think you want,get on a pair of CATEK bindings.These can tilt like crazy,are readily adjustable,solid,tough,and once set-up right,comfy bindings.Not everyone needs cants,and personally,I believe that too much cant is bad,kinda like trying to stand on a barn roof-go too far,and you'll loose your balance. I ride with +- 3* of cant/heel lift at the rear most of the time,and toss in a tad of flat toe-lift up front.Again,it's a personal choice,as everyone moves a bit differently.You really won't 'know' it works until you ride on snow.However,you can kinda check it out by strapping the board,bindings,boots on in front of a full-length mirror,and doing a body alignment check.While 'carpet riding',tip the board up on edge(don't tip yourself over!) a bit,and see whether both knees can adjust your edge-tipping without creating a 'weird' torso alignment.If you use one leg predominantly,then you've got issues,and control on the hill will suffer.If both legs can work together,then things are good.

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